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I think that's vinyl. Whoever re-did the interior probably had some left over and figured it'd be a cool upgrade.
It's a safety thing....... the dash reflects in the windshield and reduces clarity of what you should be looking at. I be working on a dash cap held on by Tenax snaps, which hopefully won't scratch the paint. The stuff that needs shielding doesn't stick out too far..... the dash gauges are almost at the limit, just past the dash top edge.
Thor-bob
The correct finish for the aluminum dash insert is hammertone silver.
The gauges reflect in the windshield at night, because the dash "brow" doesn't extend far enough to shield the light. The key is to DIM the gauges as far as you can. I've gotten used to the reflection and see past it now when I drive at night. It no longer bothers me at all.
The reflection is very noticeable though when you are a new Spyder driver.
@americanworkmule I do believe it's a piece of aluminum painted hammertone silver on the real cars. Prompts the question of why they'd add that part and its complexity and weight instead of just painting under the brow. Mine is super thin fwiw.
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550-0090
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@edsnova posted:@americanworkmule I do believe it's a piece of aluminum painted hammertone silver on the real cars. Prompts the question of why they'd add that part and its complexity and weight instead of just painting under the brow. Mine is super thin fwiw.
Because the German engineers just can't help but make it complicated? Plus it looks more finished production than rough and ready race car.
Mine is thin too, weighs nothing.
I wonder what’s behind those panels on the originals. A simple open space would make it easier for the final assemblers to mount different gauges than having to preorder the bodies that way from Wendler.
Since there appear to be no fasteners on the gauge panel, I'd wager that the gauges keep it together. Every single original Spyder I've seen has the standard 3 gauge combo.
Seems like it would be easier to mount gauges to a panel, then connect as opposed to connecting under the dash maybe ???
Although lord knows Porsche likes to complicate things.
@dlearl476 posted:I wonder what’s behind those panels on the originals. A simple open space would make it easier for the final assemblers to mount different gauges than having to preorder the bodies that way from Wendler.
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Crazy. I wonder WTF they put those panels on.
@americanworkmule posted:
Look like wunna dem "kit cars."
@edsnova posted:Look like wunna dem "kit cars."
I've wondered, if someone has their "original" 550 restored frame off in the USA with USA aluminum, is it really original anymore?
Would the stuck ups scoff (Clutches Pearls) at said monstrosities of predominantly non German manufacture ?
There are plenty like that though, whether by "USA-made aluminum" or elsewise. And of course at least one was re-chassied by Porsche in period.
It all comes down to the story told and the documentation offered, which is why I have fashioned my own "Certificate of InAuthenticity" to include with the car when ownership is transferred.
I believe all PCCA members' cars should have one!
If it is framed behind glass it is Bonafide!
Ship of Theseus (see also, "Grandpa's Axe")
Interesting concept. Do I in fact have a "new" 2016 Spyder after replacing the body and frame, but re-using all running gear from the 2002 version?
I think it's not your thing D, but I have a lot of fun concocting semi-believable, facially outrageous backstories for PCCA cars in the style of the "provenance" section of the vehicle descriptions you see at Gooding, RM Sotheby's & etc. If you'd like, I'll do one for yours.
Hmmm... That'd be fun to have for the Coupe as well. It will actually have a handful of real 356 parts in it, so you can use that to build the story. We can get the deets on which parts from @chines1.
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I knew I should have hung onto the Mexicrate junker that came in my VS, so I could include the numbers matching original engine in the sale some day.
Thankfully, I still have the burned out ‘factory’ headlight switch, but I wouldn't dare restore it. They're only original once.
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@edsnova posted:I think it's not your thing D, but I have a lot of fun concocting semi-believable, facially outrageous backstories for PCCA cars in the style of the "provenance" section of the vehicle descriptions you see at Gooding, RM Sotheby's & etc. If you'd like, I'll do one for yours.
You are indeed correct, ain't my thing. But as a comic exercise might be fun.
@Sacto Mitch I threw away my OE Vintage burned-out headlight switch, and a bunch of other failed and replaced components. What have I done?
@Stan Galat In the UK, this is known as "Trigger's Broom" (from Only Fools and Horses)..
