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Sound deadening - is it worth it?

flatfourfanflatfourfan
Well this weekend I decided to install 3 sheets of a dynamat style deadening called IMIX, I purchase this from a local audio shop and honestly, I thought that I wasn't going to get any results and if I was, they'd be so small, it wouldn't justify the price. About $12 a 1m x 500mm sheet. (Enough to do one door)

Boy was I wrong, I just did the front by the footwells.

This was about halfway through the project.

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1543/speedy329ny0.jpg

Door done, front done, not the floor yet, but it goes up to that point.

HOLY CRAP............Best R390-00/ $36-00 that I have spent on my car so far. The front end is DEAD quiet, I used to have squeaks and rattles and a lot of scuttle noises when I'd drive the car, now it's silent, the noises from the door are also a thing of the past. I enjoyed driving her a whole lot more than I ever have in the past. You can tap the front kick panels and they make a nice solid thunk. I did from the top all the way down to where the heater channels would be on a beetle, I want to do the floor last. With carpet and insulation on, this thing should be great.

The plans call for the whole car to be deadened. Doors, floors, under the dash, behind the seats front and back, rear compartment, front storage area and even around the inside of the engine bay and deck lid. I reckon another 7-8 panels will see me done. But that will have to wait for the moment. Weight wise this IMIX is heavy. I think that I've added about 5-6 kg's weight to the car. But it's worth it as the car only weighed 720kg's to start off with.

How far have you guys gone???

Any advice?

1955 Kit Car Centre(Speedster)

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flatfourfanflatfourfan
Well this weekend I decided to install 3 sheets of a dynamat style deadening called IMIX, I purchase this from a local audio shop and honestly, I thought that I wasn't going to get any results and if I was, they'd be so small, it wouldn't justify the price. About $12 a 1m x 500mm sheet. (Enough to do one door)

Boy was I wrong, I just did the front by the footwells.

This was about halfway through the project.

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1543/speedy329ny0.jpg

Door done, front done, not the floor yet, but it goes up to that point.

HOLY CRAP............Best R390-00/ $36-00 that I have spent on my car so far. The front end is DEAD quiet, I used to have squeaks and rattles and a lot of scuttle noises when I'd drive the car, now it's silent, the noises from the door are also a thing of the past. I enjoyed driving her a whole lot more than I ever have in the past. You can tap the front kick panels and they make a nice solid thunk. I did from the top all the way down to where the heater channels would be on a beetle, I want to do the floor last. With carpet and insulation on, this thing should be great.

The plans call for the whole car to be deadened. Doors, floors, under the dash, behind the seats front and back, rear compartment, front storage area and even around the inside of the engine bay and deck lid. I reckon another 7-8 panels will see me done. But that will have to wait for the moment. Weight wise this IMIX is heavy. I think that I've added about 5-6 kg's weight to the car. But it's worth it as the car only weighed 720kg's to start off with.

How far have you guys gone???

Any advice?
Gordon NicholsGordon NicholsMassachusetts 1993 CMC Supporting Member
When I built my CMC, I used 7/16" thick shop floor rubber mat material. Put it inside the doors, up on the front bulkhead, on the rear firewall and under all of the carpet - even on the tunnel.

Seems to work well - I can hear my tires swooshing on the pavement, although they have to compete with the loud-ish exhaust note!

I think the whole thing cost something like $20 and I stuck it on with 3M Super 90 uphosltery adhesive.

I tried a dyna-mat-like-stuff (poor-man's Dynamat) on the inside of the engine cover, but didn't notice any difference.
Lane AndersonLane AndersonMt. Pleasant, SC Supporting Member
"loud-ish exhaust note" WHAT!?

Gordo, your car is the quietest Speedster I've ridden in. It's so refined that it feels more like a factory built than some of the factory builts I've experienced.

Re. the dyna-mat-like stuff: I used a product that is very much the same as Dyna Mat called Be-Quiet. It made the car seem more solid, and I hear few creaks and groans, but the engine is pretty loud. Of particular note is how much more solid the doors sound now. I've had several folks comment on them.
flatfourfanflatfourfan
Well I did a bit more last night with what I had left and I managed to get one door totally done as well as under the dash. Once I get my wifes car out of my hair and sorted, then I can start looking at getting another 10 sheets.

We get Dynamat here, but I can't justify spending $50 for a piddly small roll of the stuff that won't even do a door panel.

