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Yup, that says it.  Find a few replicas to sit in and decide which seat style (Speedster, Roadster or Coupe) you like best.

Dark carpeting or Coco mats are best, although I have Burgundy carpeting and it's not too bad to keep clean - just an occasional vacuuming.  Coco Mats are a breeze to keep clean - pull them out, whack them a couple of times on a wall or something, vacuum out the foot wells and put them back.

Hello, the pics are of the car I am putting together an order for, just have not decided on interior details yet. After I'm done with the aesthetics will move under the hood etc. I like the cocoa mats idea. I want to CGI the car image before giving the green light. I think I'm going with Nardi wood for the wheel w matching shift knob. 

What I really can't get around is this A/C thing.  I live in South Florida and driving with the top down, or no top at all on 104F weather with 60% humidity is still troubling me.

So, back to the A/C. I've seen some nice options of a matching valance built under the dash with side retro vents for passenger and driver.  Does anyone know who builts this. VS does not, and I'm not sure I want to go anywhere else to get this car built.

All ideas welcome.  Thank you again for the valuable input.

Julio B. posted:

Hello, the pics are of the car I am putting together an order for, just have not decided on interior details yet. After I'm done with the aesthetics will move under the hood etc. I like the cocoa mats idea. I want to CGI the car image before giving the green light. I think I'm going with Nardi wood for the wheel w matching shift knob. 

What I really can't get around is this A/C thing.  I live in South Florida and driving with the top down, or no top at all on 104F weather with 60% humidity is still troubling me.

So, back to the A/C. I've seen some nice options of a matching valance built under the dash with side retro vents for passenger and driver.  Does anyone know who builts this. VS does not, and I'm not sure I want to go anywhere else to get this car built.

All ideas welcome.  Thank you again for the valuable input.

Julio...just an "outside idea" from the frozen North of Canada. I needed heat like you need cool. I mounted my ( Subaru liquid cooled engine ) heater behind the rear seat back firewall just ahead of the engine wall and just brought heat into the cockpit via short scat tubing to the bulkheads left and right by the rear of the door jambs. Nothing goes all the way forward to the foot well or dash area. It heats very well.

Would AC work as well through those bulkheads or do you need  cool air all the way to the front ?

Julio,

Here's a picture of a VS with your paint/seat color combo, with charcoal carpets... Looks great, and easy to keep clean... I have charcoal carpets. Car pictured is not mine, just had it in my files because I liked the color combo,

image

On  side note--- are you having Vintage Speedster build your car new?  Wide body or traditional?   

Kirk is awesome to work with...  it's all about specking your car early, knowing what  you want. ( not to offend anyone-  there are other great builders out there... I'm just sharing my particular great experience w/ VS.)

  Think big-  Christmas list big... CB engine/ RanchoPro transmission, remote oil cooler, vintage speed quick shifter, A1 exhaust/or vintage speed, more original flat classic wood wheel- like 9 bolt Moto-Lita/Volante/Lempert and matching ISP west hub,  Ivory colored steering shaft and hub, silver colored steering shaft retainer bracket, classic blinker arm/ foot hi-beam switch, disk breaks on all four corners, speedo gauge on the right, LEDs/relays/fluted headlight lenses, under dash brake, tenax fasteners for top, large late model 356 Porsche like door pockets ( pictured in the attached photo)-- or no pocket door panels like early 356, heater boxes with direct routed air hoses to pax cabin (better air flow for cold chilly mornings), convex aero mirrors, more classic lap belts than VS 1960s stock ( stock belt pictured), silver colored windshield wipers, louvered rear deck lid, hard top...

kirk built my current car in 2013.  I love it... Can't say enough good things about my particular experience.  ( some have reported less possitive experinces).   i learned what I wanted from a used VS I had owned before ordering a new one... But still I tried cutting a few "cost corners" ... Lesson learned....I was  Penny wise and pound foolish!

in the end, I updated everything I originally skimped on except my engine/ transmission.... And that's on my bucket list.  ( not that I need to replace it--- they run great--- but I crave something larger than 1915).

on another side note---   there are some advantages to tube frame cars built by Beck and IM... Reading about the recent Spider accident reminds me of the value of a newly build tubular frame vs a pan based car.    Makes me to think about what would happen if my VS was caught in a similar situation, and as an engineer and father of two kids in grade school, i have a hard time admitting to myself my beautiful car is no safer than my classic 1950's motorcycles.

good luck and enjoy the experience...  Happy to answer any Qs.

