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I have an annoying squealing from the front discs that comes and goes when I apply the brakes.
Some days no squeaking, other days it happens all the time.
I thought the pads might be worn out, but there's plenty of meat left on both sides.
The discs seem to have a glazed look to them.
I dressed the discs with 600 grit w/d sand paper and the squeaking went away, but now it's coming back.
Do I have cheap pads?
What pads do you use?

Thanks

Dave

1958 Intermeccanica(Convertible D)

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I have an annoying squealing from the front discs that comes and goes when I apply the brakes.
Some days no squeaking, other days it happens all the time.
I thought the pads might be worn out, but there's plenty of meat left on both sides.
The discs seem to have a glazed look to them.
I dressed the discs with 600 grit w/d sand paper and the squeaking went away, but now it's coming back.
Do I have cheap pads?
What pads do you use?

Thanks

Dave
I believe the squeeling is caused by a rapid vibration when the brakes are applied. The anti-squeel is an adhesive that keeps the pads from vibrating against the calipers. If we knew what the adhesive was we could just buy the adhesive...that's probably cheaper. My guess is silicone won't work.
The PelicanPart productI recommended is a piece of thin plastic backed by adhesive. The piston wears a groove into the plastic and that prevents it from vibrating. I have used this stuff for years and it simply works. You cut to the shape of your pad, peel off the adhesive liner and stick it on the back of your pads. It is that simple.

I do not work at Pelican Parts.

Mike
OK, pig's back in the trunk w/mouth taped, car handles fine again.

Will be installing anti-squeal product this weekend. Thanks for the recommendations.

Regarding the A/F meter - hooked it up no problems, it takes ~35 seconds to warm up - once warmed up indicated a ratio of 12.5:1 or higher? (blue light= highest rich indication), when I let the clutch out and took off slowly ratio dropped momentarily to 14.7:1, car "lean sneezed" a few times as it always does when cold, then went back to blue. Stayed at blue level the whole drive except when decelerating - then dropped down to 15.5:1.
Pulled over and screwed in mixture screws to the point where it was idling at leaner than lean best, and the meter indicated a ratio of 14.7:1 - while driving at this mixture the engine sneezed quite a bit and popped upon deceleration.
It would appear that the meter may be understating the richness, since the car doesn't perform well at 14.7:1.

Regarding Hawaiian air being heavier than "mainland" air, Hawaii, as I'm sure you can appreciate is a very humid place; my car runs very different from day to day depending on the humidity level.
My car runs worse on very humid days, but adjusting mixture screws is so easy, it's no big deal.

Dave


(Message Edited 10/8/2003 8:52:31 PM)
OK - it's important to make sure you have the right spark plugs, ignition timing, float levels, carbs sync'd, and full operating temp before checking with the A/F meter. You should not have to diddle with your idle mixture screws once they are set. Sounds like your idle jets might be one size too lean?
Barry,

You know the first time, and only, I took the wife for a ride, the first comment was that there was a slight squeel from the discs in front. But I'm used to this now, beside she has better hearing than I,(didn't have my hearing aids in). She reads my incoming and outgoing mail anyway so it would be a puzzel to which e mail I'm in the dog house for. Anyway, We've been living in the same house for 38 years now and she still tolerates my whims. I even kinda think she is liking the way the Speedster looks now!

Bruce, PS, just got the center counsol from JC Whitney this afternoon, first impression of it is, Cheap, but I haven't placed it in the car yet, guess you can't expect much these days for $26.95.
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