Well- In the time honored tradition of the SOC, I
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Well- In the time honored tradition of the SOC, I
When they ask, you will still have to explain. LOL
Stan,
It sounds great. If you go with the wine interior what color for the top? Patrick Friel's IM was silver with the wine interior and it was beautiful!
What's up with the sand seal? I noticed your JPS had one. Is there a reason you have it?
Good luck with the build.
Terry
It sounds great. If you go with the wine interior what color for the top? Patrick Friel's IM was silver with the wine interior and it was beautiful!
What's up with the sand seal? I noticed your JPS had one. Is there a reason you have it?
Good luck with the build.
Terry
Steven- I'm not going to do any splainin'. The car is what it is- if anybody asks- it's a '58 Intermeccanica. Never heard of it? Too bad- isn't it neat?
Terry- The top will be black regardless of interior color. Wine is as far "out there" as I can go- I have not the courage for colors like your (seriously) beautiful selection.
As far as the sand seal- why not seems like the better question for me. I realize that the purpose behind a sand seal is to keep stuff outside of the engine, but they do a good job of making sure the oil mist (that always makes it's way past the "corkscrew" on the standard pulley) stays inside the engine as well. They invented decent seals some time after the Type 1 was in production, I don't see why I would NOT want one. I want garbage on the outside, oil on the inside. No runs, no drips, no errors...
Terry- The top will be black regardless of interior color. Wine is as far "out there" as I can go- I have not the courage for colors like your (seriously) beautiful selection.
As far as the sand seal- why not seems like the better question for me. I realize that the purpose behind a sand seal is to keep stuff outside of the engine, but they do a good job of making sure the oil mist (that always makes it's way past the "corkscrew" on the standard pulley) stays inside the engine as well. They invented decent seals some time after the Type 1 was in production, I don't see why I would NOT want one. I want garbage on the outside, oil on the inside. No runs, no drips, no errors...
Stan,
Congratulation on the new endeavor. You will be very pleased with the results. As great of a car as you had, the IM will eclipse it in every way, including price! LOL! But seriously, sounds like a great combination. BTW, I do appreciate the conv D vs. the Speedster I had, it is really comfortable to drive, ingress and egress is far easier as is the vision out of the car with the top up.
Congratulation on the new endeavor. You will be very pleased with the results. As great of a car as you had, the IM will eclipse it in every way, including price! LOL! But seriously, sounds like a great combination. BTW, I do appreciate the conv D vs. the Speedster I had, it is really comfortable to drive, ingress and egress is far easier as is the vision out of the car with the top up.
Hey Stan, I thought everybody like that oil sana one gets when the oil drips out onto the muffler. And that terrific smell!
Hindsight being what it is, I do wish I had installed a sand seal as well. But every mechanic I talked with said they were more trouble than they were worth. At this point I think I'd prefer the dripless approach.
Since you're going without most of the badging, are you planning more of an outlaw-look like Scott Sloan's?
Hindsight being what it is, I do wish I had installed a sand seal as well. But every mechanic I talked with said they were more trouble than they were worth. At this point I think I'd prefer the dripless approach.
Since you're going without most of the badging, are you planning more of an outlaw-look like Scott Sloan's?
Terry- Re: the sand seal- I put the "no-machine" Scat sand seals and pulleys in my first two cars after I had them. This one is a machine-in seal. Touble? I don't know- the after-the-fact ones cost about $30 extra (if that). I hate drips.
As far as the outlaw look- I need more chrome than Scott does, although I do plan to go "capless". We'll see how it all works out...
As far as the outlaw look- I need more chrome than Scott does, although I do plan to go "capless". We'll see how it all works out...
Stan, I just got some vinyl samples from Veteranco. One of the samples (#329 Middle Red in Mercedes Benz or Porsche...I forget which)is a nice non-glare wine color...more of a moderate maroon. comes plain or perforated. Veteranco.com has the vinyl colors on line, as well as colors/samples of German square-weave, but I am sure you have already worked out your colors with Henry. Your car sounds awesome. Would it be impolite/out-of-order to ask what the ballpark figure is going to be? I haven't a clue what IMs cost, although I have been told that you get what you pay for, and I am presently waiting for IM to send me their brochure.
Barry,
My car's "MSRP" was 54k if it was to be ordered now. I bought it 4 mos old through Henry from the original owner. Henry put more miles on it than the previous owner. At my delivery at Knott's it had just over 1k miles. It has the CB 2110, a/c, pwr windows, leather, 3:88 R/P,rack/pinion steering, 4 whl disc brakes, heated seats, Blaupunkt stereo, full toneau in addition to small toneau cover (both are same canvas as top). Based upon my ownership experience with a pan based speedster (V.S) and this car, the driveability of the IM has the perfect marriage of the original 356 character and more modern driveability. Though expensive and with less pedigree than authentic vintage german vehicles, their modernesque driveability is undeniable. An IM can be used a daily drivers with little compromise.
