Spark plug removal/twin carbs

It's tight but can be done without pulling the motor.

I haven't yet changed my plugs in >34k miles of driving, but it might be about time.  Not a job I'm looking forward to.  Luckily I've gotten pretty good at popping off the carbs, which clears up a lot of access space.  I guess I'll be doing some service soon before the Asheville trip next month.

I've done it frequently.

It's easier to do it while the engine is cool as the manifolds get pretty warm.

It's best to place the socket over the plug first then attach the ratchet. Sometimes a very short extension is needed or you can use a swivel joint.

Removing the carbs/manifolds is another way and it gives you a chance to check your manifold gaskets for wear but it does require removing the carburetor linkage. 

That usually involves a bit of adjusting of the carbs and linkage after reinstalling.

When reinstalling, I put the new plug back into the socket and carefully screw the plug back in until it's finger tight before I attach the ratchet to tighten it up. Be very careful not to cross-thread the plug while installing.

Remember to gap the new plugs and use anti-seize on them.

Look around for one of these   http://www.p914.com/p914-6_tools_plug.htm   An Allen wrench fits into the top knurled end and since the sparkplug socket is part of the wrench, when you go to remove a newly seated plug, everything  comes out at the same time.     Too many time, the plug socket detaches from the extension and it's no fun trying to get the socket loose from the plug in the cylinder head and below the sheet metal tin.

That is absolutely no fun at all.

I use an old straight rubber spark-plug boot, both to start the plug by hand, and to remove it once I've got it loose with the socket. I've gotten so I can do it pretty quickly, even with a hot engine-- but Intermeccanicas have a lot more room in the engine bay than a Vintage/JPS.

If I had kept the JPS, I would've cut access panels into the inner fenders to access the plugs through the wheel-wells. I'd have made patch-panels out of AL or sheetmetal, and attached them with thumb-screws or something like it. It's pretty tight back there.

Wus.

Apparently.

Then you have to jack the car up and remove the wheels...

Why yes, yes you would. I don't suppose that's too far outside of the average guy's skill-set. A floor-jack and an impact and it'd take, oh, two minutes, perhaps?

Larry---do you have one of those spark plug tools you would sell?

Jack, Unfortunately I don't have an extra plug wrench for sale.  This tool is very expensive especially if you try to purchase a "Genuine Porsche" wrench.   Reproductions are available but they're usually in the $40.00 range.   Another alternative is a long 13/16th socket:   SEE:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200392521_200392521?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Hand%20Tools-_-Sockets-_-255043&ci_sku=255043&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}

Would something like this work?  Hard to tell if there is enough length.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-HAND...xp=mtr#ht_500wt_1414

Access to #1&3 plugs on my Vintage with 44 Weber intakes is beyond my patience. Not only am I working blind with my hand wedged and trapped but there's no room to swing a ratchet even after I hacksawed most of the handle off one!...so using a 2 1/2" hole cutter I created a  circular 'porthole' through the wheel well opposite those plugs and superglued the screwed top of a Dole phenolic sliced peaches container (24.5oz) that has a 2 1/2" dia at the lip of the cap...perfect fit...simple, simple!!

hendrixtx    I think it's way too long.

Carl, it's against the law to use a Dole phenolic sliced Peach container, especially the one that holds 24.5 oz's    You should have used a 12.75 oz cranberry container !!!!

Larry, Illegal?. It won't be the first time I've bit my lip and stepped over that line...And when I find a 3 1/2" balony cutter I'm going to upgrade those portholes using a Milk-Bone 40oz. MaroSnacks Dog Treat phenolic container...then I'll be able to get my hand through the hole too... and still see what I'm doing, and I'll even have room to fiddle around with the back side of the Webers too!!

I should have mentioned that this creates a lot of fine abrasive talcum-like dust. In anticipation of this I wraped and taped the carbs up and vacuumed the entire engine compartment when finished.  

Thanks, Larry for the steer to the long spark plug tool.  I ordered one.  I got a giant torque wrench from Northern Tool for tightening my rear wheel nuts to like 155 ft lbs.  Not expensine either.  I'm no fan of supporting the Chinese but sometimes they are the only place to find something.

Iam not looking forward to changing my plugs because I have a CHT ring around the #3 plug and don't anticipate that will be easy (for me!).

Thanks for your help over the years.  There should be a "good guy" symbol under the names for folks who give so much help and advice to the folks here!  That's an idea for a new thread--various symbols for various attributes---like T.C. s forum prick one a while back.

I can think of a few good ones.  Anyway yours would have to be the "good guy" one.

Thanks again!  :-)

I'll second that about Larry. He has helped me more that he can imagine. When I look for answers to a question I have and he is listed in the discussion I know I'm going to find a good answer. 

Thanks guys,   Basically all  I know is this:  

The more you know, the more you know you don't know..

With that said, All I know is that I don't know anything

Larry---you sure couldn't prove that by me!

I had the bright idea of fogging my cyllinders as I was putting my car in winter storage the first time.  I learned what a pita it is to get to these.  The guy who was storing my car was an old VW guy and he told he that you have to hug the engine, meaning reach around the carbbwith both hands to seat the wrench and turn....it worked.

As a professional wrench I have used the "rubber hose trick" and have never (since using this trick) stripped a spark plug hole thread. Just use a 6 " piece of 3/8" i.d. hose,this helps to remove and really helps to install spark plugs. Simply break the plug loose,then spin it out with the rubber hose,EASY.

Wait till you have to pull an idle jet!

Dual intake manifolds make it difficult to access #1 & 3 plugs (some more than others, especially it the manifolds are shorter and have been welded for bigger ports), so a trick I got from Gene Berg is to take a spark plug socket and cut 1/2" off to make it shorter (pull the rubber holder out and shorten it too so the plug will go in deeper), use a 1" wobble extension (mine's from Mac tools- http://www.mactools.com/catalog/2011/index.html#/80/  and then a 3" extension on the ratchet. I find the wobble joint is shorter and has enough range of motion to clear the manifold, where a universal joint is longer, bulkier and will not clear. Those with tighter engine compartments may find it easier to take the air cleaner tops and filters off as well (and air cleaner bases if the linkage isn't attached).

Hope this helps. Al

PS- For those running IDF's there is an idle jet holder that uses a wrench instead of a screwdriver blade. I thought Aircooled.net carried it but I didn't see it. When I find it I'll post a link.

Hahhaha  My Speedster was a little tough to put plugs in but if you want to get a real test put a set in a Beetle w/ dual 44's , now that is tough !!!!!! I never did it to mine but the access panel idea works great for bugs . The rubber hose trick works great and as a pro like JBSilver I used it in the dealership ( Ford) that I worked in. Myself this is one of the reasons I liked a high output ignition system, rarely do I have to change plugs.  Mike McCarthy

Al,

I posted about the JayCee idle jet holders on another thread.

They're available at CB Performance. Worth every penny:

http://www.cbperformance.com/c...og.asp?ProductID=707

Mike- That's where I learned to do it; a bug with a 1750 (boy, does that date me! Let's see how many know what I'm talking about?) with 44's, an 009 and blue coil; no high energy ignition and it was my main transportation so it seemed like I was always changing plugs! And the rubber hose trick is good for getting them started.

TP (sorry, haven't caught your first name)- Those are the ones! Thanks for posting the link again. And whoever wrote that ad copy is right; it's way they should have been made from Weber.

Seems like everything Jack makes is well thought out . Mike