Cheers, Luis


 

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Last edited by Lfepardo

My car is exactly like the one in your third picture. Silver car, oxblood interior (VS calls it Wine Allante), and black carpet, black soft top, black tonneau (both full and quarter). The car was built in 2001 so the black carpet doesn't look quite that black anymore. I also have black/red Coco mats. I have no trouble keeping it clean.

For me the all red interior is too much red.

Julio - I live in Charleston, SC, and the heat/humidity here is about as bad as where you are.  I have had people from Florida say it's worse because we don't have the steady breeze that you usually have.  Anyway, the point is that I am intimately aware of your problem.  In the middle of the summer I tend to limit my riding a bit, but as long as I'm moving it's tolerable.  You just learn to embrace the sweat .  Keep in mind that my Speedster is a weekend toy.  If you plan to use it as a daily driver, particularly when dressed for work, then A/C is more of a requirement.

To answer David's question, you would really want the vents in front so that you can feel the cool air blowing on your face and arms.  Even if the temperature isn't dropped that much, the cool, dry air blowing directly on you makes you feel a bunch better.

Last edited by Lane Anderson

I currently live in Norfolk VA.  But I did own 2 spyders when I lived in FL for ten years.  My current IM has AC.  Spyders obviously did not.  Spyder is a motorcycle on 4 wheels and is to be used in a similar fashion.  Can't AC a bike or a spyder.  Sweating is part of the fun.  I have never used my AC in Norfolk, VA no matter how hot and humid it is.  What's the point in having a top down car if you can't have the top down.  I would agree with Lane that motion is key.  If I'm taking my car out in 100 degree 90% humidity weather I want to be moving same as motorcycle/spyder.  On the other hand I would say that AC is a must in 2 other situations.  One is when it is hot and its raining outside and you are top and windows up.  The other is when it is freezing outside and the car is closed up.  Humidity in the car can be a killer.  Obviously in FL you won't be concerned with the latter.  Oh I just forgot in the summer my wife will not get in the car unless its buttoned up with the  AC on.  Face melting thing you know.

Alan Merklin posted:

(VS calls it Wine Allante)   "Allante" brand vinyl is a soft and durable faux leather, I use it in most of my projects,  it's as close to the real deal and a fraction of the cost...available in about 20 colors.

I'd say it's durable. The interior is 15 years old and the odometer shows almost 21,000 miles and it still looks new.

Alan,

Hello, thanks for the Beck link. I was (still am) thinking to go with VS. But I'll inquire with Beck as well.  I am fixed with the A/C thing, but do not want this black box under dash as presented by VS. It just looks like it doesn't belong there in my opinion. Not sure when A/C was incorporated into vehicles for the first time so need to look that up.

@All: I wish there was a classic dealer with some speedster options around my area, but as per the research that I have done they have 1 or 2 in Ft. Lauderdale and none are wide body so that might do little to my cause.  I have a friend who lives in Boston that has a wide body from VS here in Miami, but he is not coming until mid April when I can see his car, maybe test drive it.  He is not a member of the SOC, or atleast I couldn't find him so will let him know about the site. 

 

@Gordon: I will definitely incorporate CocoMats. I think I'm going to go with dark grey/charcoal Carpet. Can always replace later, but all red or burgundy might be too much. The VS Wine color is my prefered at this point for upholstery.   I will have to reasearch on the type of seats though. I've seen som IMs online with seats with headrests, that looks like an interesting option.  Also I prefer the over the shoulder Seatbelt, even though that might not be the 'vintage look', but after reading some accident threads in here, it is an item of concern.

Thanks again to all for the valuable input.

 

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  • VS A/C Box: Air Conditioning option

Luis, 

Thank you for the extensive reply. I will pm you some questions. In the end I just want to make the right choice of car builder and obviously the right choice in car specs. Definitely going wide body. If I get hooked on the hobby maybe later down the road will look into a traditional model.  I've seen some videos on youtube of some of the members here going for a ride and it just looks (feels) like the right place to be. I love modern cars and recently have had 911s and Panameras but everytime I went in for service and saw the classics on display, even the early 80s/90s Porsches, the feel inside was night and day from the plastic composites and leatherette I was sporting. Not to mention you see one in every corner here in Miami Beach.  In the garage at work there is an early 70s  911 red on tan sunroof coupe that parks 3 stalls away from mine and the guy uses it as his daily driver, black fuchs, I met the guy once and he said he would not trade the feel for any new age model, and I believe him.

