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No one has the type of aluminum floor plate I would like to use, .......I'll keep looking.

Today I made minimal progress: replaced the Bowden tube that was wrong the size with the correct one, also needed to pull the trans I had just installed yesterday to have access to trim some of the metal clutch tube away that was too long.
Wrestled with the pedal assembly to get both the brake and clutch pedals in a straight line ( much pedal stop trial and error ) finished installing the gas tank.
Attached the column shaft to the new steering box, found that the box worm gear adjustment out of the box was way too tight...with no room what so ever to work, I cut a 6" x 6" access panel in the trunk to get at the box, made an aluminum panel and sprayed that with trunk matching black and gray splatter paint. Tomorrow and Monday I should make progress.
Dead.....
New gel battery was dead as a door nail today...&%#^ !
A quick search with a test light, I had wired the gauge power wrong (who me?)to the hot side of the main disconnect and it drained the battery.... ooops.
Thought I had one donor shift rod remaining in shop stock only came across a box of old cut off sections. Fabricated one good shift rod out of three, it's now installed along with a new bushing.
Estimate another 65 hours to go.
A shipping container will hold three adv. size vehicles provided they are loaded and blocked on a 35 degree angle.(it's done this way all the time)
Cost to ship per container is about $1,800 - $2300 usd from the west coast (Carson CA.) Then there is the high VAT tax approx. 38% plus of the actual cash declared value at the destination port, add to that off loading charges, local transport charges etc etc. In comparison, most of what I haul out to NJ for shipping usually goes to Holland, Belgium, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Afghanistan, Germany or Russia at about half of that cost per vehicle.
Anything from a Honda motorcycle, Hyundai Accent to high end MB.
....Toyota Camry and the Highlander, is some of the most desirable salvage vehicles.
Here in the US, a majority of crashed vehicles are totaled based on a percentage, a majority of the repair cost for repair falls into the labor end of things.
In perspective, many vehicles are not actually structually totaled but totaled by the labor excessive costs to repair. Hence into a container and on to onto a ship they go.
Interesting that motorcycles are now almost always totaled with slight damage..I'm talking anything worse than it falling over in a Wal Mart parking lot. At IAA Auction in WV, I just looked at an '07 Honda VSX 600 a beautiful mid size bike with scraped side pipes, broken speedo bent handles bars and a cracked chrome side cover......totaled !
This will go through the auction and sell for about $1,200 but by the time you add buyers fees and all the other auction related fees the prices jumps to nearly $1,800 and you still need to fix the bike for say another $1,000 then get the title flipped from Salvage to Reconstructed you're now approaching an investment of $3,000. You can buy a like clean Honda on eBay for $3,500.
It's amazing to see a huge amount of totals, some are near new with minimal damage while others you wonder WTF happened. The bad ones are not something that you would want me to discribe (or make it onto my big truck) those, get quietly burned.


OK now back to my build thread....
OT .. My was curious how easy it was to ship a car ie paper work. Recently there have been a increase in vintage hot rod thiefs all over the US. Only a few been recovered. I did hear there is a big market for US hot rods overseas. A while back I had a gentleman from Bulgaria approach me asking to purchase car Speedy . He asked for my address so he could come over to discuss the offer . I wasn't interested . He was very persistant and try to follow me home. I left him in the a cloud of dust.

Trust no one from Bulgaria.

Back to your build.

There is a lengthly customs process in place, but like everything else, where there's a will, there's a way. The stuff I see getting crammed inside vehicles (flat screens, parts etc) going into containers is amazing. Some exporters are a stickler for title etc while most others don't care if there is any supporting documentation and mostof these types deal in cash only.
Did you know that currently, only 14% of all in bound shipping containers are actually scanned for explosives... Makes you feel safe eh?
Finished connecting the motor cables and lines, came up short on high pressure cooler hose that I'll get tomorrow. Did the seat belts, heat cables and heat tubes from the heater boxes to the frame horns are done. Fit the new polished aluminum wheels and Kumo tires, I have adjustable rear torsion arms so I can raise it a bit for clearance.
Approx: another 42 hours or so until it's drivable.
Getting close to where #23 may just make it to Carlisle.

Today: finished the misc. on motor, make black aluminum motor to body panels, added the H' seal, deck lid installed and small LED third brake lights wired, seats are in, hood installed, that took care of a 13 hr shop day.

Tomorrow: Need to bleed brakes, set 1/8" toe in and fire the motor.

Waiting on the upper windshield frame from VS, then install the windshield, mirrors, top boot, make side curtains. A final safety check i.e. check every nut, bolt,line and wire. Hope to put some test miles on it before Carlisle or I'll have to trailer it.
Fit a stainless steel Miata roll bar if I have and time to spare.
CU at Carlisle.
I think I got it, finally. The new muffler was a tad bigger than the hide-away and the trouble was getting the muffler mounted rearward enough for caliper to muffler clearance. I musta jacked up the swing arm ten times to check it. The rear disc brake caliper return spring and bleeder really stick out on the inboard side and you really have to be careful it clears thru it's full travel up and down. Now I gotta figure out what I wanna do for the tail pipe exit. Supposed to be nice(finally) next week, so I'll get to give it a good run in.

~WB
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