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I had paper towel get sucked in one once.  Only caused engine to run hot though - so something stuck in there is possible. With engine off (duh)- have you reached in from back to check for debris  The fan can be removed without removing complete engine or shroud.  Fans can crack around the 36 mm mounting bolt due to being off balance at high revs or the nut can loosen.  You can get replacement high performance welded and balanced fans.  If the fan itself is ok and no debris - it could be hitting the shroud slightly.  Check to see if shroud is loose if not then the fan can be removed and the shims adjusted for clearance.

 

 

 

Sometimes these after market alternator pulleys crack and make noise. I would remove the fan belt and start the engine. If the noise goes away then it could be the alternator or fan or pulley (rotate the alternator by hand and see if it makes any noise), if the noise is still there look for something rubbing on the front pulley at the base of the tin or if could be internal. Also if may be the throw out bearing. Push the clutch in to see if the noise changes. 

Good Luck

Chasing noises can really take a toll on you. Check the basics.
Are the pullys tight
Belt tension.  I but a light smearing of white grease to lube the belt.
With the engine off. Reach behind the shroud and grab the fan. If there is any movenent the p ully or fan may be loose.after that look at manifolds
Heater boxes.
Header
It usually something simple

A ha! Now there's some information that may help diagnose problem.  Engine knock or "Pinging" is the metallic rattling sound an engine can make when accelerating.  It's cause by running lean, spark timing and/or high compression (could be from carbon build up). This pre-detonation can make your engine run hot and even burn a hole in a piston.  Modern cars are computer managed and don't have this rattling problem (reason you can run lower octane gas in a car designed for premium without it knocking).  

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGCcTw3j0fY

 

The issue of the fan having a crack raises some concern
I have been working on these cars more often and noticed that the manufactures have been using t he 356 generator pully which spins the fan at a higher speed. Which increases the air volume at lower rpms. I suggest you have a welded and balanced fan  instead of a stock one. Try to fine a oem german or factory replacement

Well, my fix was muuuch easier.  I tried revving the engine by myself but could not get to where I could hear the source of the tinging sound.  Finally asked my wife to get in the car and rev the engine while I hunted around for the sound.  After several revs I found the noise...the screw that holds the muffler inside my stinger had come loose and the muffler was moving out a bit and rattling.  A quick tightening with a Phillips screwdriver and problem fixed.  Phew, that was easy and a big relief!           

Alan's cure is the accepted one if you wish to save both the crankshaft and flywheel.  Find a really decent automotive machine shop and they should be able to handle it.

 

Or you can do what I did on a 36 hp engine in my first dune buggy:  I was in high school and had no money and the flywheel had loosened three times in two weeks, even after being torqued to well over 400 ft. lbs.

 

I just torqued up the gland nut (again) and then welded two opposite flats of the nut right to the flywheel.  That engine ended up in someone else's VW sedan when I went to a bigger engine and it ran for several more years.

If the dowell holes are loose in either the crankshaft or flywheel your best to start over. Some machine shops over the years would install larger dowels but then you end up with a custom one off set up. 

Most likely the gland nut came loose, or if the dowels were changed for different size it was not a tight fit.

the other issue could be cheap parts. Don't use any aftermarket empi or off brand gland nut and flywheel. The old factory stuff works fine in 80% of the applications. I have broken gland nuts when trying to torque them to specs. Several aftermarket flywheels are junk, soft and they flex.

if you have a good machine shop that knows vws this usually isn't a issue, but be aware and ask questions!

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