I just wish this purchasing process would be as easy as going to Champion Porsche and picking out the color.  BUT ITS NOT...

..more to come.  Thank you!

"So, back to the A/C. I've seen some nice options of a matching valance built under the dash with side retro vents for passenger and driver.  Does anyone know who builds this. VS does not, and I'm not sure I want to go anywhere else to get this car built."

Julio:  You were most likely looking at the setup that Intermeccanica uses for integrating air conditioning into their cars.  They do it beautifully.

You will see it in this car:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/65579473@N08/sets/72157649859973303/

Julio.... One important thing to note.  I love my VS and driver it daily 4-6 months of the year.  but there is a reason why VS/ JPS cars are cheaper cars than Beck / IM.

VS cars ( as well as most ) will require some sorting before they become reliable long road trip/ daily drivers. The sorting can range from neusence items ( timing, shorts, alignment) to pulling the engine.  This forum has documented the full spectrum.   

A VS car will not be a daily driver our of the box.  the initial dissapointmet is probably one of the main reasons why so many used Speedsters with less then 500miles come up for sale.  One can't just take these cars to a local dealer to be worked on.  They are a labor of love.

please do read up on the new build speedster experience.  Would hate for anyone to have their dream crushed by " modern car" reliability expectations.

 

Luis, I understand and thank you for the concern, I share it as well. Is there someone on the forum that can assist in the sorting and getting it right out of the box?. If I do end up going the VS route which is most likely, I would like to have someone experienced in speedsters assist me in receiving the car. If I have to leave it in CA for another week to tune it in, align properly etc. I don't mind doing that. Here in Miami Beach I don't have to drive long distances. When I do, I either fly or rent a car. Also when I go out at night I never drive as my other hobby is vintage wines. Uber has actually come in very handy in recent years. 

Appreciate all the notes. All of this only makes me appreciate the hobby more being new to it and all. (or almost new to it).

Thank you!

Hi

I'm a new member with a question for lfepardo.

I just got off the phone with Kirk from VS.  He can build me a 2110cc engine Speedster 

for $29,000 plus tax.  He doesn't use Mexicrate engines anymore.  However, I have two 

questions for Mr Pardo.  1. Do you think your success story with a VS is related to the fact that you installed a CB Performance engine and a Rancho Transmission?  2. What other issues did you have with your VS.  Your feedback is highly appreciated since you've been there, done that kind of deal.

Thank you so much.

Blasco.

 

Blasco,

What you really need to ask is this, "Hello forum members! Many of you have purchased Vintage Speedsters from Kirk. Can you please put together a comprehensive list of things that I need to do once I get my car? Based on my driving style which is (****) can you suggest the appropriate options to add into the build? Thank you so much as I am very appreciative of all of the combined years of knowledge that I can readily harness here."

Blasco you need to create a separate thread dedicated to these questions that you have and these folks will impart some very good and valuable knowledge just for you.

How's that fellas?

It would be interesting to know the % of VS deliveries that do/don't have issues.  It is well known that Kirk builds a lot of cars and I hope that we are not being guilty of discouraging some prospective speedster enjoyers  from taking the plunge because we harp about what may be only a  very small % of problematic cars going out of the VS door.  I am puzzled, however ( as many of us probably are), that upon build  completion, a checklist/shakedown similar to that published on this site is not incorporated in the pre-delivery routine.  It just seems it would be extremely cost effective for Kirk as well as contribute exponentially to the reputation of his product. 

 

Julio (and Blasco), I'm starting to sound like the resident curmudgeon here, but I'm getting tired of watching new, enthusiastic converts to the Speedster buy a new VS with a stock motor and then be devastated by the mountain of problems that can end up bringing them.

I should quickly add that I own a VS and love it. A new VS can be the cheapest and easiest way to start enjoying all the coolness that a Speedster is. It IS possible that you might buy one with a stock motor and luck out - with just the usual sorting issues. Some folks here, like Luis I think, fall into that category. But, as Clint Eastwood once said, "Are you feeling lucky?"

