Sorting out issues - working to get it to run right

I would give anything for a type 1 that works right.  Ok not anything cause if I did that I would have a type 4 Raby or subaru motor.  Mine is new and I am sorting...snap crackle pop seems to be the song I hear quite a bit.  They have to be tuned just right I guess...

These cars can be frustrating, especially when it comes to the fuel system.   It's not normal, but it seems to be happening more and more these days.  I'm not sure why, but I'm willing to bet it's the reason why we see so many low mileage speedster for sale. 

Another concern is there seems to be fewer and fewer mechanics who can, with any competency, work of these engines.

Being specific about your problem(s) will allow some of us to assist you more quickly....

You say the engine "snaps and snorts"... Is this at idle, during acceleration or when you deccelerate???....   The first two would indicate a lean condition caused by either improper jetting or a leaky gasket (either carb base or manifold to head.)  If it occurs only with decceleration, look at the exhaust system for loose flange nuts or bad gaskets....

If the car has only 6k+ miles on it, I would guess that the carbs were not set up properly to begin with....    That said, I can't see IM letting it out of the house in that condition....

Where's Danny P. when you need him.....OH yeah, Carlisle....

A valve job after 6k miles is not normal.  Was the engine all new parts or a rebuild?  Were heads especially, new or reconditioned?  What were compression readings?  I'd start looking for leaks in the intake system before getting a valve job. 

Since I wrote the initial post above, I went out and drove the car about 75 miles.  I didnt baby it!  I got it warmed up. Highway at 75 MPH sustained, curvy, windy country roads at 4000+ RPM.  I drove it like I was at Sears Point.

Al asked me where me in an earlier post where it dropped off - I couldnt find it.  It pulled well to 5500-6000 rpm before I shifted. In 4th gear around 4200 RPM, I was pushing 90 mph, and I was more concerned about other aspects than the engine.  Car is strong in the upper RPMs.

Leon - car snaps (misses?) at idle, but will snap on decel like most hipo cars will do.  I know the left from the carb up is good, it was done yesterday.

Wolfgang - the decreased compression (60# at one point) led my mechanic to consider a burned valve.  But the poor condition of the oil created new considerations.

Power is much improved. No lag, just need to smooth out the idle. Now I am wondering about ignition...

Ron,

I do want to say I have the utmost trust in my mechanic. He works on my 911S Track car and my Cayman.  They both run great.  For those of you in Northern California:

http://star-tech-european.com/

Looks like a good shop from their web page!  

I've had many VWs and Porsches with Webers, and especially with the Porsches running Webers as tuned and as synced as Ii could get the triple throat carbs, there was always an occasional pop up through a throat at idle. 

I've also had issues with VWs popping or snaping during idle and in general due to ignition issues, poorly gapped point, bad condensor, rotor, cap or wires.  I opted to go with a Pertronix SVDA distributor and high output coil, and can say that all of the ignition issues have been removed.  I am hessitant to pull off my single 34PICT3 carb that I've rebuilt and dialed in perfectly to idle and perform smoothly, because I know in doing so I will be introducing an element that (while adding a few more horses) will also have me on my knees quite a bit at the back of the car.

Sounds like your mechanic knows his stuff.  These cars need to be driven.  But sounds like a like carb issue that is amplifed by the cause of low compression (likely valves).

Best of luck, Grant

do you have a timing light?  what is it set at?

have you pulled the plugs?  what colour?

what are your engine and dual carb specs again (not sure if you said in a previous post)?

from what you described - it sounds like a combination of mixture and timing - both being a little off.

Mango,

I have not used a timing light on it.  It was the first thing my mechanic did when I took it in.  Electronics were right on.

Plugs were pulled and they looked bad.  New NGK plugs were gapped and installed. Oil looked horrid and was low and was changed out in favor of a high-zinc Lucas Hot Rod oil and new filter.

Previous owner noted that the engine is a fairly basic 90.5 bore X 78mm stroker crankshaft  2.0 liter VW boxer engine with a "Cheater" camshaft.  When they dialed everything in we had 2027 liters total. Dual Webers IDF 40's.

With one throttle bore per cylinder, camshaft timing is normally not too critical on an engine...  Some with high overlap cams and ratio rockers will still idle at 750 rpm. (or less) because you are simply tuning 4ea. one cylinder engines... I had a C.B. Perf 1915cc with a very warm cam that idled evenly and would pull 6500rpm with ease...  Carb problems always came down to dirty jets (#1) syncronization (#2) or loose mounting. (#3)....  Popping and snaping were never a problem after properly jetting the carbs for the  intended use....  Weber IDF 44's....

The exhaust system was a constant problem with the Spyder's OEM exhaust, but a Canadian good guy sold me his slightly used setup which gave better ground clearance and cured those problems....