What do we think of these pedals? Obviously the accelerator pedal will need mods to work with a mid engine, but that's no biggie. Anything else I should consider that I haven't?
Attachments
Images (2)
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
These look really nice. Expensive, but nice. You could lose the bellcrank on the throttle and pull directly from the pedal.
I actually thought they were pretty cheap 😬
That's $630 Australian, probably about $75 in US$ 😄
I like the Vintage and Fibersteel options, but they're way more expensive
It isn't $75, but yeah, it's really not a bad price for what it is.
I am thinking of buying them for a new Formula Vee project.
So, thanks!
Looks like you'd need some narrow racing shoes to use those. Great for heel-and-toe, but tight for regular driving.
$628 AusD = $402.63 USD
That's a deal. How much to ship? That's probably not a deal.
@Stan Galat posted:$628 AusD = $402.63 USD
That's a deal. How much to ship? That's probably not a deal.
$155 AusD/$100 USD to Speonk, NY.
@Lane Anderson posted:Looks like you'd need some narrow racing shoes to use those. Great for heel-and-toe, but tight for regular driving.
Maybe you should have your surfboards trimmed?
Don't you have the same frou-frou special driving shoes as Martay?
I usually drive my Spyder barefoot. The Spyder pedals are not much farther apart than these.
Nah, haven't gone the frou-frou shoe route yet. I did get some mesh-back leather driving gloves for the Coupe, though.
That's a nice pedal set but the reservoirs are going to be hard to get to if there's no provision for making them remote.
@edsnova posted:That's a nice pedal set but the reservoirs are going to be hard to get to if there's no provision for making them remote.
Something to think about 👍
Are there other options you'd recommend (that don't require me to sell a kidney to fund the purchase) ?
@550aus posted:Are there other options you'd recommend (that don't require me to sell a kidney to fund the purchase) ?
Eh, you only need one of them anyhow.
@Stan Galat posted:Eh, you only need one of them anyhow.
The trick is knowing which one to keep 😉
@edsnova posted:That's a nice pedal set but the reservoirs are going to be hard to get to if there's no provision for making them remote.
Hmm. A tap, drill, hose bib fitting in the existing cap and put them where you want.
There are MANY options for triple reservoirs available.
My Vee came with Tilton masters, which use this as an example:
@DannyP Do you know which one of those adapters will fit on our clutch reservoirs on our Spyders? I've been wanting to do this since day one.
@550aus posted:Something to think about 👍
Are there other options you'd recommend (that don't require me to sell a kidney to fund the purchase) ?
I made mine based pretty much on these. The hassle was in adjusting the existing bulkhead to properly locate the pedal frames and master cylinders.
This product, based on the stock Bug pedal set, will probably work well with the existing bulkhead and look the part—espeicially if you go with a floating floor. Converting the clutch to hydraulic would be simple as well.
Neither would necessarily be better than what you're looking at. Just a matter of style and the amount of fabrication you feel like doing.
Attachments
Images (1)
@Carlos G posted:@DannyP Do you know which one of those adapters will fit on our clutch reservoirs on our Spyders? I've been wanting to do this since day one.
Carlos, just use the cap you have or buy a spare Wilwood. Drill and tap for 1/8" pipe thread and buy the appropriate brass/nylon hose bib. Make sure to cut a hole in the center of the rubber seal so fluid can flow.
In my opinion, a remote clutch reservoir is unneeded.
I always change the brake fluid and clutch at the same time. I already have the LF wheel off. With the small reservoir, less fluid is needed to flush the clutch master. I usually wipe the inside of the reservoir out too, sometimes there is black gunk in there.
To fill, I saved a small brake fluid bottle and have a short clear hose on top to fill the master with a squeeze. I used a tapered nozzle from a gear oil bottle to make the connection leak free. It really doesn't take much to fill.
@edsnova posted:I made mine based pretty much on these. The hassle was in adjusting the existing bulkhead to properly locate the pedal frames and master cylinders.