You will almost certainly get a better motor and eliminate 90 per cent of those sorting issues if you have a reliable shop build you a new engine and have Kirk install that in your new build. This will cost a bit more than having VS put in a stock motor. But you won't be thinking about money when you are stuck on the side of the road some dark and stormy night.

You can have an engine built to your specific needs and expectations. You'll know exactly who built it, what parts are in it, and you'll have someone you can hold accountable for any issues down the road. CB Performance would be a great choice, but there are many other local builders who can do as good a job. Finding an engine builder you can work with may be a bigger decision than choosing the car builder.

First, spend some time and read this thread posted by Will Hesch when he picked up his new VS last fall. It is a long thread, but if you're about to spend $30,000 on a new car, it will be well worth your time.

http://tinyurl.com/jnn7h5v

Will is about the fourth person I know of in the past two years, including myself, who found out that going cheap can be very, very expensive.

 

Rusty asked: "Can you please put together a comprehensive list of things that I need to do once I get my car?"

Sure.

Here you go, and if you think this is a lot or you don't understand half of it, contract with Troy Sloan (West Coast) or Alan Merklin (East Coast) to do this for you.  This level of scrutiny should be worth at least $2,000 and probably closer to $4,000, but that's up to them.  After all, a lot of these are safety issues - What is YOUR life worth?:  

Acceptance checklist for a new Speedster/Spyder (any builder)

Note:  This list is just a beginning and doesn’t cover every optional item or accessory available from the builders.   This is only meant to get you to a safe and acceptable car before and upon delivery.

 Safety Inspection

 Suspension

  1. Check all tie rod ends for tightness. (22 ft. lbs.)
  2. Check tie rod locking clamps for tightness. (22 ft. lbs. for clamps, 29 ft. lbs. for locknuts)
  3. Check ball joints/front hubs for no-play tightness (jack up front, bar under tire and jiggle)  Ball joint nuts should be 36 ft. lbs (10mm nuts ) or 51 ft. lbs. (12 mm nuts)
  4. Check the front wheel bearings for (a.) adequate lubricating grease and (b.) proper bearing pre-load (.001”-.003” acceptable end play).
  5. Check front axle beam mounting bolts for tightness (36 ft. lbs.)
  6. Check pitman arm nut for tightness (72 ft. lbs.)
  7. Check for max +- 1” play or less at top of steering wheel, front wheels centered.
  8. Check steering wheel hub nut and wheel adapter attach bolts/screws for tightness.
  9. Check steering column coupler and steering box mounts for tightness. (18 ft. lbs.)

10. Check ALL wheel lug nuts for proper torque (5-lug= 72 ft. lbs., 4-lug = 90 ft. lbs.) NOTE:  alloy wheels may require different torques.  Check with your builder for proper wheel lug torque settings.

 11. Check spring plate bolts for tightness on rear suspension (87 ft. lbs.)

 12. Check diagonal arm bolts for tightness (87 ft. lbs.)

 13. Inspect rear torsion bar cover plate for tightness

 14. Insure that all corners of the car sit equally

15.  No “creaking” or squeaks or clunking when fender corners are bounced – all shock absorbers should be tight.

 16. Check rear wheel hub castellated nuts – torque to 260 – 275 ft. lbs.

 17. Check the mount points on any anti-sway bars (if equipped) for proper tightness.

 Brakes

  1. Inspect all wheel brake cylinders, flexible hoses and fittings for any leakage.
  2. Check the master cylinder (pull left front wheel for easy access) for any leaks at the fittings, and/or any leaks at the push rod behind the brake pedal in the cockpit (look under the carpet for wetness).  The brake fluid reservoir should have fluid to the “Full” mark in both halves of the container.
  3. Check that the brake pedal push rod keeper is in place on the brake pedal.
  4. Make sure BOTH foot pedals are lined up equal when at rest.  (the adjustment is on the floor below the pedals)
  5. Check Brake pedal free-play – should be ½”-¾” Max travel at top of pedal.
  6. Firmly depress the brake pedal.  It should feel quite firm.

Brake Road test: 

  1. Check for good stopping power – There should be no side pulling when applying brakes, but remember that these are NOT “Power assist” brakes and a bit more foot power may be required to stop.
  2. Test emergency brake when underway – there should be no side pulling when e-brake is applied. If there is, then the ebrake should be adjusted on both rear wheels.

