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They're both warm weather toys.  However, it's a little more comfortable getting to and from events with a Speedster.  I thought that I might want one, but one ride in one convinced me it was too snug and little too spartan for me and i'm not a very big guy, 5'10'' 190 lbs.  I jealous of the engine access and the performance, but I'll keep my comfort.  Also, it would be a stretch getting one registered in Michigan because it has no bumpers.  I'm sure people have pulled it off, but registering a car in MI as an assembled vehicle requires bumpers.

I like Spyders.....

 

Come to a show and sit, ride, and drive both.

 

Yes, a Spyder is more Spartan than the already Spartan Speedster. The most civilized is the IM with roll-up windows.

 

You can make a Spyder almost as comfortable as a Speedster, heat, top, etc. But not anything can be done about the size if you're a big guy.

I owned a Spyder for 7 years before selling it and rebuilding a CMC Speedster....

Both car's engines were in the 2 liter range.....   The Spyder was quicker by far and had a top end I would NEVER see as the front end got way to light over 90mph.... (This can be rectified with suspension mods.)    The Speedster has a little more weight and the weight is centered on the chassis differently.....   Driving either one is a change up from today's front wheel drive and the older live rear axel drive cars.....  That said, the Spyder corners flatter with less of a tendency for the rear end attempting to pass you... (Again, suspension mods can mediate this situation.)   

 

The CMC is not the roomiest Speedster on the market....My Beck Spyder actually had more leg room and luggage space.....  Lane drives a Beck Speedster, and may indeed have more space available....

 

Read the "So You Want to Buy a Speedster" section and read it twice....  Todays replicas are generally well finished compared with the crop from 10 years ago, but still require some "sorting" out and religious maintenance....

 

Either car is a hoot to drive, with the Spyder drawing in the attention at the stop lights and service stations over the more conventional Speedster....

 

So, do your research and let your wallet be your guide.....  (Trust me on this, you'll want a bigger engine...)

 

Originally Posted by Troy Sloan:

Hmmmmm?  Kind of surprised!  You're right here in Clovis and as far as I know you have not reached out to any of us local guys, so I'll make the first move.

I can arrange for you to see 3 Vintage Super Widebodies, which all happen to be sitting in my garage at the moment, a Beck Spyder, a Vintage regular body and a JPS regular body.

Just give me a call.

Troy 908-3258


TB911 - I'm not sure you'd get a better opportunity to check out a complete line of awesome and well sorted examples.

 

Did anyone else catch that Troy said he has 3 SWB Speedsters?  Troy, Are you working on two at once? (Plus your personal car...)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Troy Sloan:

Hmmmmm?  Kind of surprised!  You're right here in Clovis and as far as I know you have not reached out to any of us local guys, so I'll make the first move.

I can arrange for you to see 3 Vintage Super Widebodies, which all happen to be sitting in my garage at the moment, a Beck Spyder, a Vintage regular body and a JPS regular body.

Just give me a call.

Troy 908-3258

Troy,

 

Thank you so much for the invitation, I guess I never really paid close enough attention to know that you live in Clovis, as well. I would love to take a look at the cars you have and get a hands on education of Speedsters! I'll be calling you this week!

 

Thanks!

My plan at the moment is to put my blue car's 2045 into the silver and black car and put the 1915 from the silver and black car into my blue car and then sell my blue car.

 

If you notice, the silver and grey car has a turbo emblem on the back.  I hate to disappoint anyone, so I am talking with my mechanic about putting a turbo on my 2045 engine.  No promises, but it could happen.

 

The third Super Widebody has a Pat Downs (CB Performance) 2010 and is silver with a charcoal grey all leather interior.

Originally Posted by DEEREDRIVER:

Troy,  How big is your garage?  I have trouble fitting 4 cars into a 3 car garage using wheel dollys!  If you can fit (is it 6 cars) and have room to work, that is one helluva a garage!  What kind of HP will these cars have?  Regards,

I only have a three car garage and it's a narrow tandem, one in front of the other on one side.  It does have a drive through to a covered patio in back, which helps, but my BMW and Sally's Jag typically have to park in the driveway.  It is nowhere near big enough and is a total mess, with crap everywhere, but somehow I manage to find what I need when I need it. I don't typically have three cars at the same time, just mine and one that I am working on.

I envy you guys with tile floors, tools hanging on the wall and refrigerators stocked with beer in your Man Caves, but that just isn't me.

Back to the subject at hand. RE: Leon's hi-speed Spyder stability: I routinely travel the interstate and have cruised at 90 for miles, short distances at 110 to get away from lookie-loos and have seen 125 indicated(ask Cory). Rock solid, correct ride height(stance) and alignment do the trick.