FM Former Member
Spend the money for the sound deadening material. We've been using pickup truck Rhino-Line (or equivalent) on a couple of cars. The difference is phenomenal. Steve's 911 cabriolet (with the liner in the tub) has less road noise than my 911 coupe. We also did this on the spyder - nice.

angela
Jack CrosbyJack CrosbyHot Springs, AR, VS RabyTypeIV

The sound deadening is a great idea---I especially liked the video ablve using the product "Quick Roof".

I am wondering if anyone has put sound deadening in a car that already had all the carpets in? I have a VS and the carpets are all glued down--is it feasable to pull 'em up and do the sound deadening then re-glue the carpets back in? If so, what is the best "stickum" anyone has tried? Thanks!---Jack
M mickey356
I used some stuff like that when I did my carpet the last time. I had a problem with the aluminum film peeling away after I'd glued the carpet to it. So essentially the carpet only adheres to the aluminum film which doesn't seem to have strong enough adhesion characteristics needed to keep the carpet fixed. (did that make sense?)

The problem was mainly on the floors. When I redo the interior this time I'll probably just do the rear fire wall area, the front area and the doors and just skip the floors.
FM Former Member
I'd say that sound deading would be a MUST HAVE on a coupe. But on open car, It's mostly just going to add weight.

BUT! If your in a colder climate and you have the top up a lot. It would help You, In that case,,Id also invest in a top liner kit to futher quiet the cab And hold in the heat, If you have any Heat?
FM Former Member
Porsche offered a a special padding kit that was a thermal layer and sound deadener that was like a cloth liner for the Cabrolet top.

It was usally hand stitched right into the inside surface of the onvertable top in 3 parts..and was hiddden by a finsh layer of top matrial.

I have been trying to find it for years it was usally a special order item to cutomers in very cold climates. It is the same stuff they used on the 1954 300 Benz SL convertable..

I also used Happis top materal on my speedster D top also a 300 SL material.. Just a few of the things I picked up here and there.. Henry was a BIG help. and my friend Haulm who owns a SL.. let me snoope..

It looks like 8mm thick black felt. Not as thick as that 1/2 inch carpet padding. but simular and softer. very pliable stuff

If you find anything close to it please let me know..
I'd be willig to try 5/16 felt padding But I have not been able to find that also..
P pauleric
Sound deadening is good. I downloaded a decibel meter onto my Iphone. Unfortunately it was after my install of the sound deadening otherwise i would have some real world numbers for y'all to see. I used to be able to hear stones hitting the wheel wells and the whining of the transmission gears. Now Really all I hear is what is coming out of the tailpipes, music to my ears!

http://picasaweb.google.com/paulericrich/InstallationOfSoundDampening#

Paul
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
Ziggy - The RAAMAudio link I posted also supplies:

Ensolite, a very durable, light weight, closed cell foam is the ideal sound absorbing material for automotive applications.

It's a black foam material about 1/8" thick - it would be ideal for insulating the top. It does not absorb water to become waterlog. It looks finished too. You can apply it with 3M spray adhesive. I can send you a hunk to look at.

They have a peel and stick version too.
FM Former Member
Ordnary carpet padding from Lowes as I understand it. It is certanly worth looking into.
That should work fine for the carpet.. I concer with Henry!

If you have ever dismantled a old roadster top you will find the felt paddingI speak of.

Now some restorers use a thinner jute carpet padding when they restore a 356 roaster. But that's not the correct stuff.. and youstill have to find and make a linner that matches the top fabric.

Unless you wanted a different color inside (at your discression)..
WOLFGANGWOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member
Jute and regular foam carpet padding is great if your Speedster is absolutely 100% water tight. They absorb water and hold it - great for mushrooms and black mold. Add German wool square weave carpet and it will smell like you raise wet Geman Shepards. You want rubber/asphalt soundening and/or closed cell foam (closed cell will not act like a sponge).

Jack - I bet your carpet is only glued around the edges and to F/R firewalls. Other is most likly just laying there so easy to add material to floor. With DynaMat you get the big blue advertizing logo on silver side of their products - it good for a few $ more per piece.
FM Former Member
I used eDead, I think it was the 80 mil version. Will have to check. My brother used the same brand on his 356a coupe. I purchased it off of Ebay.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php?cPath=1_24

I adhered the same wool carpeting back on top of the eDead everywhere except for the floor.I left out the carpet pad the car came with. the stuff is junk, holds water, dirt and everything else. its a mess. Now If the carpet a little wet i just pull it back and it dries out quickly no problem.

I did not do the entire inside of the door to save on weight. One piece down the middle was enough to dampen the door. Surprising how much more solid the door sounds and feels.
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