 Lights/horn

  1. Check Horn - it should beep.
  2. Check all lights including brake lights
  3. Check for proper operation of directional lights and emergency flashers
  4. Check inside courtesy lights for operation

Gauges

  1.  Check gauge lights for proper operation (yes, some backlit gauges tend to be dim)
  2.  Check all gauges for proper operation – Fuel, Temp, Pressure (if equipped) Tachometer should be smooth (these tend to fail a lot) and Speedo should be smooth, quiet and not jumpy when under way.
  3. Check fuel gauge – NOTE!  Some fuel gauges have more needle “swing” when the car is in motion than others.  Needle swing of up to ½ tank is considered “normal”.

Cockpit Functions

  1. Check windshield wipers
  2. Check the operation of all Dashboard switches.
  3. Check Emergency Brake operation – engage brake and release clutch in 1’st gear.  Engine should immediately stall.
  4. Check clutch pedal free play – should be 3/8” at top of pedal, adjustable at the throw-out arm on top/side of the transmission (Big Wing Nut).
  5. Gear Selection – should be able to easily engage all forward and reverse gears without “searching”
  6. Check operation of the heater/defroster controls
  7. Check operation of the A/C controls and cold output – output from the cold registers should be about 40 degrees

 Engine

  1. Check fan belt free-play – push against the belt half way between pulleys – belt should deflect about ¾” and not “squeal” when engine is rev’d.  Tension is adjusted by adding/removing shims between the upper pulley halves.  Extra shims should be between the upper pulley nut and the outer pulley half.
  2. Check all fuel line connections for tightness and no leaking
  3. Check timing:  6 degrees BTDC at idle for vacuum advance distributors, 30 degrees BTDC at 3000 rpm for centrifugal advance distributors
  4. Check oil level with engine off.  Dip Stick is just to the right of the lower fan belt pulley and has lower (fill) and upper (full) embossed marks on the stick.
  5. Remove air cleaners and check carburetor top screws for tightness – replace air cleaners
  6. Check idle speed – Should be around 800 RPM and smooth after warm-up.
  7. If you have access to an air flow meter, synchronize all four carburetor throats.
  8. Inspect engine for any oil leaks, especially at pushrod tubes (either end), sump plate, base of cylinder barrels at the case, oil pump (behind lower fan belt pulley) and at bottom of the bell housing.  A little oil wetness from behind the lower (crankshaft) pulley is considered normal.
  9. Check for oil leaks at any fittings used for an external oil filter and/or external oil cooler.  These items may be mounted almost anywhere on the car, so you’ll have to trace the hoses and see if all fittings are dry.

10. Check operation of the engine breather system if so equipped.  Breather is a box mounted to the firewall with hoses running to the valve covers, or a box mounted to the top of the oil filer, or a can mounted to the top of the oil filler.  There should also be a hose running either down past the oil dipstick to vent below the engine, or, rather, a hose venting into the air cleaner of one or both carburetors.  There should be no leaks from this system except for the hose vented to below the engine.

 11. Check for proper heater operation (if equipped).  There are several different versions of heat.  Ask the builder or previous owner how it works and make sure it is producing heat.  These cars are notorious for only producing minimal heat so don’t expect too much.

 12. When idling, it is considered “normal” for there to be a small amount of valve noise (gentle clicking).  Hard knocks, raps grinding or hammer-noises is not considered “normal”.

 13. Check Valve Clearance:  Steel Push rods are set to 0.000 - .002” Intake and Exhaust.  All other engines with aluminum push rods are set to .006” for BOTH intake and exhaust until you find out from your engine builder the correct spec for your engine (there are many variations on this – it’s best to talk with your builder).

 Transmission

  1.  Inspect transmission for leaks at all seams, at side plates, at filler (side) and drain (bottom) plugs, and at wheel back plates (for axle seal leak).
  2. Inspect bottom of bell housing for oil leak – this could be caused by either a transmission input shaft seal leak or an engine flywheel end seal leak.
  3. When underway, the transmission should shift smoothly and easily into all gears with no whining or grinding.
  4. NOTE!  Reverse is often found by pushing down on the gear shift lever, moving left as far as possible and then pulling back (with the clutch depressed).  On some cars there my be a reverse lockout button on the side of the shift handle that must be pushed in, or a reverse lockout ring on the front of the gearshift lever that must be pulled up before moving the lever to “reverse”.

