Getting ready to put in new plugs. Looking for recommendations and rationales?? I have a 1600 with twin Webers and normal exhaust. No idea of miles or condition of engine, it runs well and starts easily. I will do compression when I change plugs.
Thanks,
JB Lewis
Grand Lake, Ok
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See what's in there now -there 1/2" reach and 3/4" reach plugs (plus new hi-perf heads take small plugs). You need to use same size plug. Be sure to do a valve adjustment too - and check timing.
Changing plugs was interesting enough, didn't do compression. Had Bosch wr8ac Russian plugs. They looked relatively good, cleaned them and put em back. Started easily and idled well. Test drive tomorrow.
Std 1/2" plugs (the new smaller plugs are 14mm). Can anyone comment on need for R (Resistor) plugs - the R in WR? I know they are for stopping radio interference when non-R plug wires are used. Are they less effective than non-R plugs or same spark?
I always put silver anti-seize compound on threads before I reinstall - to keep them from seizing to the soft aluminum threads in the heads.
Ad a conductive agent to your Anti siege compound to get better conductivity I have learned that helps it. I got something from 3M call their help line and talk to a specialist.
The silver is ok ..
But you can do soo much better
Wolfgang..... If you have any of the following, standard VW plug connectors with built in resistors, resistor wires, resistor rotor, or resistor cap, you don't need resistor plugs....
Any single resistive element in the "chain" will get the job done.... Just remember each of these items are available with or without the resistor feature.... A Volt/Ohm meter can save some grief here...
Never-Sieze (brand name) compound uses a nickel (sp?) compound which is highly conductive of both heat and electricity. Resistor plugs and non-resistor plugs have about the same "spark energy" when each is used with the correct combination of ignition components.... I personally run a resistor rotor, steel wires, non-resistor plugs and cap, along with non-resistor VW plug connectors....
Leon wrote: "I personally run a resistor rotor, steel wires, non-resistor plugs and cap, along with non-resistor VW plug connectors...."
and then, I run a non-resistor rotor and HEI cap, Taylor resistor (spiral-wound) wires and non-resistor (W8AP) plugs. Why this combo? Well, I kept blowing the resistor out of the rotor, leaving me dead. After a couple of rotor replacements ( I'm running over 50,000 volts on the coil secondary) I learned the hard way and ended up with this combo, which seems to work well.
As Leon said.....only one resistor component in the circuit will do the job.
I have been using "Never Sieze" on plugs since the '60's with good results. There used to be a copper version of it, but I haven't seen it for a long time - it was even better, but the silver version is OK.
I use a copper based Never seize on my stuff.
Here's some information from NGK on putting never seize on their spark plugs:
Bump for the other noobs. Thanks Ron. I just got my new NGK plugs and they are definitely the shiny nickel coated ones. I am going to forgo the anti-seize and just make sure they don't stay in too long. Now I need to find a deep 11/16" socket.
LTL- If you're working around dual intake manifolds-
1- make sure it's a spark plug socket, remove the rubber boot, cut 1/2" off the socket and rubber boot, and then put it back. Now it will go on deeper and there'll be less chance of hitting the manifold. You can even round the drive end a little bit for more clearance, if need be.
2- Instead of using a universal joint, get yourself a wobble joint; it will move enough and it's more compact, so there's less chance of hitting the intake manifold. With a 3" extension you'll be able to work around any manifolds.
3- Always store the spark plug socket and wobble joint in the same place in your tool box, so there's no hunting them down come plug changing time.
Hope this helps. Al
Thanks Al. WRT #1, I am not sure what you are saying. Do I need to find a 11/16 spark plug-specific socket so it has the black rubber, or will a deep 11/16 work? When you say cut 1/2 inch off of the socket and boot am I grinding the spark plug socket to be shorter and cutting the black rubber insert? I used to do plugs back in the day but they were accessible much more, and fit in a standard auto plug socket. Odd that I sold my Colt in 1981 or so, but still remember the plug number, NGK BPR6ES. I wish I could clear that memory for crap I did yesterday but can't recall. I bought the Speedster to take me back 30 years to do more tinkering. New cars with all of the computerized functions simply don't interest me. And yes I have dual carbs and CB heads.
