Speedster C update and clutch question.

Here's a pic of my new C. Added fuel pump, master cylinder, fuse block, fixed some wiring problems, and replaced hydraulic park switch.
Still need brake pads, seat belts and engine tins before I and get it inspected and registered. Also need to replace the new 21 year old tires. And of course, different wheels.

I'm having a lot of wheel hopping in 1st gear (pulling out), mostly on inclines. The engine, trans, and clutch have a total of 7 miles on them. Trans is street performance. Is it possible that the car sitting for 21 years might have an effect in the clutch? Is there any other possible problem to look for? Appriciate any help.

I wouldn't be surprised if you're getting some clutch judder from some contamination on the flywheel. Either rust, or an oil leak or something like that. Unfortunately the only way to fix one of those problems would be to pull the engine and replace the clutch. Let's hope I'm wrong.

But, hey, ya got a mighty nice steering wheel for that sucker! ;-)

Check your Bowden tube. If the tube doesn't have enough bend the movement (twist) of the motor during acceleration from a stop makes the clutch slightly disengage causing the motor to twist the opposite way and the clutch re-engages. This action happens several time while letting out the clutch and causes shuttering. Once your moving it goes away.

I had a bad case of this a while back and thought I was going to lose some of my fillings until it was fixed. I at first thought it was a rear oil seal contamination on my flywheel. After pulling the motor to inspect and finding nothing I learned what a Bowden tube was.

Jerome

Betcha that it's just the Boden Tube ! !

Folks NEVER look at that when they do a new engine install or a clutch job.

Check and make sure that the "dip" is correct, you only want an about inch. You can increase the drop with "C" washers, you can lessen it by making sure that the chassis tube end is correctly inserted and the opening isn't full of crap.

Worst case, just remove the bracket (attached to the trans side plate on an IRS) and file a bit off of it.

Luck!

TC





Oooopppsss ! ! ! Jerome just beat me to it. Listen to him first, then me. Then adjust the tube.

Thanks for the info. I did a little research on the Bowden Tube and think I understand how to fix it but cannot find out where I can get access to it. Tunnel, underneath, or pulling the trans?

Right next to the trans on the driver's side. The tube runs from the rear bulkhead of the pan to the bracket attached to the top left of trans side cover where the CVs are. The clutch cable runs through it and ends at the throwout bearing pivot. Find the butterfly nut and feel your way forward, once you run out of clutch cable, your hand will be on the bowden tube the rest of the way.

Pull the driver's side rear wheel and the heater connector tube that goes from the engine heater box outlet to the pan inlet. Everything will be revealed.

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=VW+bowden+tube+%2B+diagram&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&resnum=1&ct=title

http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqbwdn.htm

http://www.vw-resource.com/bowden_tube.html

It's REALLY Easy Peasy.

Luck!

TC

One final question. I made a few C-washers to slip onto the cable. How do I make slack to slip the washers on? Can I pull the bowden tube enough to slip in the washers?

"Can I pull the bowden tube enough to slip in the washers?"

Yup....way more than enough.

Put 'em in at the rear end of the tube - there should already be some there. If not, maybe THAT's why it's shuddering on take-off. I've got 5/8" worth of washers on mine to get it right.

Just don't overdo it on the "dip" in the tube. This is a case of where more is definitely NOT better! I ended up reducing my bowden dip to barely minimum (can't remember the spec) and it solved my problem. The original had actually frayed and cut my clutch cable, so I removed some washers to good effect.

Went I got to take a look at the bowden tube I notice it already had a dip of at least 1". I thought I'd add a few washers before I started subtracting a few. Added 3 washers and it seemed to do the trick. I only tested 1st gear pull a few time but I had no clutch chatter.

Thanks guys for all your help. I doubt I could afford this hobby if I had to take it to the shop for every repair. Even if I could find a shop in my area.

I find it amazing the effect that this one small part has on the overall operation of the car.

Makes you wonder if they planned/designed it that way from the start or put the prototype together, whereupon it shuddered like hell and they said (in German, of course): "Whoa! WTF?!?! Let's put a bend in the clutch cable carrier tube to account for the movement of the engine as it torques and see what happens!"

Impressive design, nonetheless.......