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i'm planning on building 356 replica with EJ turbo, but i still can't figure it out the turbo setup, seeing Marty Grzynkowicz car got me thinking it's possible but how since i can't see the engine setup, he's using water to air intercooler, how's the setup looks like can somebody here share some pictures

i saw this setup but i dont see intercooler


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Last edited by SabotageBoxer
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I would urge caution about a turbo Subaru engine in our applications.  The sources for expertise mentioned above are installing intercoolers on entirely different platforms (Subarus, vans, and sand rails), where available real estate, routing, water and air flow, second rad, etc. are minor concerns.  When you adapt this technology to our replicas, be prepared for lots of trial and error, with error being the common thread.

Regarding size, you want the largest housing you can fit.  Intercooler manufacturers use creative license when they describe the HP application of their units, such as 800 HP, 1,000 HP, etc.

If there is a way to do it correctly, the Beck guys are the keepers of the flame.

I tried for years to get it done so it was bullet-proof and never really succeeded.  You may have better luck.  If you do, please keep the group informed.  That's how we all learn.

Let John at Outfront build you a stroker 2.6 L EJ. It’s legitimate 210-215hp naturally aspirated power. I think he’ll tell you 225-230hp. But seriously. It’s all you need. And it will be cheaper and a lot less headache than a turbo. My Outfront 2.5 EJ with built heads a bigger cam is close to 200hp and screams. It’s the car Lane mentioned.

Last edited by 550 Phil
@550 Phil posted:

Let John at Outfront build you a stroker 2.6 L EJ. It’s legitimate 210-215hp naturally aspirated power. I think he’ll tell you 225-230hp. But seriously. It’s all you need. And it will be cheaper and a lot less headache than a turbo. My Outfront 2.5 EJ with built heads a bigger cam is close to 200hp and screams. It’s the car Lane mentioned.

I agree Phil ! I love my stroked 2.6L in my speedster. And yes, he will tell you 230HP. I don't care, ,it's everything I need. Wish I had a 5 speed though...........

thanks for all the input fam, i will use @Marty Grzynkowicz water to air intercooler system, just need some info from him where did he put 1. the water reservoir tank 2, heat exchanger, and 3. the pump. after that it all set.

will this work the reservoir tank on the engine bay too, or put it in front



got another question subaru "coolant crossover assembly" from the radiator with electric racing pump, anyone got info where to get this off the shelf?

the original looks like this

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  • Screenshot 2024-07-24 at 12.11.19 PM
Last edited by SabotageBoxer

I hate to be a pest about this but I'm pretty sure that if the temp. is taken at the inlet and outlet of that small intercooler under a dyno load there will be very little difference.  The air flow has to do a 180 degree turn as well and that is another issue altogether.   I respectfully suggest that you save your money and spend it on a proper sized intercooler to install  in the void in front of the firewall with a huge fan on it.

I know you really want to do this and I don't want to rain on your desire to do this but I feel so strongly about the direction you're going may turn out to be a disappointment.. Jim Kelly's comments are right on the money as well.

If you're successful  in completing this project you will absolutely have a serious  Crotch-Rocket though !.............Bruce

i'm planning on building 356 replica with EJ turbo, but i still can't figure it out the turbo setup, seeing Marty Grzynkowicz car got me thinking it's possible but how since i can't see the engine setup, he's using water to air intercooler, how's the setup looks like can somebody here share some pictures

i saw this setup but i dont see intercooler


I've only done rear engine turbo Speedsters 2-3 times in all my years, and each one has gotten better.  I'll have to dig for some photos (I have them all but just 10000s in my general "cloud")  The big key is a proper water to air intercooler and matching secondary radiator to keep charge air cool.

The Subaru WRX 5 speed or 6 speed STi box are MUCH easier to work around than a VW box.  The problem with a VW box is all stock Subaru exhaust and plumbing will put the turbo very close to the hydraulic slave cylinder and no amount of blanketing or heat shields will prevent it from cooking slave cylinders, thus you have to scratch build all plumbing and exhaust.

