I’ve decided to give Miller Oil a try in the Spyder, but the other day I noticed this when I was shopping for a “winter oil” so I thought I’d give it a try in the few remaining weeks of summer. I’m a big Motul fan but using their synth 300V in my motor didn’t work out. This is ~$20/gal cheaper than the semi-synth Miller I’m going to try next spring 
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Did you get a discount for the beat-up can?
No. And I’m a little disappointed that my “Vintage Collector” tin was ruined. 
The weirdest thing is this: I hear my doorbell ring, I go out and the box is open. I guess one of my neighbors got it and figured he’d check it out. Lucky for me he didn’t need any 20/50.
i use motul 5w40 in my Por ......8100 Excess gen 2 ,,good stuff....
Me, too. I use it in all my other vehicles. So much so that buy it in the 20L jugs now. And I use the 300V in my Ducati, cause it’s free.
The weird thing is my Spyder loves the mineral gear lube. But it sounded like a box of rocks with the 300V.
@dlearl476 posted:No. And I’m a little disappointed that my “Vintage Collector” tin was ruined.
I'm sure a paintless dent remover can fix that.
You’re right. It will be good practice, too. 
I took a class in PDR back before Covid. The bad news? We spent all but one week of the semester doing plastic welding. The good news? I learned plastic welding.
But I learned enough PDR basics to get started. My goal is to remove all the ripples in my 968 fenders. The metal is so thing that if you look at it sideways, it leaves a mark. But I need a lot of practice before I jump into that.
maybe a big blast of air will straighten that can out
Speaking of oil, if any of you are using VR-1, Woot is having a special: 6qts/$19.95.
ran it in my british bikes,good stuff
I’d bet 90% of us ran GTX BITD. I know I did. Not just in my VWs, but in my Austin and Volvos as well.
IIRC, it was one of, if not the, first multi-viscosity oils on the market. It was a marketing no-brainer for Castrol to start making it again what with all the focus on ZDDP content and classic engines.
Before there was Brad Penn lubricants, there was Kendall Oil GT-1 as part of a whole raft of different Kendall Oil products. My Dad bought Kendall oils for his fleet of school buses and since we bought a lot of it, it arrived in 5 gallon metal cans (which were much easier to handle than 55 gallon drums). We would trade in the cans full of drain oil when new oil arrived and the drain oil was used elsewhere for drain oil heaters in garages (popular back then). The cans looked like this:
After my parents passed and I was cleaning out the shop to get the place ready to sell, I came across three of those old oil canisters in perfect shape and really considered keeping one, but it was big and I had no place to display it. Instead, I found a couple of old Kendall quart glass bottles with the pour spout on them, both mint CX. You can see one on top of the cabinets and to the right of the Speedster print and Carlisle print from Rich Drewek. Much easier to display!
I found some Castrol GTX 10-40 API-D cardboard cans in my Dad's basement. I promptly used it in a Spyder oil change. That old D-spec had the good stuff.
I remember my Dad and I picking up cases of Wolf's Head back in the 70s. I think it came from Pennsylvania crude. I sometimes miss those days.
I’d have used them for my drain oil. That’s what I use my empty 20L 8100 X-Cess jugs for.
I’ve often thought about buying one of those qt bottles for changes. But I’d probably drop and break it.
As it is, I use a 1L graduated cylinder to do my oil changes. The Spyder takes exactly 2.7L, which kind of sucks, because that makes a 5L jug just shy of two oil changes.
PS: I changed to the Motul Classic today. It “seemed” to run smoother right off the bat, but then it always “seems” to run smoother after an oil change. I’ll know more after I do my valves tomorrow.
More on a thread I’m going to start in Spyders.