This product, based on the stock Bug pedal set, will probably work well with the existing bulkhead and look the part—espeicially if you go with a floating floor. Converting the clutch to hydraulic would be simple as well.
Neither would necessarily be better than what you're looking at. Just a matter of style and the amount of fabrication you feel like doing.
Thanks Ed, they're both nice looking options, but the Vintage set would be $1000 in Australian dollars inc shipping and the Fibersteel pedals are close to $2000.
Looks like the two Mtr. Cyls. are different size's and some sort of bias bar between the two cyls. That bar appears to be sitting at an angle. Does that suggest that there is a rubber bushing in the brake pedle arm that allows variations in application force between the two Mstr. Cyls. ? Kind of weird . I wonder if it works. Also, I don't understand what the big "U" shaped bend in the throttle arm is for. Plus it looks like the mechanical movement of the output arm will be moving in the opposite direction than what is needed in a VW throttle operation. VERY cool looking tho............Bruce
@edsnova posted:I made mine based pretty much on these. The hassle was in adjusting the existing bulkhead to properly locate the pedal frames and master cylinders.
This product, based on the stock Bug pedal set, will probably work well with the existing bulkhead and look the part—espeicially if you go with a floating floor. Converting the clutch to hydraulic would be simple as well.
Neither would necessarily be better than what you're looking at. Just a matter of style and the amount of fabrication you feel like doing.
I really like those Ed. Well done.
Complete aside -- and it's a question, not a statement of opinion: why do so many guys use hydraulic clutches? It seems like a lot of complexity for something pretty easily handled with a cable. I realize that there's some torque multiplication that happens, but I've never had any issue pushing a Stage 2 clutch with my legs and I've got a fake knee.
I know the pull is backwards on a Spyder, but it seems like a simple bell-crank linkage or even a pulley would be less troublesome than a hydraulic system, especially given that the cylinders are generally aluminum.
Again, no dog in the hunt -- just curious.
@Stan: For a Spyder, the clutch cable needs to reverse with a pulley. It's bodgy as hell. Original 550s use a hydraulic clutch.
@Bruce: The curve is to avoid interference with the bias bar. I've never looked at one of these pedal sets but in the picture I think the MCs are the same and the bar adjusts the length of the plunger, which would allow a careful adjustment of free play to control when the pedal engages each system. No idea if it works but it sure seems like a popular design.
(edit: adding a gratuitous shot of the pedal set I took ~60 hours to make out of junk I had lying around the shop)
Maybe I can help here.
First of all, the clutch. The clutch doesn't need a pulley or bellcrank to reverse the pull. You can use a long looped Morse cable. My Formula Vee had one. It worked OK, but I had an extra 7/8" Wilwood slave and a 5/8" MC so I put the hydraulics in. It is actually a bit lighter pedal now, and takeup is better and more easily controlled. Feel only matters in the pits and grid area. On track you certainly aren't slipping the clutch unless you have an off. It is less like a switch now compared to before. I like it MUCH better. The problem with the cable was due to the rear suspension getting in the way of the cable mount. It couldn't be a straight pull, but with the slave it is.
The balance bar moves the push point within the tube at the brake pedal. This way by turning the adjuster you can give more front or rear bias as needed. A rotational flex cable attaches at the throttle end to a knob accessible by the driver for on the fly adjustment. Like when it rains and you push the bias towards the back to prevent front lockup.
Initial bias is set with all 4 wheels off the ground, and you need a helper or two. You press the brake pedal until the fronts JUST lock up. At that point the rear should be able to just be turned by hand with resistance. You can fine-tune from there. Obviously you release the pedal and turn a half-turn or a whole turn and check it again. It only takes about 5 minutes.
The master cylinders DO NOT have to be the same size. In fact I have a 5/8" front and 3/4" rear on my Vee using stock size drum brakes with Carbotech front and Porterfield rear shoes. I can outbrake most guys with this setup. Bringing them just shy of lockup gives great deceleration without too much pedal pressure. They don't overheat or fade in a typical 25-30 minute race.