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Sort of irrelevant to you-all but here's an update (link goes to my blog) on my fender-stretch/wire wheel project. Started yesterday adapting Bridget's spare tire mount to the new wire hub. Got it easy, but I didn't like it. I wanted the spare to sit closer to the back of the car. 

And so on. Ended up spending all day today welding, grinding, cutting and burning my own foot. But it turned out pretty good.

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The fenders are stretched, glassed and one-coated with Fibrall. Next step is to neaten it up. I need to clean up underneath where some of the glass fibers are hanging, wipe it down with solvent and hit it with a little resin—or maybe a skim coat of Fibrall. On top it's down to bondo and paint. I bought a kit of old-school DeVilbis sprayers and need to test.

There's a little more glassing to do as well. A couple bits in the back where I cut a little more than needed for the engine installation, a couple stress cracks on the hood, my new, custom steering shaft cover. I'll post with progress soon.

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On the underside, sand or grind, and if you still need to build material, use cloth and resin (you're going for strength). Do you use a small roller to smooth it out and remove the extra resin?

Neat find with the spray guns- I still have a Devilbiss JGA 502. Two summers ago I painted a dune buggy for a friend; the first time I'd sprayed automotive paint (2 component urethane) in 25 years. Brought the gun out of hibernation and it worked like a champ. This isn't HVLP (high volume low pressure) or any other new technology; this is truly old school, and you need a compressor that can deliver a steady supply of air at 25-30lbs at the gun. I don't remember what cfm the gun needs. Al

PS- we need pics!

Ed - Research some before applying bondo to fiberglass.  I've read numerous articles that they don't behave well.  Some controversy in this link.

http://www.madmechanics.com/fo...ller-fiberglass.html

Here's recommendation - "First is Duraglass. We used it for everything that needed a big fill. It has fiberglass in it and makes a very strong bond. The second is called feather fill. It is basically spray bondo. It is a catalyzed filler spray and no matter how thick you spray it, it's rock hard in twenty minutes. The third is evercoat. It comes in a top glaze for those tiny imperfections. and the solids in it are very fine, so it isn't sandy and fills tiny specs well."

Wolfgang, I use "Bondo" like "Kleenex." I should have said "filler." Not sure yet which filler I will use. Probably one of the Evercoat Rage products or maybe the Upol flyweight filler, since it's going on over Upol Fibral. Most of the No-Bondo-Over-Glass concerns I've read have involve boat repairs.

Al: the repair seems strong. I glassed it from the top, 3 layers, and from the bottom about 4. I've got about 3/16-1/4 inch thickness on the repair, which is right about what the original glass is. No, I did not use a roller, just a little brush, and yes, I got a few air bubbles, which I sliced open on top and filled with the Fibral. Most of the glitches were around the steel spacers, so I want to make sure they're encased as tightly as possible.

I acetoned and sanded out the undersides of the fenders and it all looks good. Pretty sure it'll get another scrub and acetone and then a final skim with Fibral before I hit it with some sort of paint or undercoat or maybe Line-x bedliner to seal it up.

The tops of the fenders are ready for the filler, which will be followed by primer and paint. Gonna bondo the new spare tire carrier as well to mask my poopiehead welds before painting.

Like I said, I've got a few little 'glass chores to attend to before we get into the spray guns. 

 

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