Bruce,
The picture on John S's website looks like what I thought to be guards red. I looked at a color chip for signal red on der whites chart which is on the 356 registry and it looked more like a dark cherry red, almost approaching maroon. It was a rich color, if the chip was anywhere close to accurate. My problem with that color is that it looks too much like the color of our van. That's a distressing thought! I may wind up with torch red, which is also non-metallic and a real RED red. According to Steve (SAW), Charles Gardiner's IM is painted this color. It looked wonderful when I saw it in Knoxville. Oh well, I'm sure whatever I decide, it will look great.
John H.
John,
Re Torch Red, My neighbor has a Torch Red 99 Vette Rdstr. We haven't got together yet for a side by side but in MHO they are real close in color. Both are very bright! Guards may have a tad more Orange. Some months ago I got on a site for Porsce colors and the Signal Red/Guards Red for a few years of the 928,944 were definatly softer reds, lots more maroon in them. The 356's had a Ruby Red, that was a maroon Red, but isn't the eye catcher like the Signal Red. Jaguar also used a signal Red, looked the same as Porsches color. Why Porsche changed the formula and used the same name is strange! I think the name "Guards Red" is a real grabber, maybe that is why. I think I got into that site by using Yahoo or Goggle and using Signal or Guards red. Might try it and see what happens. It was fun looking!
Good luck, Bruce
Re Torch Red, My neighbor has a Torch Red 99 Vette Rdstr. We haven't got together yet for a side by side but in MHO they are real close in color. Both are very bright! Guards may have a tad more Orange. Some months ago I got on a site for Porsce colors and the Signal Red/Guards Red for a few years of the 928,944 were definatly softer reds, lots more maroon in them. The 356's had a Ruby Red, that was a maroon Red, but isn't the eye catcher like the Signal Red. Jaguar also used a signal Red, looked the same as Porsches color. Why Porsche changed the formula and used the same name is strange! I think the name "Guards Red" is a real grabber, maybe that is why. I think I got into that site by using Yahoo or Goggle and using Signal or Guards red. Might try it and see what happens. It was fun looking!
Good luck, Bruce
John,
Check out Arenas Red. It's a later Porsche color. More of a burguny and it is metallic.
Have fun,
Terry
Check out Arenas Red. It's a later Porsche color. More of a burguny and it is metallic.
Have fun,
Terry
Former Member
Many years ago I had a '61 Rag Top Beetle that I did a ground up rebuild on. The color I painted it was a 'Indian Red' which I have just learned is the same color code as Guards Red. Take a look at this austrailian site for some of the Porsche Red color codes, www.landsharkoz.com/htm/colourred.htm.
Former Member
John H, have you gotten the car from SAW yet?
Still waitin' but hopeful for this week. If I can stop driving it and looking at it, I will post a bunch of digi-pix and commentary after it arrives.
Come on, John. Since I've sold my IM I'm getting my thrills living vicariously through members such as you. Give us ALL the details.
Ron
Ron
Former Member
Hi all, I'm new to the whole speedster custom car world. I have always loved the 356 and found Steve's (SAW) site. Any word on the cabriolet having the same styling as the 1957 speester? Beck told me it was more like a 1960's style. I don't think this is the case, but just am looking for unbiased opinions. John H. I am excited to hear how the car comes out for you. I live in Minnesota and would be looking to use the car in the winter as well. I hope the car is weather tight, unlike the period speedsters. Any advice that can be shared in helping a real novice understand the market better would be appreciated. Oh, one more question...can anyone provide some thoughts on www.kitcar.com, Curt Scott, and Mike Cromwell? Curt Scott posted a consumer alert on his website, kitcar.com, by Mike C. The alert really tore into SAW and I asked Steve (SAW) about this and he said it was inaccurate. Your thoughts on my laundry list of questions are appreciated!!!!
Former Member
WOW.....you might want to try and use the search engine to get a little more historical background, but I have to say that I emailed Curt 3 times and he never bothered to answer even one of them. Let me tell you that for someone who brags on his "rules" of dealing with people and buying a kit car he doesn't seem to follow any of them. This tells me everything I need to know. While his intentions may be good I think they have a saying for the road to hell being paved with good intentions. I would venture to guess that every builder has had some disatisified customers or they haven't had very many customers. I seriously question the accuracy of his site, because he makes a big deal about how he can't find JPS and he makes there existence questionable because he can't seem to find them or that there always moving........well it took me about 5 minutes and one phone call to find them. Personally I would look at the site with great skepticism from what little I know and can verify just isn't true on his website. I do think in a time and place he may have done some great things, but most of it was in the pursuit of selling a book on how to buy kit cars. Generally speaking most of the speedsters bought are not even kits they are turnkey cars.