 

Not sure of Speedster stability at speed. YMMV.

I would have to concur with Leon about the front end of the Spyder getting light at high speeds.  I owned 2 and they both would get light and unstable in the front at high speeds as you approach 100 mph.  Actually Hans Hermann, great Spyder pilot, made this comment in a documentary.  Maybe stiffer suspension and lowering the front end would make a difference, but I think it has a lot to do with air flow and lift...Bernoulli's principle.  The front of the car would need a front air dam to prevent the air from flowing under the car.  Slower moving air under the car produces lift.  Get rid of the slower moving air under the car and lift goes away. 

I have not taken my 356 near 100 mph so I cannot comment.  I will say that my Spyders would run circles around my 356 on the track.  Don't mean to be critical... just saying.

Originally Posted by Carl Berry CT.:

       

Speedster stability?

My VS began to 'float' with looser steering at about 70/75mph until I put about 40lbs in the nose and then it settled down and remained tight and responsive.


       


40lbs, in addition to the battery? I'm guessing you used a sandbag?

Ted
Originally Posted by Carl Berry CT.:

Speedster stability?

My VS began to 'float' with looser steering at about 70/75mph until I put about 40lbs in the nose and then it settled down and remained tight and responsive.

Carl- Have you added caster (shims under bottom beam) to the front end?

 

Originally Posted by DannyP:

Back to the subject at hand. RE: Leon's hi-speed Spyder stability: I routinely travel the interstate and have cruised at 90 for miles, short distances at 110 to get away from lookie-loos and have seen 125 indicated(ask Cory). Rock solid, correct ride height(stance) and alignment do the trick.

 

Not sure of Speedster stability at speed. YMMV.

Danny- Alignment #'s?

Last edited by ALB

I've seriously considered adding some ballast up front to help balance things out, particularly braking performance.  When Danny brought his scales a few years back my car came out at 1700 pounds with a 39/61 fore/aft weight balance - actually better than the current 911.  Still, it's all too easy to lock up the front brakes while the rears are still turning, so some ballast might be wise.  With the Beck frame I can add weight just behind the front wheel center line at floorboard level.  Would that be wise, and if so, how much?  This would be below the gas tank.  I also have a full-size spare tire, jack, and tire tools up front.  The battery (14 lb Odyssey gel-cell) is in the engine compartment.

Lane---are you sure about that front to rear weight split?   I was the next car to be weighed after yours and remember that I thought yours was closer front to back than mine?

 

When Danny weighed everyone's cars at Carlisle a couple of years ago mine ws $1,763 # with the split being Front:  46% and rear 54%.  That was with the Type IV that weighs about 20# more than a Type I.  I may have had some tools in the front that made such an even weight distribution but I kind of remember taking whatever was in there out for the weighing.  I do know the 8 gallon tank was full because I always keep it topped off at Carlisle.

Last edited by Jack Crosby
Originally Posted by Lane Anderson - Mt. Pleasant, SC:

Currently drums, but I am seriously considering switching to disks (again).  This time I'll get the exhaust modified so they'll fit.

 

Where could I get appropriate weights?

I don't know about weights, but Kymco http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...detail.php?id=846684 has semi metallic brake shoes and claim that they're all you need. 29.95/axle...way cheaper than rear discs.

Tom--that's a fact.  Fastest car I ever rode in (until Danny's ) was a '40 Ford that a high school chum drove.  He was Humpy Wheeler who managed the Charlotte Motor Speedway for many years.  Positively scared the doo doo out of me.

 

Danny's would run circles around that Ford!  I had my last ride with him a couple of years ago and that will last me a very loooong time!  

Sorry, Jack! Didn't mean to make your hair turn white. Or make Tom turn into Doctor Evil! 

 

Al: -1.5 degrees camber front, about -3 to -3.5 rear, ride height dependent, 1/16" toe front and rear. Factory caster is 2.5 to 4.5 degrees, mine is on the heavy side of that, but I don't remember exactly. I wouldn't say that the self-centering is anything but just right. I installed the aftermarket extra range camber adjusters. The tires do wear more on the inside, the price you pay for turn-in "bite". Amazingly, the rears wear evenly.

 

Spyder is 44/56 front/rear. On my second set of tires, Bridgestone RE960 185/65 and 195/60 on 4.5.and 5.5 wide5s. Front shocks are modified KYB GR-2 and rear are QA1 double adjustable coilovers with 375 lb. springs.

 

Before Vince says "too technical" I will!

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