Spyder front beam height etc

Take all the small leaves out of the top tube. That will lower the spring rate (not ride height) to better match the weight atop it.

Install the adjuster such that you can move the suspension up or down. The stock Spyder beam position is good; you might want to lower the ride height a little from there, but not 7 (or even 4) inches. You may want to pick it up a little. You won't know until the car is all done.

Fab up some brackets and install a small—12-14mm—sway bar on the front. That's about what the originals had, and it works well.

—oh, and one more thing: while the beam is apart, shine a light or put a borescope in it and make sure all your inner bushings are present and intact. Unlikely as it sounds...there was a time when this was a problem.

I have a different take on this.

My Spyder weighs 1500 pounds. A stock Beetle is about 1800, right? So 300 pounds total difference, and 45% of that is on the front. The difference in front end weight load is 135 pounds or so. I'd recommend leaving the leaves alone.

If you have sporting intent(like me) I'd think the lighter car with stock leaves would actually slightly INCREASE the spring rate, for free. If you can find Koni shocks for the front, that is an excellent choice. Decent ride but still firm and controlled without rattling your fillings.

I also made and installed a 5/8" anti-sway bar, and it's JUST RIGHT, like porridge. The factory VW 12mm bar is too light and the EMPI 19mm(3/4") bar is too much.

Like I said, if you have sporting intent or drive your car with anger(at least occasionally) you owe it to yourself to have a little sporty in the handling.

Definitely check the bearings as Ed does, but I also slide the trailing arms in with no springs and check for play. If there is any, replace the bushings.

I also agree on using the stock adjuster spot so you can go up or down. Weld them in at half adjustment so you can go up OR down. Stock or slightly lower is where you want to be.

Thanks guys, sounds like we're all on the same page. I'm not sure how much this car will weigh when finished, or what the weight distribution will be, etc.

I definitely don't want to run it radically low, I just want some adjustment either way.

The bearings and bushings seem to be in excellent condition. I'm leaning towards leaving them in there. I'll just have to do a really good cleanout of grease and then thoroughly flush the two halves of the beam towards the cut end to make sure there's no grinding debris in there. 

Konis sound good, I've had them on my old Alfa and MX5 and was very happy with them in both cases. Is there a particular model that is recommended for a Spyder?

You want stock length VW shocks, not for lowered on a Spyder.

I'd also bet you'll be 45/55 F/R weight distribution, plus or minus about 3%. You'll also end up somewhere between 1400 and 1700 pounds, depending on powertrain and additional framing.

@DannyP posted:

You want stock length VW shocks, not for lowered on a Spyder.

I'd also bet you'll be 45/55 F/R weight distribution, plus or minus about 3%. You'll also end up somewhere between 1400 and 1700 pounds, depending on powertrain and additional framing.

It'll be interesting to see what I end up with when it's all done. The Subaru motor and box is a tad heavier than the VW options. I'll also have a radiator up front. There's also a fair bit of extra frame going in as you know.

Even with modern lightweight air in the tyres it'll still be heavier than a basic aircooled Spyder.

I don't know exactly how much more it will weigh, but it will most probably be in the 1600-1700 range. The Suby motor and radiator and coolant doesn't seem to add as much as most of us would think.

Subaru SOHC weighs less than a Type IV. I put mine on a scale last time it was out of the car. It's maybe 20-30 lbs more than a Type 1 VW, with fluids.

@edsnova posted:

Subaru SOHC weighs less than a Type IV. I put mine on a scale last time it was out of the car. It's maybe 20-30 lbs more than a Type 1 VW, with fluids.

Thanks mate, that's interesting to know.

I think the Subaru transmission is a little heavier too. I'm not too worried about the car weighing a bit more though. There'll be enough power to move it down the road