Spark Plugs

Just a few questions that I hope someone can help me with.
1. What plugs seem to be the best for a VS 1776.
2. What is the recommended gap.

Currently I have a stock 2000 VS 1776 with duel Kadrons with SVDA distributor and timing set at 7.5. I pulled the plugs and they where covered in carbon. I had adjusted the carbs to AJ Simms specs on his website but they still ran rich. I am removing the balance tube to see if that might help, also adjusting the accelerator pump. Any other suggestions. Just recently set timing/adj valves. Thanks for input - MIke

I've never heard of a SVDA distributor, but try a Bosch 009. It's the most widely used distributor for VW motors. Most daily driven cars use Bosch W8AC plugs (about $1/ea) for normal heat range with the gap set at .024-.028 Removing the balance tubes between the carbs will cause erratic behavior at idle. Are all 4 plugs covered in carbon? Is it a moist/Black deposits rather than the normal light Tan deposit? I say moist because you're trying to correct the problem by modifying your accelerator pump (more/less fuel?)

Glen - Plugs 1 and 3 are covered with more carbon than 2 and 4 that's why I thought about removing the balance tube because possible too much fuel was going to 1 an 3. The carbon is not moist or does not smell of fuel; as for adjusting the accelerator pump I was thinking that maybe too much fuel was being delivered. The SVDA (vacumm advance)distributor is what AJ recommends with the Kads versas the 009.

Michael,
Just a thought. You claim there is a difference between the plugs 1/3 and 2/4. Since cylinders 1/2 and 3/4 are on the same side, is there a possibility that the problem is not carburation but rather ignition? I had a problem with my VS where plugs were vastly different in color and I had a single carb arrangement. It seems that the problem related to a bad distributor cap and, once corrected, the problem went away. I am a firm believer in replacing cap, rotor and plugs at 3K mile intervals. Let us know what you find.

Wish we could see a pic of the plugs in question. Most of the time, the #1 & #3 cylinders run the hottest due to the location of the oil cooler blocking the incoming cooling air. Have you considered upgrading to an electronic iginition versus the points/condenser set up? Very easy installation and very cost effective (under $50)
Another culprit could be your ignition timing. If you're currently using a cast aluminum pulley ($10-$25) the degree ring could possibly be giving you an incorrect reading.

Glen - The photo of the plugs setup just like they came out 1-2-3-4 can be viewed in files mdevane.

I'll let better eyes judge your plug burn from the picture and I couldn't tell if they were W8AC s for sure. This may seem silly, but before you replace the plugs after doing all that work... make sure you don't have bigger heads, like 044s, because you need a long reach plug there, like a W8CC. Use the resistor caps there too.

I echo Glenn's comments on getting a 009 Distributor and also load it with a Comp-u-fire. Also John mentioned the cap... I'd replace it as cheap as they are. Check your plug wire ends and caps too.

How many miles or hours did you have on those plugs? Are you getting smoke at the pipes or heavy residue?

Glenn thanks for that tip regarding pulleys.

Jim -Plugs are NGK BP5ES gapped at.025. I just recently replaced the heater boxes and exhaust system and thats when I noticed an unusual amount of carbon build up in the old system, that lead to checking the plugs. I know that its better to run rich but I feel that this might be too rich. I do get black smoke when I rev it but not at idle. I am running Pertronix ignition. Cap and plugs where replaced about 500 mikes ago.

Did you do anything besides the Petronix ignition? Is it the original Petronix or the newer Petronix II? I did the Petronix along with their plug wire set and hot coil, and based upon a post by George B. some time back increased the gap to .032. My plugs were evenly colored light tan, which I think is nominal. How is your gas mileage? With your black smoke when you rev it, if I understand you correctly, you may have a problem in the transition to mid-range which I am sure you can correct. If you fuel mileage is good you are probably OK there in the high speed jetting. If in doubt, one of the old standby tests is to get out on the highway and run about 70 for a stretch then get off at a rest stop going into neutral and shutting down the engine ASAP; This allows you to read the plugs pretty accurately under high speed conditions. I used this test to dial in a Mukuni (non stock) on my Harley Superglide. I made an adjustment (lean metering rod on this setup) and retested. The black smoke was gone and the plugs read fine.

Whatever you do, keep in mind that this may be an iterative process which may take a little time to work out, but I'm sure it's a solvable problem. Good luck.
John H.

Jim...
You've aroused my curiosity. My engine (came w/car) allegedly has a 2110 in it. The plugs were long reach with the bottom threads carbon covered. Made me think the reach was wrong ( fortunately, no hole in my favotire pistons) so I put standard reach plugs in it. I was assuming the long reach plugs would have a deeper threaded portion in the head to accomodate them. Correct? or am I fulla beans? I suspect the PO was sold a bill of goods on the engine he had installed....but I'm procrastinating in the tear down to find out.