Speedster windshield

Cory had one in MD - but got rid of it a couple weeks ago!  Best bet is Cary Hines @ Beck/Special Edition.  Think his fits many vendor's products.

TY

If Carry has an extra in stock he might bring it along to Carlisle and save you shipping costs.

TY, will contact him

I'm already bringing a few to Carlisle so it isn't a big deal to bring another, just need to know before Wednesday.

RonA,

 

If you're in the Baltimore area you need to watch this forum for local gatherings, there are a bunch of us in the area.  I understand you're windshield is broken but think about bringing it to Carlisle next year if you can't make this year.    

Thank you! May be tied up with sale of my 68 targa this go around. Ron

TY

I still have the one I was going to take to Mikel in NC. It's begun to delaminate at the edges, but if the one you have is broken, it'll certainly do for now -- and I'll not ask much for it.

 

I'm off of I-97 S, Crownsville exit.  

 

 

Ron, You'll find a lot of help on this site. Bunch of great guys.

 

Trip down memory lane, in '75 (50lbs and thousands of hair follicles ago) I sold my '68 911S Targa for $5,000. At the time, I couldn't afford to retro the rear window back to soft-window, BUMMER ! Hope you find the right buyer for your car.

 

When I see this photo I hear that rhythmic guitar wah pedal sound of the 70's :-)

http://youtu.be/uX8qTrwquVY

Looks like the only thing you need Jim is roller skates !

I'm a new VS Speedster owner in the Phoenix area. I did a dumb thing with a resulting broken windshield. I've got a replacement but am looking for someone to change it out for me. Anyone out there?

Should have also added that I'd be interested in any tips on how to do it from anyone who's replaced the windshield. 

I've done many speedster windshields, I'm in Chambersburg PA about 2 hrs from you.

It's a lenghtly process to do it right.

I'll be doing mine soon, so a posted tutorial would certainly be appreciated.  I've taken the existing windshield off and on several times, so that doesn't scare me.  What does is getting the windshield and rubber seal into the aluminum surround.  I imagine that's where most of the "Oh s--t, I broke it!" moments occur, right?

Not really, Lane...

 

Most of the awwww.....$#|+! Moments come when the installer either uses a metal screwdriver to maneuver the glass or rubber gasket around to get everything to seat right.  ALL metal tools should be banned from the garage while installing glass.  

 

The other awww.....$#|+! moment usually comes either during or after the center support strut is tightened too much - either it cracks right off or waits 12-24 hours and then......POP! When you least expect it.

Lane,

Never installed one but at Carlisle I overheard..."finger tight plus 180 degrees"

Q-tips dipped with WD 40 to lightly lube the rubber groove add some blue painters tape to hold the rubber U channel onto glass until installed, the upper aluminum frame may have a slight twist to it, you slowley hand feed it over the rubber and onto the glass...I'm brave enough to use a rubber mallet to seat ...  easy peasy :~) 

Center support:

 

You only ...snug ...the 7/16 nut support nut.

Do not use a nyloc nut as you can't tell when you have tension until you have too much or you get to call Carey Hines...again. 

When you are ready to snug the 7/16" nut from under the dash you reach up  and... gently... pull down ( towards the dash) on the windshield frame until there is no play between the frame until it is seated against the glass....now back off the 7/16 nut one half turn and dab the nut with silicone so when dry, it doesn't back off.

Then I have no worries (knock wood).  The mirror support is barely notched enough to hand on, and it will pop out if overtightened.

 

What sort of sealer or glue, if any, is recommended?

From ACE Hardware " Alex " brand it's a silicone WITH latex flat black caulk and dries to look close to a flat black rubber look.

Yeah, that's good stuff.  Don't get any onya - wear latex gloves....

 

I'm jus sayin....

 

And it does dry with the same look as the original rubber.

 

Alan:  Do you have a tip for getting the lip of the lower rubber gasket over the vertical lip of the bottom trim piece?  Or do you punt and just run the rubber gasket up against the back side of the bottom trim?   That's what I did on the last try with Pearl (we tried hard to get the lip positioned but finally gave up), but that made the top of the windshield sit 1/4"-3/8" farther back than it was before.  It sits fine, just canted back a bit more, but that makes the top and side windows fit differently now. We tried putting the glass intonthe gasket first, then fitting the gasket to the lip first. Neither method worked well.  I thught later on that if I had a string up in the lip channel of the gasket, maybe I could get the gasket close and pull the rubber lip over the uprightbtab with the string - kinda like installing a Ford rear window.  

 

Thoughts?

 

The "silicon-on-the-nut" idea makes sense.  I've always double-nutted it with a lock nut, but the silicon 'locktite' should work just as well.

The only way to get the rubber on the aluminum base trim seems to be when I buy all windshield rubber and aluminum pieces from the same vendor as new.

So it's usually something old and something new mix, so I just run a bead of caulk along the aluminum where the rubber will set and butt it against the back side. On a few of the CMC installs, I have ended up with 1/16 gap between the rubber and the base aluminum between the wiper pivot bupmps so I tape on either side of that small gap and force the latex caulk into it running a finger along that to get a smooth line. When you pull the tape (caulk is still wet) you get a nice clean final edge.

Ron now has a Speedster windshield.

Thank you Cory, you are terrific! Had a great time meeting you, Jeni and your

amazing spyder boy.  Wow!!  Here's a trip down memory lane, long, long ago when this car was just an old racer and had to step aside for the "new" 904.  Ron