Former Member
As for your first question I am not sure, but I believe the basic body style of the SAW Cabriolet to be the T2. This is the same basic style all of the replicas are that I know of, except the flared or C version which has been changed to give more choices on the running gear and a little more aggressive modern look to a classic style. Where you will see the difference is in the windshield and the windows. Basically you have the speedster with a T2 body and the shorter rounded windshield and almost never has roll up windows (except IM offers this) and then you have the D model which is the T2 body with the straighter edges but aluminum around the glass and they have roll up windows (made by IM) and then the cabriolet which is still the same basic T2 body style but has a little taller appearing windshield with the painted frame around the windshield. Understand the Cabriolet is really all the looks with some changes that maybe didn't really exist in the originals, but the idea I believe was to produce a modern mechanical car with good weather protection and the original designed speedsters just didn't have that capability. Although the D model from IM is very nice and has much better weather handling capabilities then the original curved windows with side curtains.
Soon. The car is looking great, running great and is now going through a process to get the alignment perfected. When it's done, it's done.
jph
jph
Hello Andrew. The commentary on Steve and SAW was disturbing and I will store it away for future reference. My impression so far is that he is an honest and capable builder and employs skilled assemblers who are craftsmen. I will be very surprised if my opinion changes after I have taken delivery of the car, but will report accurately my impressions whether they are good or not. I do not anticipate that they will be other than very good.
The Cabriolet models, which were in continuous production since the 356 (pre 356A) model, continued through the end of the series with the 356C models. It had a few significant distinctives from both the Speedster and Convertible D. The windshield is actually part of the body and not attached to it. The layout of the dashboard is unlike either of the other models. The door line is level, unlike the door line of the Speedsters and Roadsters which is downward sloping towards the rear. The design, IMHO, sacrifices some of the grace and beauty of the Speedster in favor of weather tightness and visibility.
I'm psyched. Can't wait to take a drive!
John H.
The Cabriolet models, which were in continuous production since the 356 (pre 356A) model, continued through the end of the series with the 356C models. It had a few significant distinctives from both the Speedster and Convertible D. The windshield is actually part of the body and not attached to it. The layout of the dashboard is unlike either of the other models. The door line is level, unlike the door line of the Speedsters and Roadsters which is downward sloping towards the rear. The design, IMHO, sacrifices some of the grace and beauty of the Speedster in favor of weather tightness and visibility.
I'm psyched. Can't wait to take a drive!
John H.
Hello, Andrew:
This is an edited repeat of the email that I sent to you and will share it with the rest of the group. My relationship with Steve Lawing goes back about five years. At that time, I had received a replica of the 1959 Porsche 356A replica from Intermeccanica of Canada and was quite pleased. I was seeking an assembler of other replicas (specifically the 1953 Jaguar XK120 DHC) based on my research on available kitcars. When I read the 1999 alleged account of Mr. Lawing
This is an edited repeat of the email that I sent to you and will share it with the rest of the group. My relationship with Steve Lawing goes back about five years. At that time, I had received a replica of the 1959 Porsche 356A replica from Intermeccanica of Canada and was quite pleased. I was seeking an assembler of other replicas (specifically the 1953 Jaguar XK120 DHC) based on my research on available kitcars. When I read the 1999 alleged account of Mr. Lawing
Former Member
Nicely put Charles.... genuine positive comments are always better then negative ones like mine. I really shouldn't attack Curt, but I guess I don't feel Curt is really in a position to make some of the comments he makes.....people who have actually worked with businesses and report back are the best indicators of what it is like to deal with that business. Not the second hand information that Curt seems to always take at face value or tries to make conclusions based on limited information.
Former Member
Charles
Post some pics of the GTO and XK-120, nice collection.
Post some pics of the GTO and XK-120, nice collection.
Dick et al: Here is a recent picture of all three of the usual suspects posing together. They all get along surprisingly well.