BTW to be super anal this quote from NGK makes me thing they should only be installed and removed once. For $2.15 each it is not even worth cleaning them IMO.
"Metal shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from
Thanks Al. WRT #1, I am not sure what you are saying. Do I need to find a 11/16 spark plug-specific socket so it has the black rubber, or will a deep 11/16 work? When you say cut 1/2 inch off of the socket and boot am I grinding the spark plug socket to be shorter and cutting the black rubber insert? I used to do plugs back in the day but they were accessible much more, and fit in a standard auto plug socket....
It will work best if you have a spark plug socket; a regular deep socket doesn't have the rubber insert, which is what holds the plug in while maneuvering (both coming in and bringing it out); remember, you'll be removing and installing the 2 front plugs strictly by feel. And yes, you'll find it easiest if you remove 1/2" from the bottom of the socket (the rubber boot has to be shortened accordingly so it will go deeper into the socket); it makes it easier to work around the manifolds on the front plugs. You may not need to do this, but some manifolds are bulkier than others. It will all make sense once you've done a plug change. Al
I install plugs by slipping a short length of rubber hose on the insulator. Turn that with your fingers. Pretty much zero chance of cross-threading. I have bike plugs so I snug them up with an 18mm deep socket. We had a LONG thread on here about what plugs were in Lane's CB motor, so I'll sum it up:
Stock heads: Regular spark plug socket(13/16"??)
Modified heads from CB or anyone else with motorcycle plugs: 18mm deep socket
Both of my two sets of plug sockets have worn out the rubber inserts, so I use the piece of fuel hose like Danny (mostly because I'm too cheap to buy new sockets!)
Besides, whenever I tried to use a plug socket in the winter it wouldn't go on easily if the temps were below 25F (think snowmobiling, here) so got into the habit of using fuel hose to start them (or remove them after breaking them loose). I also thought Al's idea of a wobble joint extension was great - gives me another great reason to visit my friendly retired guys at Sears' tool department!
I have to admit, though, that I tend NOT to use a torque wrench when installing plugs. Spin them in til the washer hits, then another 1/8-1/4 turn and I'm good. I do it by feel. Probably not for everyone, especially with aluminum heads and steel plugs, but been doing it that way for a long time and I'm an "old dog".
BTW: I had forgotten that short NGK article - really good stuff, so I printed it and put it into my Speedstah book. Thank heavens that the plugs are kind-of "color coded" for whether to use anti-seize or not...
This is really odd. NGK's own site spec's the hex on this plug as 11/16" but I have both a box wrench and deep socket and it is too big for either. I know I can't use the box wrench but wanted a sanity check. It is listed as 17 1/2 mm so I guess I need the 18mm spark plug socket if made, or deep socket if not. I just got the appropriate rubber hose so I may just use that method. If you are using these plugs do not plan on using a 11/16 anything. This is what CB recommends for their heads.
Anyone use the E3 plugs?
...I also thought Al's idea of a wobble joint extension was great - gives me another great reason to visit my friendly retired guys at Sears' tool department!
Hadn't seen your post, Gordon. The wobble joint I have is Snap On (I think); I've never seen a Craftsman one. It's the ticket when a regular universal joint is just too big and bulky.
What's the difference?
One wobbles, the other one don't be wobbling! 
http://store.snapon.com/Extens...-1-1-2--P631543.aspx
Around the manifolds there isn't a lot of room; sometimes a universal joint is too big.
Sometimes just about anything is too big.
I got a 2-1/2" and a 6" extension (3/8" drive), both with a wobble end on them - didn't see the shorty you showed in the link, but that's cool, too.
So, Lane........it acts like a wicked short universal adapter in close spaces.
BTW: I think Carl Berry had the right idea with his little portholes (which Al Gallo copied, I might add) but I might get some that are 12" long and 4" high. Once I got my heat shields out of the car, getting at the manifold nuts with a short 11mm wrench was a piece of cake.