@Lane Anderson posted:Hmmm... That'd be fun to have for the Coupe as well. It will actually have a handful of real 356 parts in it, so you can use that to build the story.
Guess I could create one too, Lane. With a P engine, transmission, brakes, steering, full suspension, oil tank, etc.
I was able to use the VIN from the 993 my engine came from to join PCA (not that I have ever joined in on anything, but I enjoy their magazine) 
I have to say I'm a prouder member of PCCA.
Back in the 90's I subscribed to the British classic car mags. I vaguely remember there being a big controversy about a restoration of a famous classic from a few parts. It's been so long I don't remember details. It was either burned up in a fire or recovered from a Swiss lake, and all that remained of the original car was like, a brake rotor, part of the steering wheel and the engine block.
The "restoration" was done from there and represented as the original vehicle.
I think something similar happened with a factory team 250 GTO, too, once they became worth $15 million.
Someone needs to restore that 50's actor dude's Original Spyder from the remaining transaxle...
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@Thor-bob posted:It's a safety thing....... the dash reflects in the windshield and reduces clarity of what you should be looking at. I be working on a dash cap held on by Tenax snaps, which hopefully won't scratch the paint. The stuff that needs shielding doesn't stick out too far..... the dash gauges are almost at the limit, just past the dash top edge.
Thor-bob
I read over on the Spyderclub ....
[quote="YamaBice"]Matte black contact paper. It's actually vinyl, not paper, and it's got a flat-black finish. Plus, the adhesive is low-tack so you can remove it easily....[/quote]
@edsnova posted:I think that's vinyl. Whoever re-did the interior probably had some left over and figured it'd be a cool upgrade.
I read over on spyderclub....
[quote="gotowo"]There were a number of original US delivered spyders which had coloured dashes - I know at least 3
[/quote]
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Revision......... gonna just use gaffers tape - the snaps need to be free for the tonneau cover... D'oh!
Maybe pics to come,
Thor
@Thor-bob posted:Revision......... gonna just use gaffers tape - the snaps need to be free for the tonneau cover... D'oh!
Maybe pics to come,
Thor
I would advise against Gaffers tape. The adhesive is so strong there’s a chance you will lift paint if you remove it and the sun will dry it out and bake it on.
I’ve used it for a lot of stuff and it’s not really a good permanent solution, especially if exposed to UV light.
But it won't blow off at 130+, right? Like that Mercedes drafting another car, then doing an endo - up, up, annnnnnnd over the wall into the forest below.
Black Post-It notes then. Or a beach towel.
How about vinyl wrap? That should be pretty easy for a wrap shop to do.
Capital Idea Danny! Unlimited patterns too...... leopard spots, purple zebra skin......
I will look into that today.
Pimp my spider!
Thor-bob
@Thor-bob posted:But it won't blow off at 130+, right? Like that Mercedes drafting another car, then doing an endo - up, up, annnnnnnd over the wall into the forest below.
Black Post-It notes then. Or a beach towel.
Not until the sun/heat dries the adhesive and bonds it to the paint and de-bonds it from the fabric.
“Or a beach towel”. That gives me an idea: how about a med-dark DashMat attached with some 1/2” squares of Velcro.
If you do that, why not use the tonneau attachments on the dash to affix the dash cover? That way no adhesive is involved.
@Lane Anderson posted:If you do that, why not use the tonneau attachments on the dash to affix the dash cover? That way no adhesive is involved.
Two heads > One. 
I forgot to edit my above post to add this before it was too late:
I suggested a dark cover because when I bought a grey DashMat to compliment the grey interior of my 968, I was thinking the fabric surface of the felt would make for less reflection than the hard plastic of the dash.
It wasn’t. In fact it was somehow worse. So much so that I never really installed it. I keep it rolled up in the cubby and only use it when I park my car in the sun.
My advice: Make sure your dimmer works well(you may need to replace the headlight switch or actually WIRE the dimmer properly). Dim the lights as much as you can and suck it up. The gauges reflect in the windshield. Get over it. I did. I don't even see the reflection now, not even at night when it's raining and the top is up.