Former Member
Sir Charles
Thanks for sending the pictures, They look great now that's what I call a stable of cars. My little speedster looks pretty sad all by itself. Thanks again for sending the pics, as I'm off the the 7/11 to get my LOTTO tickets as I'm green with envy.
Dick
Thanks for sending the pictures, They look great now that's what I call a stable of cars. My little speedster looks pretty sad all by itself. Thanks again for sending the pics, as I'm off the the 7/11 to get my LOTTO tickets as I'm green with envy.
Dick
Charles: The first thing I look at in a replica is the dash. The Jag dash looks outstanding! Are the gauges original? Very nicely done.
BD
BD
Charles,
Outstanding. I have the same cars in my house! Only differance is mine are scale models! 1/24 scale Danbury Mint Jag XK120, 1/24 1964 Joeff flat top GTO, 1/43 Speedster white metal kit, and a 1/1 JPS Speedster. You have 3 of 3 full scale, I've got some miles to make up to catch you.
Enjoy, by the way what engines do you have in the Jag and GTO?
Bruce
Outstanding. I have the same cars in my house! Only differance is mine are scale models! 1/24 scale Danbury Mint Jag XK120, 1/24 1964 Joeff flat top GTO, 1/43 Speedster white metal kit, and a 1/1 JPS Speedster. You have 3 of 3 full scale, I've got some miles to make up to catch you.
Enjoy, by the way what engines do you have in the Jag and GTO?
Bruce
The Jag was a conversion of a fiberglass XK120 OTS body and is based on a Jeep Cherokee power train (straight 6). The wood dash was constructed by SAW with Smith's electronic gauges, which were very difficult to calibrate with the Jeep electronics. The gauges are the same except the current Smith large gauges are half an inch smaller than the originals. The DHC has A/C but we chose not to activate the power steering. It uses the Jeep electronics. It goes like crazy but the narrow tires of the era don't feel like today's wide tires.
The GTO is mostly street rod with a regular Chevy 350 V8 and a 700R4 transmission (keep it simple). It too runs well and probably corners better than the 356. Since the original GTOs looked something like a NASCAR inside, we had to create a liveable interior using other F******* of the era. Quite a few real F****** nicknacks to round out the package. Also A/C and PS.
If one is going to build a model, I like the 1/1 scale ratio. Guess I just like replicas.
The GTO is mostly street rod with a regular Chevy 350 V8 and a 700R4 transmission (keep it simple). It too runs well and probably corners better than the 356. Since the original GTOs looked something like a NASCAR inside, we had to create a liveable interior using other F******* of the era. Quite a few real F****** nicknacks to round out the package. Also A/C and PS.
If one is going to build a model, I like the 1/1 scale ratio. Guess I just like replicas.
Former Member
John
I had Kelley 165s and they were terrible. Can't understand how a wider tire wouldn't handle better. My Dunlop 185s are great and I don't know if they are the best but I'll never go back. Bigger is Better! Its getting real hard to find a good tire under 185 I think my tire guy said Coker might have some 175 if you wanted that period look.
Dick
I had Kelley 165s and they were terrible. Can't understand how a wider tire wouldn't handle better. My Dunlop 185s are great and I don't know if they are the best but I'll never go back. Bigger is Better! Its getting real hard to find a good tire under 185 I think my tire guy said Coker might have some 175 if you wanted that period look.
Dick
John, quite a few members on this forum are running 185/65s with very good results. Would 185s rub front and back? What type, width, and offset of wheel are you using?
Ron
Ron
Back on topic guys. Sorry, I enjoyed seeing and hearing about Charles magnificent stable of vehicles also, but I just gotta update the thread on the SAW Cabriolet. I paid Steve a visit today and had my first drives in the car. Steve has been trying to sort out the suspension settings with an alternate tire option he offered me. This set off a series of events which has caused him to install a different rotor (11 1/2" and another 1/2" effective offset) and caliper on the front and make some adjustments to the alignment.
To make a long story shorter, I drove the car with the Continental CH95 tires (175 60 SR15) and the handling was unacceptable, bordering on frightening. After completing this test run, the Kelly tires (metric 165 SR15) were reinstalled, and voila, the car was great. Apparently, the difference was the tire diameter (22" vs. 25" Continental to Kelly respectively) which made a dramatic difference in the roll center. The car was squirrely, hard to keep tracking straight and exibited what Steve called from my description "bump steer."