 Cosmetic Items

Exterior

  1. Check door hinge bolts for tightness
  2. Check for paint overspray on all surfaces
  3.  Site along outside doors for surface waviness – they should be straight
  4. Site along body contour between engine cover and rear seat – it should not be wavy or bulbous (indicates a bubble in the fiberglass)
  5. Entire car should be free of paint cutting/polishing compound – this stuff looks like flat colored paint or off-color dull paint (or no paint) and you should be able to scrape it off with your fingernail.  It should not be left on there and should be removed by a professional paint/autobody company.
  6. Check for excessive “orange Peel” in the paint – this can be removed by color-sanding the paint, but requires a professional paint/body shop to do it.
  7. Check for “runs” in the paint – these, too, can be color-sanded out by a professional shop.
  8. Check for blemishes in the chrome everywhere.
     

Interior

  1. Check for professional seams in the carpets, door panels and seats
  2. Check for proper installation of carpeting and vinyl panels – most of these are glued on and sometimes let go.
  3. Check for tightness of any interior accessory – door and window handles, dash grab handle, rear view mirror(s), dash knobs, convertible top latches
  4. Check the radio (if equipped) for proper operation in all modes (bring along your iPod for an MP3 driver)
  5. Check power windows (if equipped) for proper and smooth operation.
  6. Check for smooth operation of the seats fore and aft – check operation of the recliners if so equipped.
  7. Check operation of the cup holders if so equipped.
  8. Check operation of any auxiliary power points if so equipped.
  9. Check for smooth operation of the convertible top and proper latching of the top to the windshield header – the latches should pull the top in about ¼”-3/8” only.  All snaps along the rear bulkhead (behind the rear seat) should line up with their respective snaps on top without excessive pulling/alignment.

10. Check the installation if the side windows to make sure they fit properly with no serious gaps.

 Typical DMV Inspection Items

  1. Ball Joints – free play
  2. Wheel hub play – should be zero hub play on all four wheels
  3. Steering play - +- 1” left/right play at top of steering wheel
  4. All lights should be operational – including parking lights
  5. Directional Lights, brake lights, emergency flashers should work
  6. Engage emergency brake, start engine and allow to idle, engage first gear, bring engine rpms up to 2,000 and release clutch – engine should immediately stall.
  7. Wipers should work (only one speed is necessary – two speeds is a bonus)
  8. You should know where your Vehicle Inspection Number (VIN) is located:  Pan based cars have the VIN stamped into the top of the central tunnel behind the seats.  IM VIN Location:       Beck/Special Edition VIN Location:  SAS Vin Location:   VS/CMC/JPS VIN Location:  Thunder Ranch VIN location:
  9. VW-Pan-Based cars should not be subject to current emissions testing as they are usually registered as the VW VIN number which suggests that they are early VW beetles and smog test exempt.  IM and Beck cars must be registered as “replicas” to be smog exempt, while SAS cars usually are registered as year-of-manufacture and pass smog tests for that year as a Subaru.

 Shipping Notes

  1. If possible and within your budget, ALWAYS SHIP IN A CLOSED CARRIER AND STIPULATE THAT YOU’LL BE ABOVE OTHER CARS.  If not, you may end up on the bottom of a 2-level truck and have brake fluid or oil drip onto your car, or have road debris, thrown from another vehicle, hit your car.  Not good.
  2. Past experience has shown that “winched on” is better than “drive on”.  Too many times we’ve seen damage caused by a driver who simply did not know the car and screwed something up or broke something.
  3. Always ask on the SOC for a list of recommended transport companies and use the ones recommended.  To not do so is at your own (and your car’s) peril.

The Speedstah Guy from Grafton

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

@....Mitch: I just finished reading the entire Will thread on his VS pickup experience and I feel I need to hire a speedster consultant, an mechanic and an attorney before embarking in this project.  Phew..��..!!

@Gordon...I'll be in Boston soon next time Sox play the Yanks, would love to come see your car. I was raised up there. Mom still lives there.  Thanks for the concern. All very helpful.

still want the car, now might just have the engine scratched and built elsewhere with the transaxle. Will sleep on it. You have a contact at CBP?

good night all..

 

 

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