Speedster build progress

My CMC gas tank is exactly 180 degree off from yours.  You sure you have it mounted correctly. I have the large capacity 12.5 gallon gas tank from CIP1.

My engine sits 4"* inches lower than yours - I'm using the OEM 1971 dog house shroud. (Photo is of an IM engine bay but mine looks same).

wolfs right, that gas will spilling out  the filler

@Nadodave- If your fan shroud is so high it's bumping up against the lid (it looks like the carb linkage and maybe even air filters will be too) something is not right.  The 36 hp style round shroud may sit a little higher overall than the later sheet metal, but it's not that much.  As you said- get the rear sitting so the doors fit right and see where you are then.  Al

And if you later need a lower fan shroud, the '71 - '79-ish is a flat-top design and about 1-1/2" - 2" lower.  It also uses a wider fan and a bigger oil cooling tower.

@WOLFGANG, the tank is not rotated 180 degrees. The filler is in a different location.

To me, it looks like this particular Speedster body is "channeled" like a hot rod, the entire body is sitting lower on the chassis than normal by 3-4 inches.

Thanks for the input.  I'm a newbie, so all advice is appreciated.

1) I am pretty sure I modified and mounted the gas tank per the CMC manual, but I will double check.

2) I think when bolted to the rear subframe, the body will sit about 2" higher than the pictures show.  It is possible the body could is "channeled", not sure.  I am going to change the fan shroud for the recommended 71 shroud (which I just found).  That's  annoying because I bought the non-heater shroud specifically.  The carb linkage may be problematic and the air filters will have to change to something lower profile for sure.

I think my plan is to continue the door mounting head trauma so I can confirm the door gaps when securing the rear portion of the body.  Sure would have liked having either a template for the door install or having them come installed on the body as the CMC cars apparently did.

Question: Has anybody seen a type 4 installation in a Speedster?  I have a nice 2.0 type 4 engine I might want to swap in later if it is feasible.

Thanks again.

@Nadodave wrote: “1) I am pretty sure I modified and mounted the gas tank per the CMC manual, but I will double check.”

Well, the good news is that you installed the tank in the proper orientation ( it actually can only go in there one way, anyway).  I just checked mine and that angled corner on the front driver side is in the same spot on yours and mine.  

The bad news is that the filler needs to go to the opposite diagonal corner which puts it at the top of the tank, not the bottom.  The filler should be on the flat spot in the top corner of the passenger side.  If you pull the tank and take it to a radiator shop they should be able to move the filler to the right location AND weld a circular disk over the hole at the front driver side of the tank.

Take the tank to the radiator shop and get a quote AFTER you price a new tank from someplace for a ‘69 - ‘70 VW sedan ( like CIP1.com )  The price to move the neck might be more than a new tank!

A new tank might still need to be modified to shorten the filler neck.

Welders don't like welding gas tanks with fumes in them - BOOM.  It can be done filling tank with inert gas (CO2) .  The high capacity tank I used is $125 plus the cap unique to tank.  I didn't have to modify anything and trunk lid closes.

I have 2 914 engines and the bus flywheel that is needed.  You can convert to Raby DTM up right cooling, joe Cali upright using T1/T4 cooling bits (there is abook available) or leave it the was it is - flat pancake pooling.  Here picture I found of the flat engine in a Speedster replica.

So, on the tank.  It was a brand new tank that according to the CMC manual had to be modified to move the filler to the front on the driver's side.  And you are correct, the radiator shop wasn't wild about doing the job even with an unused tank.  I will see if I read the book wrong.

For Wolfgang...thanks!  I think the 2.0 type 4 will be a big improvement over the 1.6 dual port, but I plan to wait until everything else is done and it's a driver before making the switch.

The filler would be front on the driver's side as installed in a VW.

Your Speedster would have it on the rear on the passenger side when the tank is rotated 180 degrees.

