Speedo cable

Real simple. Remove the C-Clip from the speedo cable where it exits the hub cover and pull the cable out from the behind the rotor. Then pull from the speedo end through the firewall.

I highly recommend lubing your next one with this stuff before you install.


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Lane do you see the little square hole in the hubs dust cap? The cable has a c clip on the outside end. Yours may have popped off.

The wheel end of the cable is terminated in a square shaft, swaged onto the cable end.  THAT is what they're talking about, and it protrudes through a square hole and is held captive with the "C" clip on it.  Although, some cables just push the square-tipped end through the hub dust cap and put a small cotter pin through the tip end.  Whatever holds it in place.

You don't necessarily have to remove the Speedometer unit to get the cable out - usually you can unscrew the speedo-end lock-ring, pull the cable from the back of the speedo and then pull the whole cable out through whatever hole it goes through in the bulkhead and into the cockpit (being careful of any grommet in the front bulkhead).  Installation is the reverse.

Lubricating the cable is a good idea IF you can pull it out of the protective sheathing.  If the cable is captive and you can't get it out, just I've with it.

Gordon Nichols posted:

The wheel end of the cable is terminated in a square shaft, swaged onto the cable end.  THAT is what they're talking about, and it protrudes through a square hole and is held captive with the "C" clip on it.  Although, some cables just push the square-tipped end through the hub dust cap and put a small cotter pin through the tip end.  Whatever holds it in place.

You don't necessarily have to remove the Speedometer unit to get the cable out - usually you can unscrew the speedo-end lock-ring, pull the cable from the back of the speedo and then pull the whole cable out through whatever hole it goes through in the bulkhead and into the cockpit (being careful of any grommet in the front bulkhead).  Installation is the reverse.

Lubricating the cable is a good idea IF you can pull it out of the protective sheathing.  If the cable is captive and you can't get it out, just I've with it.

Nobody said anything about removing the speedo.  Just unscrew the cable.  The lube I'm proposing wicks extremely well and works whether you can remove the inner cable or not (which you probably can't in this scrnario).  You should really consider this stuff for your bike applications.

Tom:  The mountain bikers go for that Dri-Glide and a lot of them seem to like it.  It doesn't attract as much dust.  I'm now using a wet, teflon-based stuff that gets me over 3,000 miles out of a chain - by that time it has stretched about 1" and starts to skip.

That stuff should work well on a Speedo cable - might work well on a Speedo thong as well...

Gordon - You're saying the same oil I use on my bike would do this well?  That'd be great as I wouldn't have to buy anything for a single use.

Well...  After poking around a bit I have verified that the cable isn't completely broken.  I disconnected it from the back of the gauge and was able to spin the wheel while holding the gauge end of  the cable.  I spun one for one with the wheel, so I need to do a test drive to see if a) the problem has fixed itself, or b) the gauge itself is bad.  I did lube the cable while I had it disconnected.  We'll see.

Well it seems to be fixed.  A little lube and some attention did the trick, I guess.

"A little lube and some attention did the trick, I guess."

I wonder how many guys on here reread what they wrote after the time to edit expires and think, "I probably should have phrased that differently."? It's either that or the time I spent in my department's Vice Unit really messed me up.

Or sometimes maybe chose the more, um, "reinterpretable" statement to generate pithy retorts, hmmm?