I do not like Kelly tires particularly and need to find a tire probably not larger than 175, with a minimum diameter of about 24 1/2"
to have proper handling. Anybody have a suggestion???
It looks like Steve will have the car a little longer and I will probably be picking it up after I return from Illinois and Ohio. This will be around mid-June. At this point, I will post many pictures, much text and will throw a party at my house. Mike said he would bring the beer, didn't you Mike?
Justice through strength and courage. Out.
Captain Midnight
To make a long story shorter, I drove the car with the Continental CH95 tires (175 60 SR15) and the handling was unacceptable, bordering on frightening. After completing this test run, the Kelly tires (metric 165 SR15) were reinstalled, and voila, the car was great. Apparently, the difference was the tire diameter (22" vs. 25" Continental to Kelly respectively) which made a dramatic difference in the roll center. The car was squirrely, hard to keep tracking straight and exibited what Steve called from my description "bump steer."
I do not like Kelly tires particularly and need to find a tire probably not larger than 175, with a minimum diameter of about 24 1/2"
to have proper handling. Anybody have a suggestion???
It looks like Steve will have the car a little longer and I will probably be picking it up after I return from Illinois and Ohio. This will be around mid-June. At this point, I will post many pictures, much text and will throw a party at my house. Mike said he would bring the beer, didn't you Mike?
Justice through strength and courage. Out.
Captain Midnight
Ron, I just got off the phone with Steve and he seems to think a tire as large as 185 65 SR15 will work, but he wants to have at least a 24.5" outside diameter. The smaller diameter of the 175 60 SR15 apparently is what caused the problem as it affected the suspension geometry and resulted in the poor handling I experienced. The larger rotors which were installed effectively widened the track by 1"; One half inch spacers were considered and then rejected as an option. He will pick up and install another set of tires early next week and I will probably take another drive afterwards.
Dick, my understanding is that tire selection is a complex process for individual cars and bigger is not necessarily better. The real issue with the 175 60 SR15 tires was their smaller outside diameter, not their width. Changes in the roll center can happen when the tire diameter changes. I know this because I have just experienced the dramatic difference today in two successive tests.
John H.
Dick, my understanding is that tire selection is a complex process for individual cars and bigger is not necessarily better. The real issue with the 175 60 SR15 tires was their smaller outside diameter, not their width. Changes in the roll center can happen when the tire diameter changes. I know this because I have just experienced the dramatic difference today in two successive tests.
John H.
Former Member
John,
Dropping in here with an opinion. Try the Dunlop A2 Sport.. a High Perf all season that seems to have all the qualities I want in an all purpose performance tire. I think this tire might fit yout needs. Plus the price is right. I have the 185/65s x 15 and I think that is the smallest 15" you can get in the A2s. If you need the 175s I think maybe Pirelli sells something to fit in maybe the 4000 series?
Check out The Tire Rack for specs: www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=SP+Sport+A2
Jim
Dropping in here with an opinion. Try the Dunlop A2 Sport.. a High Perf all season that seems to have all the qualities I want in an all purpose performance tire. I think this tire might fit yout needs. Plus the price is right. I have the 185/65s x 15 and I think that is the smallest 15" you can get in the A2s. If you need the 175s I think maybe Pirelli sells something to fit in maybe the 4000 series?
Check out The Tire Rack for specs: www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=SP+Sport+A2
Jim
Jim, that's a tire a gave a close look to, but with an OD of only 22.9" it would not meet the criteria necessary to work with my suspension. The Kelly Metric (165 SR15) is the optimum size with an OD of approximately 25.5" unweighted. Steve wants to try some other brands using a 185 65 SR15, perhaps a Bridgestone or Goodrich. The Kelly is the fall back plan, but that tire compound is a little hard for spirited driving :-(
John H.
John H.
John, most 185/65s come with a diameter of around 24.5 inches, give or take a few tenths. I was going to recommend the Bridgestone RE950s, which I had on my car, but they're the same diameter as the A2s, which are also a great choice. I ran the Dunlops-195/70 x 14 for 3 years and loved them (yes, I had a strange, 14 inch mag on the car before I switched to 15 Porsche wheels). This is new to me...I thought that a smaller diameter tire would improve the handling, as it lowers the center of gravity.
Ron
Ron
Former Member
Will a 195/60-15 fit? They are 24" tall. Lots of selection at that size.
