Anyone use anything other than the typical Replica Speedster tops? These do NOT replicate the Originals which were a snap to use!The ones we have are a pain in the ass to put up. The originals had two easy to use chrome clamps and the rear had a semi circle holding the top in place rather than using snaps like the replicas. The original tops could be put up with one hand, reach back, pull forward, snap snap, your done! Why they made a system that is much harder is beyond me.....well they no doubt cost more to make....Jez!
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Intermeccanica.com
Realize that using another mfgr's top and carriage frame will need to use their windshield frame too, which is costly unless you are doing a new build.
Thought most Replicas use the same three clamp system with bent up top frame tabs to connect to? Didn't see any after sale parts listed on Intermeccanica site?
Both IM and Special Edition use a different configuration
Be nice if some of you posted photos of the different systems!
They're true scissor-frame tops. They are part of a turn-key build. They aren't an aftermarket part (that I know of).
A guy with the screen-name "mango smoothie" documented his CMC build a couple of years ago. He bent up his own scissor-frame top, and did a good job of outlining the work. There's a guy in Mexico selling the frames on the Samba, but I think "mango" (Paul, actually) found them to be of inferior quality, and not adaptable.
I think you're on your own here.
Put the typical top up is easy. What problems do you have?
Anyone use anything other than the typical Replica Speedster tops? These do NOT replicate the Originals which were a snap to use!The ones we have are a pain in the ass to put up. The originals had two easy to use chrome clamps and the rear had a semi circle holding the top in place rather than using snaps like the replicas. The original tops could be put up with one hand, reach back, pull forward, snap snap, your done! Why they made a system that is much harder is beyond me.....well they no doubt cost more to make....Jez!
I don't know how the original tops worked or were fastened. However, my older IM has those snaps around the rear perimeter and hold down the rear of my convertible top.
When the top is down, as mine frequently is, the snaps get disconnected, the top folds neatly into the rear seat area and a nice half or full tonneau gets snapped into those fittings. What's to bitch about with that ?
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Be nice if some of you posted photos of the different systems!
Be nice if you said please or thank you...........
Anyone use anything other than the typical Replica Speedster tops? These do NOT replicate the Originals which were a snap to use!The ones we have are a pain in the ass to put up. The originals had two easy to use chrome clamps and the rear had a semi circle holding the top in place rather than using snaps like the replicas. The original tops could be put up with one hand, reach back, pull forward, snap snap, your done! Why they made a system that is much harder is beyond me.....well they no doubt cost more to make....Jez!
I don't know how the original tops worked or were fastened. However, my older IM has those snaps around the rear perimeter and hold down the rear of my convertible top.
When the top is down, as mine frequently is, the snaps get disconnected, the top folds neatly into the rear seat area and a nice half or full tonneau gets snapped into those fittings. What's to bitch about with that ?
Come to think about it, there's another benefit of our tops that I forgot to mention. When travelling, and I do that a lot, it's a pain in the butt to open the door and reach back over the seats to remove or replace the baggage. It's very easy to do with the top up by just unsnapping the fasteners and folding the top forward to expose the rear seat area.
Do you travel much with your Speedster, Manxman ?
Both set-ups have their advantages and downsides. Vancouver IMs have a scissor-frame top, which is like an original, mounts by means of being fixed under the rear window, and which can be "one-handed" (at least in theory). They seal better, look more original, and set the car apart a bit.
However: they aren't perfect. They are a lot more expensive to fit and replace if needed. They take up more space when down. A roll-bar (if you use one) becomes about 2" more narrow (to clear the scissor part of the frame). Having the back fixed makes running a "turtle deck" (or any other fancy add-on) an order of magnitude more difficult.
The "two bows and a lot of snaps" top isn't perfect, but the scissor-frame tops don't make a speedster seal like a Miata.
To answer David's question, I have traveled with a car with a scissor-frame. It's nice. David's traveled a lot more in his car than I have, so I'll defer to his opinion on the "two bows and a lot of snaps" tops.
These are two shots of an Intermeccanica Speedster with roll bar, and the top down. I have no idea if this is all that relevant to this 'discussion', but Henry is still finishing my car, and I like to look at pictures of it.
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Please view :http://www.356porsche-west.com/speedster-top-frames/ and you'll see what Original Speedster tops were constructed like. I'm contacting them but wanted to see IF any other Replica builders offered tops like the originals?
These are the original latches : http://www.sierramadrecollecti...h-Chrome-p19351.html
You can see they are MUCH simplier and FAR more attractive!
Contact Mango.
Mango? is he or that a member or a fruit or a company?
Great thanks!
You can also contact Rafael Albiter, in Mexico. ralbiter at hotmail dot com. they are like the originals, but will require a bit of fiddling with and personalizing to your car once you get them.... Attached are a couple pictures of build process fotos he sent me.... He does provide the windshield bow and side curtains, but not the side curtain post... So you will have to buy them at places like - vintagespeedsterparts.com... Or the windshield attach latches.
to date I'm using the laches that came on my VS, as I did not want to remove my windshield to install the more original looking ones/ or risk breaking my windshield while drilling the holes to attach the hardware with the windshield on.
