Spark Plug #1 & 3 removal & perfered plug to purchase

Are yo able to get a socket over (onto) the plug?

They can be a bugger to reach sometimes. Maybe forget about looking at it and go by feel for now. Like Bill said, can you get a socket with a small extension at least onto the plug?  You may need to modify that extension for length and play with things. Making up a special wrench may be required. Muttering under your breath and even some cursing can help. If you get it out but drop it, a magnet on an extendable rod will help. When it's time to put the new plug in, a neat trick is to put a short length of rubber hose onto the top of the plug and use that as an extension to start screwing it in. Others may chime in and argue about the benefits or pitfalls of using antizieze on the plug threads. Not sure of the plugs recommended as I run a Soob. 

The back (front) plugs (1 and 3) are pretty hard to get to on a pan-based car (the engine compartment is quite a bit wider in an Intermeccanica). If you want to make yourself sick, look how much room is back there in a Karmann Ghia. If you want to feel better, there were a lot of cars in the 70s and 80s that needed the engine jacked off the motor-mounts to get to the plugs. That's small consolation, but there it is.

This is exhibit "A" in my book, "Why I Don't Like Reading Spark-Plugs for Tuning Purposes". Lots of plugs are just a pain to get out. You might have decent luck (depending on your exhaust) jacking the car up, taking the enclosing tin off, and getting at them from the bottom.

The type of plugs you should use will be determined by a number of things-- different heads have different drillings for spark-plugs, etc. So while there is a "stock" there isn't a "standard", since what heads you have will determine the family of spark-plug you'll need. I use 12 mm 3/4"-reach plugs with 043 VW castings, you could easily need something else. You'll need to take out the plugs to see what they are, and match them.

As far as brand, I like NGK.

Lucky, I feel your pain.  The rear plugs on my pan based IM are near impossible to get at.  I ended up cutting the enclosed tin off by the plugs, as Stan mentioned, to get the plugs out.  With the tin off the job was fairly easy.

I was even able, without any difficulty, to keep my CHT ring in place while I tightened my #3 plug. 

Try doing that from the engine bay.

As the posts above say, those are a pain to replace and if I remember correctly one side is harder than the other depending whether you are left or right handed. A friend of mine uses a universal joint type adapter (I believe it's from Craftsman). In my case I use the wheel lug tool included in the VW Mexico tool kit with the small steel bar that it includes. since my heads are CB044's they use the smaller plugs and I've installed Harley Davidson branded ones with a lot of success since they don't foul up. I've since been informed here that those are re-branded Champions (can't recall the exact number; you might try searching in here). I also use a little anti-seize compound on the threads. Everytime I need to do that work my whole body hurts for days afterwards due to the contortionism I need to practice to get my hand in there!

I just ordered a couple of these:

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/D...tor-access-panel.htm

those are marine deck hatch units, my wife sells them at west maring, 4",6" screw in ,push in/pry out,flat,dimond, white black,Ive used them for many years working on boats.they also have flat retecangular hatches in differsnt sizes,I got a big one for a buddy with a vw bus he put it above the motor so he could have axesess to the motor much easyer.

I also have the 14&12 mm plugs,you can get the bosch platninum for the 14mm with a 5/8 hex witch is much easyer then the 13/16.and I have some iridium autolights,ngk&champions for my 12mm heads,

Michael, those should do the trick.

+1 on NGK, I am with Stan on this one.

Sorry for the "radio silence".

Thank you for all your comments, I now understand it is not easy to change spark plugs. It has been easier to check & adjust the values than to change plugs !!!

On to types of plugs, NGK

Is that ???????????

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug  = $9.99 or

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug (BR6HIX) = $6.99 or

NGK Nickel Spark Plug (BR6HS) = $4.09

(above from Advanced Auto online)

Thank you

Changing plugs on motors with dual carburetors can be a challenge, depending on the car and the intake manifolds. For easier access, most spark plug sockets can be cut down 1/2" at the plug end; this will make it easier to get the socket onto the plug and past the manifold. If you see how the plug fits in the socket (how deep it sits), you'll see it can be done. Pull the rubber/foam gripper out and shorten it as well. You may even be able to round off the top of the socket a little for even more clearance.

 Instead of using a regular universal joint (which is long and bulky) on the socket to get around the intake manifold, a wobble joint http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=642329&group_ID=674830&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog will clear the manifold better. 

Hope this helps. Al   

 I took a scrap 13 mm hex shaped punch and ground a 3/8 square on the end to weld on the plug socket  on it it made a nice tool it's  a 4 inch long shaft + the socket

 I use a 13 m  swivel rachet wrench and slip it over the hex shaft to the sweet spot for clearance to  break tork and run the plugs in and out when changing them  Plenty of room for that puppy.. works perfect evry time

I wont use any thing but iridum or platinum in any thing of mine, including the lawnmowder.well thats not true my dirt bike wont hit a lick with them so it uses a std plug.the pulgs in my bug are many years old, the iridun plugh is my wifes honda element have over 110000 miles on them and looked great a few thousand miles ago.