My car's "MSRP" was 54k if it was to be ordered now. I bought it 4 mos old through Henry from the original owner. Henry put more miles on it than the previous owner. At my delivery at Knott's it had just over 1k miles. It has the CB 2110, a/c, pwr windows, leather, 3:88 R/P,rack/pinion steering, 4 whl disc brakes, heated seats, Blaupunkt stereo, full toneau in addition to small toneau cover (both are same canvas as top). Based upon my ownership experience with a pan based speedster (V.S) and this car, the driveability of the IM has the perfect marriage of the original 356 character and more modern driveability. Though expensive and with less pedigree than authentic vintage german vehicles, their modernesque driveability is undeniable. An IM can be used a daily drivers with little compromise.
I don't know Stan....had my 2110 set up to turn 6500 rpm (at least). Tell me you WON'T want to rev it past 5500......6500 sounds SO nice! You can have lots of torque and a higher rev limit. Smart choice on the valve size. I went with a CD box and a Mallory distributor....well worth the money. Going with a gas heater is also a very good idea. Forget those PITA heater boxes.
Talked to Henry at the Vintage Races (held at Mission Raceway), on Sunday. I missed Ron L. and company, as they all came on Saturday! DAMN.
Henry always amazes me....always ready to talk, and what a memory for names! (and cute kids too).
Ron
Talked to Henry at the Vintage Races (held at Mission Raceway), on Sunday. I missed Ron L. and company, as they all came on Saturday! DAMN.
Henry always amazes me....always ready to talk, and what a memory for names! (and cute kids too).
Ron
Ron-
The bottom end, and valve springs for that matter, could easily spin to 6500, and the combination may well make power there too. When the engine was dynoed, AJ did not want to take it past 6000, and as a result- got no readings. Regardless- wider gear spreads would only make either 1st gear too short, or 4th gear too long. I'm not a drag racer- I have limited tolerance for a useless first gear. On my 1776 equipped JPS- I could have easily started the car off in second gear without any real clutch slip- on a 2110, that gear would be of no use to me at all.
I may well spin to 6500 RPM on a shift- if I do, the engine will drop to 4000 RPM instead of 3500. I'm not worried about it- thats still right in the heart of the power. I think this will work well for me, given my terrain and driving style. They aren't drag racing gears- they are driving gears.
BTW: when are you going to break down and order a new car?
The bottom end, and valve springs for that matter, could easily spin to 6500, and the combination may well make power there too. When the engine was dynoed, AJ did not want to take it past 6000, and as a result- got no readings. Regardless- wider gear spreads would only make either 1st gear too short, or 4th gear too long. I'm not a drag racer- I have limited tolerance for a useless first gear. On my 1776 equipped JPS- I could have easily started the car off in second gear without any real clutch slip- on a 2110, that gear would be of no use to me at all.
I may well spin to 6500 RPM on a shift- if I do, the engine will drop to 4000 RPM instead of 3500. I'm not worried about it- thats still right in the heart of the power. I think this will work well for me, given my terrain and driving style. They aren't drag racing gears- they are driving gears.
BTW: when are you going to break down and order a new car?
I'm enjoying my V8 Miata (tons of torque and a great heater). Having said that, I did go for a ride in a 2005 Boxster this weekend. Very nice. I can probably afford one...in about five years (a used 2005 would be nice).
Stan: You motor sounds like a well thought out set-up. I don't see a spin on oil filter, are you planning to have one? Also, regarding your concerns about cooling at the low RPM's under your gearing choices have you considered adding a Type 4 oil cooler with a larger doghouse? I think Gene Berg has the set-up. I added this option to my SCAT built engine specifications while the motor was in it's final assembly and it is a very efficient cooler. The only time my oil temp needle goes above one quarter is on hot days while sitting in stop and go traffic on the freeway. I have heard windage trays are a fictional solution to the slosh problem. particularly if you have a good deep sump. Did someone advocate that you add windage trays? In my mind the sand seal is a requirement, particularly on a new build.
Nice car, Stan. and I agree. I boiught my IM used and it has every Porsche badge and is even registered as a Porsche but if it were up to me I would just go with the IM badges. I have a couple of brochures that I show to the droolers. They are blown away by the attention to detail and tend to agree this is as nice as the original and you can drive it!
But that is just MTCW.
But that is just MTCW.
Bill- The car will have a remote oil cooler and remote filter (I consider the filters a must on any car)- the cooler will be "just to be sure".