Spare Doesn't Fit

175 means 175 millimeters, or around 7" wide.

Usually it would be something like 175/65/15, the first numbers are the width, the second numbers are the aspect ratio and the third being the rim size.

Aspect ratio is the sidewall height. In this case, the sidewall is 65% of the width.

Well a more complete tire size would read something like P225/50R17 80H, but for yours:

Vehicle class: ommited, that means it is a European metric tire.

Tire width: 175mm.

Sidewall aspect ratio: ommitted, so it defaults to 82% of the tire width (=143.5mm sidewall height)

Tire construction: R = radial.

Rim diameter: 15 inches.

Load rating: 77 = 412 kg.

Speed rating: T = 118 mph.

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoSidewall.do

Options for a spare need to start with knowing the bolt pattern of your wheels.

Thanks.  It's a four bolt pattern, the VS is built on a 68 pan.

I know a few bug owners here that run Smart Car front tires on their lowered Beetles, they use them because of the low profile and they are thin..stock front 155/60-15 = 22.32" diameter. these should fit under your hood..

Simon, would I need a new wheel or can I put this Smart Car  tire on my existing rim?

Cole, contact VS.

They offer a spare kit for their new cars that consists of a narrow 15-inch rim that fits the four-bolt pattern and carries a 135R15 tire.

Thanks Mitch, this sounds like a simple solution, I'll call VS.

A new "donut" spare fit my 15" wheel just fine.  I insist on a spare and the new, smaller one allows the hood to close easily rather than letting out some air so it will close well. Mine was a 165 so no way a 175 is going to close and then re-open when you pull the release.  If you are stuck with that tire, let enough air out so the trunk easily closes and get an electric pump for when you need to reinflate it.

I have read cautions here about potential damage if a smaller tire is put on the rear with a standard sized one one on the opposite side of the rear.  OK to put it on the front then replace the one from the front with the flat rear tire.  Confusing?  Sorry.

Of course if a front tire goes flat, the donut spare can just replace it no problem.

At least that's my understanding.

All tire stores can sell you a 15" donut for a spare. That's the best solution besides going without and using a can of Fix A Flat which is a solution I don't care for.

Wide-5 guys have an option as well. I've got a sand-rail/drag-car 3-1/2" wide wide-5 AL wheel with a space-saver (donut) tire mounted. If that doesn't fit under the hood, nothing will.

A '68-72 Type 1 Bug came with 4" wide rims.  Believe '73 upped it to 4.5".  The size 4 L 15 is stamped on the OEM rims. So first ensure you have the narrower rim. The 4" rim may give you just the space you need.

The CMC build manual says to use a compact/temporary tire on a stock rim. They specify a T125/TOD15 tire on a 4.5" rim. These go cheap at a wrecking yard ($10-15) or check CraigsList.

Another alternative is to let the air out of the tire and buy a $15 12V air compressor to carry in car - great for beach toys too!

You'll cause excess wear to a limited slip diff with different sized wheels and you could potentially overheat a clutch-pack style LSD. A stock open differential won't really be affected though.

Does a 4" rim measure 4" wide, is that what the 4" means?

Yes, it's 4" where the tire seals to the rim (and inner measurement with the tire off the rim).  It is NOT a measurement to the outer edges of rim.  Simply easier to find where the rim is stamped with the width - usually on the back of the rim.  For example, it should have 4x15J (size) ET34 (offset) and 6/70 (date manf). It might even be on front under where the hub cap would normally be.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0SLpz3Fs4c

Thanks for that clarification, Justin.  I didn't understand the mechanics well enough to explain it.

Appears to be on front of VW rims (must be back for Porsche).

All this notwithstanding, you say the spare used to fit?

I'm not sure if it ever fit or not, the one I'm putting in now is the same wheel but not the same tire that came with the car.  

Today I purchased from Vintage Speedsters a 4.5X15 with a four bolt wheel and a 135/15 tire.  My tire guys (Big-O) could not find a 135/15 and so Kirk bought on in LA and is shipping it to me.

Thanks for the help everyone, I learned a lot and now will drive more comfortably knowing I have a spare (but with a lot less available space under the boot!)

I disagree with this statement.   Regardless if you have an open differential or a Limited Slip, unequal size tires will cause excessive wear.   The explanation regarding a Limited Slip Differential is correct but in regard to an open differential, tires of unequal diameter will cause the the spider gears inside the differential to continually spin around their axis.   When you're driving straight, the spider gears aren't rotating around their axis, when you go around a corner, the spyder gears sense that the outside wheel is traveling further and the inside wheel is traveling less, thus the spider gears rotate to compensate for the unequal movement of the wheels.    If you have two different diameter tires on the back with an open differential, the spider gears will think that your taking a corner and they will continually rotate thus causing more wear on the gears.   This happens because the smaller tire must spin faster than the other tire.  

Re: different tire diameters.

Putting this into context and perspective, if I get a flat and need to drive with a different size spare for 10-25 miles, is this really going to cause damage?

Bottom line (thanks, Larry)---don't put different size tires on the rear wheels.  Simple, eh?

The difference is an open diff is not resisting the resulting wheel speed differential via friction like a clutch-pack or torque biasing diff. Those frictional forces and hence wear are more than what the spinning gears in an open diff see.

