I know, Gordon, wrote the book on this. I would like to think I can add something to his discussion, based on what I found on my old CMC/Fiberfab speedster assembly and just started on the windshield and have printed out Gordon's six pages, so believe me, I am using his advice.
I do not trial and error to figure out angles or sizes. On my end support pieces, some idiot, who started and never got far on this speedster assembly, drilled mine with too big of holes for the oval head 10-24 machine screws to fit. I did not want to make it bigger, but had no choice. I ended up using the next smallest size, which was the metric 6mmX1.00 and the metric oval shaped machine screws fit better in the tapered holes on the supports, than the 1/4-20s I thought about using. So, the holes someone drilled were do big, I did not have to re-drill them, only put a 6X1.00 tap in the holes and that was that. I could not find the correct length oval machine screws so will cut them to length, as needed with a hack saw.
Next undertaking was with the angle and cutting the aluminum tube, which slides up and onto the corner supports. The assembly manual stated the angle was 30 degrees and when I measured mine, they were indeed, with a base at 30 degrees. To get the aluminum sleeve you put under the dash to match the angle of the corner support I just used my angle finder ( see photos) and cut the aluminum tubing as needed. I made the tubing longer than needed as I know once I have the glass installed and do the final fitting, I might need to shorten the aluminum tube spacer. On the washers, they call for one against the under side of the dash, around the corner support, then the alum. spacer, then another washer, then lock washer and finally 3/8 bolt. I used the suggested 3/8 diameter bolt and 1-1/4 inch long and I think that length will work for me.
On the body, found two different thicknesses where the corner support go into the body. That makes having the alum. tube spacer longer, so one can cut them as needed for the differences in the CMC body, I have. I wonder if new speedster bodies have closer numbers on the thickness of the body in those corner places.
The flat washer cannot be just any 3/8 inch diameter, as the part of the corner piece, with the angle will not allow the washer to ride against the bottom part of said corner support. I cut it larger and where it would lay against the underside of the body, matching the angle of the corner support, on top of the body. So, we have the support, the one modified and larger 3/8 flat washer, then the alum. spacer, cut to fit your fiberglass thickness, then a normal 3/8 diameter washer, lock washer , then bolt.
I know, a lot of detail on a small amount of parts, of he windshield installation. But, as Gordon pointed out, every thing you do, on the windshield install needs to match and be cut as needed for good results. I test fitted my glass in the upper frame and was happy that upper frame was the correct one, for my speedster. I drilled the 1/4 inch hole in the center of the upper windshield support. I am not fond of the location they suggest of three inches from the bottom of the glass, for the support rod to go through the body. I would think , having the support rod closer to the "edge" of the dash would offer a better support, so I will probably place it more away from the bottom of the glass. I have no upholstery going on the dash, maybe later on, so for now, I am trying to figure out the best way to support the glass windshield.
Here are some pictures and I you are doing your own ground up assembly, these are not shown in my assembly manual, so I hope this explains the details better in photos, than my words. The angle finder is really a neat item to have, if you are working around your home or changing the rear suspension on your Speedster, it is needed and low cost item. Note, see the degrees at 30 , as they stated in the manual. I guess other brands of body, might differ, but if you measure the angle on the corner support, there is no trial and error involved in finding out the angle to cut on the one end of the alum. spacer. That is my big point.
