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Dyna Mat or similar does make a difference and a rectangular piece applied to the inside of the door makes for a solid thud when closing. It takes me about two hours to do the cabin area. ...you don't have to do a perfect job since the carpet covers it. Installing the carpet set can be difficult for the first timer and take up to 8 hours and you'll need three to four cans of 3M Super 90 spray adhesive Lowes...@ $14 each.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

I have used Dynamat several times on multiple vehicles; most of which were heavy, loud, muscle-car type builds.  It is an easy installation during the build process but it can be a time consuming PITA to do if the vehicle is already carpeted.  It does wonders for keeping the cabin relatively quiet in a high power build.

I've entertained adding Dynamat to my VS in the doors and floors.  I just don't know if the juice is worth the squeeze as there is a LOT of wind noise while driving and I've never had the top up but I imagine it cannot be terribly air-tight.

There is no question that sound deadening is a plus when you’re driving with the top up in an IM it really helps with the droning sound reduction and the doors go thud .  for that German sound that is if the door bar and everything in the door does not rattle.

In a coupe without it you really need ear plugs and or Tylenol or Advil whatever works for you but stuffed animal foam might be an issue in the door  with all the rain here.

Last edited by IaM-Ray

I had asked Greg about using Dynamat when I ordered my speedster back in March of 2021. He said if I provide it he would put it in for me. I bought the new lightweight Dynamat, sealing tape and the rollers to install and delivered them to Greg on one of my visits. I will let you know how it turns out when I get my speedster. I have used Dynamat in my builds in the past and think it make a worthwhile difference.

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A lot of how noisy or quiet a gearbox sounds has to do with how it's mounted in the car.

Rubber in the mounts isolates all that vibration from the car, but some mechanics favor hard mounts to keep things from moving - especially with a high-torque motor.

My tranny is bolted to the frame, and has the extra mid-mount, too, with no rubber anywhere, and yes, it's loud. Weddle gears in 3rd and 4th don't help any, but that's not the main source of the noise with hard mounts.

Not as bad as a race car, though:

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Re transaxles being 'noisy'- a VW transaxle with more hp behind it will always be noisier than one with a stock engine- you can do various things to keep everything in place during acceleration with more power, but these things were originally designed to handle only 40 hp.  They make more noise or 'howl' on deceleration with substantially more power and I've been told (by more than 1 person familiar with these things over the years) that it would take a complete re-design to change that.  And yes, how it's mounted in the car (any time you firm up the mounts and/or add more points of contact like a mid-mount or engine hanger there will be more noise) is a big factor and what gears are used (some aftermarket gears are not as nicely made as factory) makes a difference as well.  VW even went to finer toothed 3rd and 4th gears in the later years when the power was increased to 60 hp. for this very reason.

Last edited by ALB

Just remember sound deadening adds weight - weight sucks up horsepower!  Power to weight ratio.  The entire floor does not have to be covered - just sections where it might drum.  I have a '16 convertible Miata.  Mazda big claim was that it weighs less than the 1990 version.  They used zip sound deadening.  I probably over did it but it is quieter at highway speeds. I need to loose 25# to off set.

@WOLFGANG posted:

Just remember sound deadening adds weight - weight sucks up horsepower!  Power to weight ratio.  The entire floor does not have to be covered - just sections where it might drum.  I have a '16 convertible Miata.  Mazda big claim was that it weighs less than the 1990 version.  They used zip sound deadening.  I probably over did it but it is quieter at highway speeds. I need to loose 25# to off set.

Carnivore lifestyle will get your there... make no MisSteak

@550 Phil posted:

I’m willing to give up some performance to make the car more quiet and more comfortable. My Conv D is going to be my cruiser in Norfolk to do Shore Drive and Atlantic Blvd in Va Beach. Spyder will stay in the mountains. I plan on doing a 901 or 915 5-speed.  I imagine these aren’t anymore quiet than a type 1 4-speed since obviously they will be rebuilt trannys.



Sound deadening is a must IMO, Al is right as to type-I trannies howling on deceleration which is not my favourite but I do remember even more noise in 70's Chrylers or Rebel machine manual trannies.

Phil, I would think that if you could source out a tranny from a northern car or where the tranny is not as high a mileage unit you might get a better case and maybe a bit more integrity.  Just saying, but I am sure Carey can source something out for you.

@IaM-Ray posted:

I can't remember what power a 901 can handle but I know the 915 can handle more of it and the shift pattern is more modern and to my liking but heh, you get use to it.

My previous IM with the 2332 c.c. engine had the 901 shifter.  Other than the long 1 to 2 shift, it worked well.

My current IM has the 915 shifter.  Other than the slow 1-2 shift, it works well.

Porsche is/was not known for their transmissions...

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