No welding method: I install the tank with the filler neck at the upper left near the windshield. Cut the filler neck 3/4" above the new tank's surface, take that cut off filler section to the auto parts store,  get an exhaust adapter that allows the filler to be placed inside the adapter and pick up some JB Kwik Weld.  Cut the adapter in half, clean and JB Weld that into the 3/4"  section on the tank and allow that to set up for an hour. While that sets up,  install a small ID vent tube into the cap end of the filler neck. JB Weld the cap end filler neck the the other half of the exhaust adapter.  All you need for the actual vent is a very small opening to equalize the tank vent pressure ,  I remove the pin from a pop rivet and place the hollow rivet into the hose near the filer vent nipple to restrict any sloshing gas from escaping but it still allows for a small amount of air for venting.

I have a Type 4 in it. Converted to upright cooling. If the original cooling fits, I would use it, as it will probably work better then any aftermarket solution. I made my own shroud, with some strategically placed vanes, and trust it will be sufficient for my (mild) 1911. I do like the looks though.

Fan shroud clearance issue:  I spent a couple of hours working on pulling the rounded fan shroud and installing the stock ‘71 shroud.  Because of the doghouse cooler, I had to pull the engine back to get the shroud off.  With the rear of the body about where it should be (based on door gaps) I am still at least an inch short on clearance for the engine cover.  Frustrating.  I may have to go with on of the shorty fan shrouds.  

Could be a few things: Transmission mount issue, bent frame horns ( damaged or internal rust ) or  the chassis was not welded back together perfectly horizontal and the rear of the chassis has a few degrees upward angle.  I ran into this twice with projects I bought, I cut out a section under the deck lid and re-glassed it for additional clearance. If the engine is out it's easy to measure.

Thanks. It could be a rookie mistake when I shortened the chassis. Sigh.
Going to try what Jbugs calls a Ram Air shroud and remote cooler. Fingers
crossed.

On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 2:54 PM SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@crowdstack.com>
wrote:

Looking at the kitman subframe I notice that it is definately different to the one I have. My kit (356-speedster in the Netherlands) has double tubes at the sill. The lower one is horizontal, just like yours. Then there is one above that, which is angled upwards to the back. The sills of the body rest on this upper tube, and this determines the height of the rear. If your sills are resting on that horizontal tube, I'm not surprised the rear is so low. I would look into body position before changing cooling shroud.

picture for reference

Where did your firewall go?  I've seen TR2/3 hood/trunk hinges used.  They don't look bad and would be easy fix.

@WOLFGANG-- Neat idea with the Triumph hood/trunk hinges. Do you have any pictures of Speedsters with them mounted?

Moss Motors has some for TR250s/TR6s for $25. That's hard to say no to.

@Stan Galat, I have seen photos of them here on the website. I don't know if you could find them with a search.

These are the marine hinges available from Amazon and others.  Think Emory did custom version of these on a rat rod - maybe this one?

Hey NadoDave

I feel your pain, bro. My CMC speedster had a rear lid that hit the fan shroud, and it was an ugly problem. I got myself a Puma fan shroud (The Samba classifieds) and had custom stainless steel hinge brackets made. They are plenty strong.

I even had to droop my expensive Taiwanese muffler to fit properly. PITA!

I like your custom hinges.  Might be just the incentive I need to get a TIG welder . In the meantime, I made some brackets to attach to the deck lid for the hinges to bolt to.  I also decided to go with what Jbugs calls a "Ram Air Fan Shroud". There may still be some interference in the center, but there will be far more room for the hinges.  Is the box mounted to your firewall some sort of breather device?  Love the color or your car.

@Marcel posted:

Looking at the kitman subframe I notice that it is definately different to the one I have. My kit (356-speedster in the Netherlands) has double tubes at the sill. The lower one is horizontal, just like yours. Then there is one above that, which is angled upwards to the back. The sills of the body rest on this upper tube, and this determines the height of the rear. If your sills are resting on that horizontal tube, I'm not surprised the rear is so low. I would look into body position before changing cooling shroud.

picture for reference

Thanks.  I now realize that shortening my frame may not have been the best choice.  I should have purchased the custom frame for sure.