Skip to main content

Ever since I upgraded my 1915 engine to big valve CB 044 heads I always had a problem with spark plugs; it's a pity that Bosch doesn't manufacture spark plugs for the size needed on these heads. They always seem to work perfectly. On these heads I tried Densos and then NGK's. The car would run rough especially after storing for a while with both brands. Sometimes it would be working fine and all of a sudden would start making hissing sounds, smoking black and running rough, including at idle. On the suggestion of a mechanic/machinist friend (who ported the heads/manifolds and installed them along with all the other parts on the engine when we upgraded) I installed a set of Harley Davidson spark plugs; problem solved, forever. They are not cheap; they're US made and; as the saying goes: you get what you pay for. 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Maybe you are being oversold on the Harley Davidson "mystique".  I picked this up on the HD Forums board from a discussion on the 6R12:

So you should/could run the Champion RA8HC to save even more money, as that's what HD uses. Champion just rebadges them with the HD logo.


I use NGK DR6EA in my ported mini wedges without any issues.  The only reason I don't have D6EA is the local Auto Zone did not have them in stock at the time I was there to buy plugs, and the "resister" version of the plug is a non-issue for me.


Are you sure you don't have other issues that are making you run ultra rich and fouling your plugs?  (Perhaps the black smoke and hissing sounds might be a clue?)


Also, just how "big" are your big valves and how "ported" is your porting job?  You only have a 1915, you can easily go off the wrong end of bigger-is-not-better.

Last edited by RS-60 mark

Spark plug heat ranges are not interchangeable. Some makers get hotter the higher they go numerically, and some the opposite.

 

A NGK D6EA is a pretty hot plug, which is fine if you are running lower compression and a richer mixture. This is the normal state of tune for most ACVW Type 1s. A "hotter" plug keeps the electrode hot for longer after the spark event, which has the net effect of keeping the plugs from fouling.

 

Higher compression engines with mixtures closer to stoich (14.7:1, A:F) need colder plugs to keep the electrode from becoming the glow-plug, and turning the engine into a diesel. NGK plugs get colder the larger the numbers. The coldest plug you can readily find without spending $20/ea is about a 9-series heat range.

 

Generally speaking, you want a plug that is hot enough that it never fouls, and cold enough that it never starts pre-ignition. This is going to vary widely with carburetor mixture, total timing, dynamic compression, and general state of tune. There is no "one-size-fits-all" plug for an 044 head.

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×