It's of course a bad idea to have different sized wheels. I didn't intend to imply that it's ok long term, just that running a temporary spare is less detrimental to an open diff than an LSD. You'll be fine running a spare on an open diff for up to 50 miles to the nearest tire shop.

Here's a thought - why not do away the the spare entirely, and go with the new breed of emergency tire inflation/repair kits.  One such product is Slime.  This comes in a variety of forms, and the aerosol can type (Slime xxxxx Tire Quick Spair) has some good reviews on Amazon.  According to the product literature:

• Repairs punctures and inflates in seconds. Removes easily for patching
• New emergency formula. Operating temperature upper limit of 120 Degree Fahrenheit
• Tire sensor safe
• Great for slow leaks.

There are other products on the market, but some require that you remove the valve stem.  

This way you're not only saving ~20 lbs in weight, you're not also hassling with a jack on the side of the road when you can simply connect the can, inflate the tire and off you go.  This may not be a long-distance remedy, but it would certainly get you out of a bind quickly.

Just my thoughts. 

Cole, the bottom line is "NO" 10 or so miles isn't too much of a problem.  Go slow because the dynamics of the car will be different.  

Scott, that's what I've done for the last three years, carried a slime type kit that had a mini compressor. But I've heard to many stories about how that slime messes things up and in some instances even ruines tires.

Does anyone else have more info on this? I'm going on secondhand and thirdhand stories.

click this link and 'read all about it'    http://forums.pelicanparts.com...d-fix-flat-best.html

Thanks Larry . . .  Good read.  AAA does seem to be a good "tool" to carry!  Again, going on 2nd hand (not sure whether that would be right or left hand) knowledge, the reviews on Amazon for Slime state users were able to wash it out with just water and it did not affect tire pressure sensors like some other products.  I have also seen where some folks, to save space in the trunk, actually carry a somewhat deflated spare along with a small 12-volt compressor.  Seems this would be just adding one more piece of equipment.  But if Cole's critical issue was closing the lid, then maybe a slightly deflated spare and a small compressor tucked away somewhere else would solve the problem.

I used those old tire plugs on lots of tires in the '80s, including my own car, which I drove another 30,000 miles on at least. I'd like to see some data on why those plugs are now "illegal" in some places. I have never heard of one that was properly set (i.e., not in the sidewall) failing.

 I went back and re did the trunk floor in mine a made it more like a real 356  bought some fiberglass sheats 4x4 and move my battery  right behind the passanger head light  I GOT ROOM!  And I still have the patterns I made to do it. That's a 195 / 65 on a 6-1/2 inch rim.   A 205 will fit..

Barry-

I'm planning to redo my trunk this winter. I've got room for the spare I've got now, but I'd like to make a custom fuel tank that carries the bulk of the fuel lower in the car, and gives me more trunk space.

I'm wondering where I can get pre-made fiberglass sheets like you talked about. A quick google search reveals nothing. A link to something, or a reference to a store (etc.) would be great.

Stan,

Pending Barry's response, you might want to check with Syl Mathis . .   he has quite a bit of exerpience with composite work on his car and kayaks and may be able to lead you to a suitable supplier.

OldYeler's solution is perfect - expands trunk space and puts needed weight up front and down low where its needed. The tire becomes a crumple zone to and offers some crash protection.  You could probably use this FRP stuff from Home Depot and add layers of fiberglass cloth or mat to finish the job.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100389836?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051&N=5yc1vZbqo3&R=100389836#.UfkQI42shzt

I'd like to see a photo of the new battery location. I cannot imagine it.

I just got my new "skinny spare" into the car, I'm glad to have something!  It's a 4.5 wheel and a 135X15 tire.

But I'd love more trunk space!

Fiberglass sheets are available at Graingers, called FiberPlate.

http://www.grainger.com/Graing...=true&sst=subset

The sheet stock that Wolfgsng mentions up above is a derivative of PVC (I used some for a smooth table-top for one of my wife's quilting/sewing tables.  Side one is pebbley and side two is smooth.  I had a few pieces left over and found that fiberglass resin (at least the kind I was using from West Marine) didn't stick to it all that well.  You might be better off with the sheets Syl mentions just above.  PLUS, I believe West Marine sells FG sheet stock in some of their stores, too.

Home Depot (et al) FRP is not what I'm looking for. I'm looking for sheets of pure fiberglass sheet, preferably with a gel coat. Any schmo can buy untreated sheets and resin/hardener, but it won't be the same as a flat board made of the stuff.

We've got no marine stores, as the ocean is roughly 1500 miles away. Links to somebody other than Grainger (where I have an account, and with whom I have many issues) would be appreciated.

Stan:

Try Ozone, he does a lot of boat work and might have a lead for you.

OK, Bob-- I grew up here, and I've got no idea who that is. Point me in the right direction, brother.

 Or  Mc Masters Karr  where I got mine .. If you want  paper patterns to start off of?  I can trace you out a set like I did for Alan and you can transfer the back to card board at home    They still will vary a little from car to car. But I just tape in a patch here and there as I need to until they fit ,, then you can transfer that to your sheets..  and begin to fit stuff  with small dabs of resin and duct tape.