Ron
Ron
Former Member
One thing you have factor in is the performance of the tire they just don't make a High performance tire in the size that you what. But maybe that's not important. I'm with Jim Dunlop 185s .
RonL, I think 195's would be a bit too large and that a 60% aspect ratio tire would rub on hard turns. The choices are pretty good with the 185 65 R15s also. RonO, I don't think I could parrot back Steve's explanation of the reason for the smaller diameter tires effect on handling. He had an abundance of charts and text in his white papers which displayed graphically the effect of changing tire diameter on the geometry of the frame and the unequal length A arms and how it would move the roll center. Suffice it to say that the practicum, the test drives, spoke volumes. I, like you, would have trusted my intuition that the smaller diameter would have lowered the COG and have a positive effect on handling, but that was definitely not the case.
Dick, just to make myself clear, I do not want 165's or Kellys for that matter. I had this combo on my VS Speedster and was not particularly happy with the performance. In the 165 SR15, there are Kellys and at least one other brand that is probably hard to find. Ideally, I would like to find a 185 65 SR15 that is a premium grade tire, has a softer rubber compound (the hell with tire wear), will be stickey and perform well with my car's suspension. I will have an opportunity to evaluate the tires prior to delivery which is a nice perk when you live close to the builder.
John H.
John H.
Former Member
Everyone...I have been away for a couple of days and wow what a response...thank you all. Certainly I appreciate the exchange that is taking place on John's new new treasure. My concern in reading all of this is, for a novice, I wonder if I am getting in over my head on buying a vehicle of this sort. I love the car, but am not mechanical and would be looking for an everyday driver type of car. Sorry if my line of questioning is rather basic for the forum. Oh, one last point of clarification...in speaking with Steve (SAW) he did tell me the cabriolet on his website is actually an authentic Porsche as he did not have an SAW cabriolet to put out there at the time that he needed to post an image. He also explained that, conveniently enough, he was producing a cabriolet in the exact same colors (red outside with black interior). Once he finished he stated his intent to take pictures of the SAW cab. and replace the one on the website.
Hello Andrew. Steve mentioned to me that he was considering taking a picture of the new SAW Cabriolet and putting it head to head with the original. I think that's a pretty cool idea.
Also, this forum is for all levels of Speedster enthusiasts. It is easy for a newbie to be intimidated by the subject matter of the threads which are posted, but we all had to start somewhere. I have never visited a SIG (special interest group) that was as friendly and welcoming as this one is. I've learned a great deal and have occasionally shared what I have learned. Best of all, rivalries and flame wars are minimal and most of us can dish out and take some good natured ribbing; It's just plain fun.
Good luck with you future car.
John H.
aka: Cabrio Johnny
Also, this forum is for all levels of Speedster enthusiasts. It is easy for a newbie to be intimidated by the subject matter of the threads which are posted, but we all had to start somewhere. I have never visited a SIG (special interest group) that was as friendly and welcoming as this one is. I've learned a great deal and have occasionally shared what I have learned. Best of all, rivalries and flame wars are minimal and most of us can dish out and take some good natured ribbing; It's just plain fun.
Good luck with you future car.
John H.
aka: Cabrio Johnny
John, for a comprehensive list of 'performance' tires in the 185/65 x 15 size look at:
www.tiretrends.com/sizeSelectResult.php3
It's actually a mail order Canadian site. I'm sure that you can get any of these tires in the US, and I like the page display..easy to read.
Ron
www.tiretrends.com/sizeSelectResult.php3
It's actually a mail order Canadian site. I'm sure that you can get any of these tires in the US, and I like the page display..easy to read.
Ron
Thanks Ron, I'll have a look.
John H.
Well I looked. Gee Whiz, those Canadian dollar prices look pretty scarey. We have a couple of similar sites which I have visited, Tirerack.com and Tires.com. While Tirerack is the one I have visited the most often, Tires has this neat calculator with which you can supply two tire sizes and it provides generalized comparisons of both dimensions and speeds (ie. if your speedo reads 65mph with this size, it will read xx with this other size. Manufacturers products vary, but ball park figures are supplied. Pretty neat.
John H.
Well I looked. Gee Whiz, those Canadian dollar prices look pretty scarey. We have a couple of similar sites which I have visited, Tirerack.com and Tires.com. While Tirerack is the one I have visited the most often, Tires has this neat calculator with which you can supply two tire sizes and it provides generalized comparisons of both dimensions and speeds (ie. if your speedo reads 65mph with this size, it will read xx with this other size. Manufacturers products vary, but ball park figures are supplied. Pretty neat.
