Standard VW spring plates (and torsion bar) vs. adjustable spring plates

Hi,

I recently took delivery of the shortened VW chassis/pan for my Chesil Speedster build. The chassis is set up for independent rear suspension. The chassis comes with the original VW spring plates (torsion arms) and presumably the VW torsion bar.

I know a lot of people modify their suspension and opt for an adjustable spring plate, like the ones produced by sway-a-away. I was wondering if someone could tell me:

1. What are the advantages of the sway-a-way or another adjustable spring plate (aside from setting ride height) and
2. Is it worth replacing the spring plates and buying a new torsion bar?

I didn't think the chassis was going to come with the torsion bar and spring plates included and had planned to change it but just wanted some opinions before I go ahead and do it.

Thanks,

John

I had thread earlier where I had asked similar related question - I adjusted the torsion bars on mine but noticed that one side sits near 1.5" different in hieght with the body now mounted. It appears the adjustable spring plates only give you like 1/4" fine adjustment either way. My chassis is a '72 which has the dual spring plates and all the aftermarket adjustable ones appear to be single plate. (There are like 3 different plates too depending on axel length). I've decided it's not worth expense/effort for such minor adjustments.

I too have noticed that you can buy different torsion # bars too. I could see where they would be helpful in making for a smooth ride ro a really stiff ride for off road. My take was the Speedster is about the same weight in rear as was the Bug sedan so the standard orange ones are probably fine to use (assuming other # ones are color coded).

Here

That 1.5" difference can be adjusted via the torsion bars. Remember, the outside of the torsion bar has 44 splines or 8.18 degree's and the inside has 40 splines or 9 degree's.

Try removing the spring plate without removing the torsion bar. Move the spring plate 1 notch and you'll probably be sitting level.

If not, then you can turn them in combinations, for example,

- turn two splines down inside, two splines up outside, lose 1.6 degrees.

Just checked and apparaently the replacement torsion bars are measured by bar diameter (23-30mm) vice twist pounds. Stock ones are 22mm.

I can't remember all the suspension tweaks, but see if there's anything to be gleaned from this thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=222251

Thanks for the replies guys. S Slater that video was just what I needed, it puts the Haynes manual into context very well.

John


-----------------------------------------------------
Chesilbuild.com - build site for our Chesil Speedster

Look under the "Knowledge" section on this site, too - ID 214

Good article - another one I read perhaps in one of the VW Performance books had you removing the axel and brake drum stuff. The one at Knowledge tab didn't mention any of that. Seems would at least need to pull clip on the brake line. With rainy weekend on way I might tackle job. Regretfully it looks like one needs to go up a lot and the other down just a bit.

No brake lines need be removed.

Remove the wheel/tire from the drum - leave the drum in place.

Release the hub from the spring plate (3 bolts) and swing the hub out of the way.

Remove the torsion bar end cover (4 bolts).

Jiggle the torsion bar end cap while pulling outward to release the outer end of the bar. To get the outer end off, jiggle and pull the end cap itself. To disengage the inner end, apply lateral pressure to the end cap to keep it on the end of the bar, then gently move the cap and bar together in a small, circular motion while pulling outward to disengage the inner splines.

Use the info in Knowledge to set the height you wish, or see the more detailed ride height articles on Speedstershop.com or the Shop Talk Forums. Total time per side if you've never done this before should be around an hour - if you're eperienced with this it takes about 20 minutes. I would strongly recommend reading the ride height article in the Speedstershop if you've never done this before.

Don't forget to make a reference mark of the spring plate versus something immobile on the chassis before you start so you'll know where you started from and can get back there if need be.

Email me if you need more info - be glad to help.

gn

I have been told to put drop spindles on ,Coz if you just drop it to its arse on the front it will naker the ball joints ?? is this correct ????Coz Ive put sway aways on & took out some t- bars to make it softer with the light weight body .Ive got IRS rear suspention with adjustable spring plates any coz u can get it set up better .If u look at most bugs in UK O/S side is always lower !

O/S side is lower??? Would that be passengers side? My bet is yours is low enought without the dropped spindles --- they will add 2.5" drop which is alot. Depends on tire size too.

I pulled the "Setting Rear Ride Height on an IRS Speedster" off http://Speedstershop.com

Great site if you never checked it out before! Need to generate some traffic there!

Wow - easy to read instruction with lots of photos. Great. After mashing on suspension front is same both sides and the rear driver's side is only 1/4 lower than passenger's side. So decided not to mess with it at this time and move on to next tiem on the check list. (I'm guessing when I measured last the front sway bar hitting the bumper bracket gave bad rear readings.

O/S in UK is drivers side RH ,so most of the heavy parts on this side ,starter,battery,stearing,& driver .Yep mine is low enough so I dont need them but do u no if it will rek my ball joints??& has any one took out T-bars before ???