Spring Plate Removal & Install Tool

Does anyone know where I can purchase one of these spring plate tools? Cip1 is out of stock and I can't seem to find it anywhere else.

Thanks, Rich

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7047

Looks like a piece of threaded rod, nuts and couple steel hooks would do same thing.

I don't like those tools because the spring plate is on an angle that changes as it moves up and down. I'm always afraid that the compressor tool wil slip and launch itsef off of there at 80mph.

If you have a roll-around floor jack, cruise on over to Home Depot or Lowe's and buy a 4'-5' long piece of 3/16" link diameter chain, plus a bolt that will fit through the links and a nut to go with it (a couple of flat washers are nice too).

Once you have disconnected the rear hub and swung it out of the way (up, preferably) and if you have the floor jack, run it under the spring plate, slip the chain under the jack, then up over the shock mount (there's a convenient flat in the shock mount for an un-used body mount hole - you can put an 8mm bolt in that hole and hold the chain in place for safety) and run it back down to the jack and bolt it together in a loop - don't give it any slack.

Remove the torsion bar end cover.

Now, place a wooden block (or be like Mike McElvey and use a hockey puck) between the jack plate/dish and the spring plate and jack it up - that will move the spring plate upwards away from the lower stop. Once the plate lifts off of the lower stop about 1/4" - 3/8", use a pry bar or BIG screwdriver to pry the plate away from the cast stop while slowly lowering the jack/plate.

That's all there is to it. Takes about 2 minutes to get the plates released. Everything happens in slowmo and is controllable.

gn

Sounds like the hot set up, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks, Rich

ya - i bought that tool, then never used it. i used the jack method.

i made up a rig using prepunched angle iron, a small piece of angle with two holes drilled in it, But since you are lowering(or are already lowered), you shouldn't need the tool or a jack (for put-together) cuz there should be room to slip it right in!
I also swapped trailing arms, left for right and upside down, then cut off shock mounts and weld em in right side up. I did this to retain camber when lowering IRS. It worked slick and easy with the body off, At this time I should have replaced torsion arm and trailing arm bushings. Also, since I had the arms off, I took em down to a local garage so they could use the big gun to pull the big nuts off, so I could swap brakes.

I'm also thinkin that a strut compresser tool could be modified! maybe
I also drive a hopped up super beetle with adjustable struts and i really need the tool to change from winter to summer(Maine) I've been using free rental at LAPS and vow to own one soon.