This is really is a Madness....
ralbiter@hotmail.com>
Lenth of of top can be adjusted 3" to fit the specific locatioj of your cars windshield... Ref pic #3
be specific in your request... He can make high bow/low bow... I also asked him not to install any snaps so I could install my own after I was done custom fitting his top to my car and gluing the stafast to the top bow aft.
quality of scisor frame could be better... But it's a good starting point to make improvements to. Which I did following a Mangos directions.... End product isgreat for me...
attached is is the top before he shipped it
It does fit under the tannau cover when it's in its down possition.
Only real downside is that in the winter I have to remove it, as the back bow interferes with my hard top... Kind of a pain as the attachment hardware just happens to be in the same location, and I didnt want to mess with my hard top...
soft top is off the car for the winter.... otherwise I would send you some pictures..
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Pricing will be 20% of what the U.S. builders will ask you for a similar 356 scisor frame....
found some more pictures in my email he sent me... Rafael is a good guy, and easy to work with. My experience was very positive with him. Hope the helps.
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Looks GREAT! Thanks !
FYI I just got this from a Speedster Top builder GULP!
Obviously he's ill informed!
for $7500, i'll fly down to you, buy a welder and make one in your garage. LOL
http://www.mangosmoothie.ca/convertible-frame
Those fasteners look good but are not adjustable if your top needs minute adjustment. I do find the plastic rear window a pain, I would love it to be glass, and I even thought of having the plastic window be completely un zippable so that another could be sewn in place at will when the plastic gets damaged. By the way, anyone know what product is a good product to fix minor and/or major plastic scratches in a convertible top window. Ray
Oh I forgot ... prettty please...
end up spending making your own modifications...
If I had a fraction of Mango's skill, I would have tried making my own, but
Rafaels was a great alternative to start from, Limited my work to making
sure it fit my car, the scissor operated smoothly, and the stafast was
tight... frame already came painted ivory... so just minor paint touch ups
after I was done playing w/it.
Reality is... I could have lived the VS two bow top... they work well, and
in a pickle does the job... but I was looking for a winter project last
yr... the Madness is not for the faint of heart, and my decision criteria
for mod's seldom seems logical. They are just fun projects. ;-)
.
NOVUS 1 2 3 it's a small 3 bottle set available on eBeg
Las Vegas Mark must be smoking some left over canvas.......
,
Three weeks labor?
$45 hundred dollars?
Hmmmm...I smell smoke!
Why is it that some entrepreneurs, with PORSCHE spelled out in their business identification, have no compulsions about blowing smoke up your arse?
For a rational reality check I'd like Mango to estimate the total time involved in creating his scissor top frame.
It's been this way since way back when. Back in the 356 days smart 356 owners knew you could pay 1/3 the cost of a Porsche clutch and pressure plate by hitting up your local VW dealer for a Transporter clutch!That's why we drive Replicas now! Ain't cheap, but reasonable compared to say my Boxster S! LoL
I learned about the Porsche "mark-up" years ago. Whenever I needed to buy a part that was non-specific I would always say VW.
I have also found that people with expensive toys, sometimes want to pay more. People have equated price with quality. Porsche parts are more expensive, there for they must be better quality.
Recently on Pelican I informed a poster that a older 911 starter is the same as in a VW auto- stick and if you got stuck by the side of the road, most FLAPS would have it in stock( judging from a pm I got, that seems to have twisted a few panties)
Too funny! Sadly too true!
That frame is almost exactly what a Beck top frame looks like. It could very well be exactly the same.
Just going on what I've seen/heard about in the local 356 club, original Porsche owners seem to be very happy paying 10X-20X what I would for the same part or service (mine being custom or VW parts, of course). They also find reputable vendors/tradespeople mostly via word-of-mouth and, if they are happy with what they get, will be extraordinarily loyal to that source, even to the point of not telling others about a place they want to protect as "theirs".
It's an interesting bunch.
I found another hole-in-the-wall parts place near me this morning, that I had never heard about - They are just like "Fastenal", but with more on-hand inventory PLUS - - - - They sell singles, unlike Fastenal, where they might have what you want but make you buy an entire box of whatever which you're then stuck with (anybody want a box of one-use, Allen-head, headbolts for a VW Scirocco 1.8L??).
Tri-State Fasteners - Worcester, MA
http://tristatefast.com/default.aspx
And Nicolle, at the counter, knows WAY more about fasteners and their proper use than I ever will!!!
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Gordon- You're slipping! I don't see Nicole in the pic...
Markup is in the stratosphere for P cars, I know it well, and 10 times at least is normal so you need to be informed before you buy one that buying it is the cheap part. Hey, but on the other hand discretionary spending is just that mostly sentimental... most times it is utterly mental...to each his own madness... ha ha ha
Oddly enough, we have a fabulous fastener / hardware / tool supply here in Ottawa. Excellent supply, selection and service every time.
http://www.ottawafastenersupply.com/
Nicely enough, Suzanne works there full time weekdays. Some weekends she helps me with the Speedster if she has time. Sometimes she sleeps in, though.