And don't forget about stopping power.  The ones we built were all 300hp+ STi motors and they throw th car into hyper speed before you know it...  borderline silly HP, but I had fun in them...

@aircooled posted:

I hate to be a pest about this but I'm pretty sure that if the temp. is taken at the inlet and outlet of that small intercooler under a dyno load there will be very little difference.  The air flow has to do a 180 degree turn as well and that is another issue altogether.   I respectfully suggest that you save your money and spend it on a proper sized intercooler to install  in the void in front of the firewall with a huge fan on it.

I know you really want to do this and I don't want to rain on your desire to do this but I feel so strongly about the direction you're going may turn out to be a disappointment.. Jim Kelly's comments are right on the money as well.

If you're successful  in completing this project you will absolutely have a serious  Crotch-Rocket though !.............Bruce

theres a couple of videos on youtube showing their research comparing between air to air and water to air from what i remember it can reduce 40% heat it's check by air intake temp sensor, and of course it's smaller than air2air intercooler for like how big air2air: water2air 1:0.5 ratio, you should do some reasearch on this, even BMW stock B58 now using water to air intercooler some other factory car do this now instead of air to air intercooler.. and i'm just using stock EJ207 positioning the heat exchanger would be tricky tho sandwich with the rad in the front or somewhere else, not at engine bay i guess.. theres even a product to boost this water to air forced induction method killerchiller interchiller i wouldn't go that route tho....

it was done before check on this 356 theres video too
https://www.speedsterowners.co...subaru-turbo-5-speed

W2A A2A https://youtu.be/FLWTHSW6vck?s...Rx4BSU1F1G&t=466

https://youtu.be/LGQjRjJrUho?s...9KXHHQIFu4&t=440

Last edited by SabotageBoxer
@chines1 posted:

I've only done rear engine turbo Speedsters 2-3 times in all my years, and each one has gotten better.  I'll have to dig for some photos (I have them all but just 10000s in my general "cloud")  The big key is a proper water to air intercooler and matching secondary radiator to keep charge air cool.

The Subaru WRX 5 speed or 6 speed STi box are MUCH easier to work around than a VW box.  The problem with a VW box is all stock Subaru exhaust and plumbing will put the turbo very close to the hydraulic slave cylinder and no amount of blanketing or heat shields will prevent it from cooking slave cylinders, thus you have to scratch build all plumbing and exhaust.

And don't forget about stopping power.  The ones we built were all 300hp+ STi motors and they throw th car into hyper speed before you know it...  borderline silly HP, but I had fun in them...

thats my biggest question, what works? where did you put the extra radiator? sandwich with the engine radiator? water pump location between water2air intercooler to radiator or vice versa

nah my aim still below 300hp stock EJ207 where did you archive your turbo build with w2a intercooler i wanna see it

We used a Frozen Boost to Water to Air Intercooler. Carey Hines was the one who gave me the advice. Try to find my IM Turbo upgrade thread.  If I can find ill post it. It was around 2015.  I also used a Grimm Spead up-pipe and a front Rad.  My car never got hot.

I bet it will stay cold for a long time, great build!! hope you can find your thread, i haven't seen much 356 subbie turbo around.. btw do you remember the diagram of the turbo setup?

My first builds I did the same as Marty has pictured in his IM and I used dual Setrab coolers rear mounted under the car with fans.  It worked well, other than the aforementioned clutch slave and general heat build-up issues (not engine related issues, just heavy heat cycle on other components).  My more recent build we did a PWR WAIC mounted on my front shelf forward of the motor (which only a Beck has) and we made a radiator and brackets that sat on top of the motor and indexed a cutout int he inner skin of the engine lid and vented outward there.  It worked amazingly well (and looked cool), plus that car had a Subaru trans, so I was able to run all stock plumbing and locations and not have ill heat soak (Subaru trans has the slave on top and not on the side like a VW)

I'll try and dig for some photos this weekend.  I don't; post client build pics anywhere, but I do take them and send them to clients privately, so I have them, just have to find them...

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