John, all Canadian prices are scary.
Ron
Ron
Ron, yea, I know. You sure are lucky to be raking in the big bucks so you can afford all that good stuff:-)
Former Member
I am confused here... not all that unusual for me.
I understand how tire sizes and brands are extremely important at racing speeds, but at normal driving speeds would two tire brands really make that much difference?, or could there still be some suspension/steering geometry issues that first need to be sorted out and which exaggerate the differences in tire construction.
As Jake frequently points out just because something on paper says it should work fine in the real world once in a while it doesn't.
I have full confidence in Steve getting everything perfectly dialed in, and certainly he has a lot riding on it, but I have been scratching my thinning hair wondering how tire brand "A" creates a spooky ride and brand "B" is dandy. I could see how one tire would create an average ride at racing speeds and another superior but at city drivng speeds it doesn't jive. It sounds like geometry issues, but what do I know...
I understand how tire sizes and brands are extremely important at racing speeds, but at normal driving speeds would two tire brands really make that much difference?, or could there still be some suspension/steering geometry issues that first need to be sorted out and which exaggerate the differences in tire construction.
As Jake frequently points out just because something on paper says it should work fine in the real world once in a while it doesn't.
I have full confidence in Steve getting everything perfectly dialed in, and certainly he has a lot riding on it, but I have been scratching my thinning hair wondering how tire brand "A" creates a spooky ride and brand "B" is dandy. I could see how one tire would create an average ride at racing speeds and another superior but at city drivng speeds it doesn't jive. It sounds like geometry issues, but what do I know...
Erik, I understand your confusion. Not being an engineer myself, I was certainly amazed at the difference in driving with two different sized tires on the same car holding all of the other variables constant. Believe me, it was real! From what I have gathered, Steve has designed his car and suspension to work well with a relatively high profile tire. When we tried out the tire with a 60% aspect ratio, a smaller diameter (about 22"), I discovered that this introduced all manner of unwanted handling characteristics into the drive. It was work to make the car track in a straight line and the steering response was unusual to say the least. If felt like there was a lag in the response followed by a sudden darting toward the desired direction. I found it to be very objectionable.
Steve thinks that if the selected tire has a diameter of 24.5" or greater, all should be well. He is engaged in a search for this tire today and, hopefully, in the next day or two, I will have an opportunity to try the new candidate out.
Much can be learned about tires by visiting Tirerack.com. You can select a tire size or year, make and model car and get the tires available. All tires are rated (5 stars = great like the movies) and most have independant testing and owner ratings. This was a great find for me personally; you might give it a try.
Steve thinks that if the selected tire has a diameter of 24.5" or greater, all should be well. He is engaged in a search for this tire today and, hopefully, in the next day or two, I will have an opportunity to try the new candidate out.
Much can be learned about tires by visiting Tirerack.com. You can select a tire size or year, make and model car and get the tires available. All tires are rated (5 stars = great like the movies) and most have independant testing and owner ratings. This was a great find for me personally; you might give it a try.
Former Member
John,
Not that anything is lacking in your response but I would like to hear what Steve has to say if he has a few minutes to post the engineering theory here.
Granted I am looking at it superficicually, but it still seems to me if the suspension and steering are dialed-in that baseline tires would perform "average" (neutral) while perfectly matched tires would be above-average. I can't envision how slow steering is the fault of the tire unless we are talking racing speeds.
Usually changing tire brands effects under-and-over steering all things being equal at speeds.
Steve is breaking new ground here so it will likely take some trial and error to find the right set-up and tire selection. Or you can do like they do in NASCAR racing and "put a couple of clicks in the rear wedge."
Not that anything is lacking in your response but I would like to hear what Steve has to say if he has a few minutes to post the engineering theory here.
Granted I am looking at it superficicually, but it still seems to me if the suspension and steering are dialed-in that baseline tires would perform "average" (neutral) while perfectly matched tires would be above-average. I can't envision how slow steering is the fault of the tire unless we are talking racing speeds.
Usually changing tire brands effects under-and-over steering all things being equal at speeds.
Steve is breaking new ground here so it will likely take some trial and error to find the right set-up and tire selection. Or you can do like they do in NASCAR racing and "put a couple of clicks in the rear wedge."