I've had my VS for a year. Recently, when I start the car, there's an initial delay before I hear the engine turn over. Or, I'll hear a short grinding of gears just before the engine turns over.
Can a vet point out to this newbie what I need to do to fix this?
Thanks!
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starter if ur lucky,,flywheel if ur not. starter may be loose, wrench it and see..
The starter may be failing at least the initial delay was a familiar symptom when mine died on me and the grinding sound as well.
The starter can be taken apart a repaired. For $75 many just go with a mass volume rebuilt one. It could be that current to the starter is not sufficient due to dirty/corroded wires or even just a dirty failing solenoid. Seems most "rebuilt" starters are just repaired (only the failing part) , painted and resold. If it is not addressed starter quickly, the starter gear gets ground up --- or worse case grinds up the gear on the flywheel then engine has to be removed and flywheel replaced
I'll bet the starter shaft bushing in the bell housing has worn out. I would try an automatic stick-shift starter, it will bolt right in. I bought mine at orielly auto parts.
90% for sure it's a starter issue, check to see if you can snug it first but you'll probably need to remove it checking the flywheel teeth . The good news is you can buy a good rebuilt from Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts for just $45.99 w/ $16 core charge ! DO get the starter for an Auto Stick VW Beetle (it's not in their store but 1-2 day from their Whse.) It's interchangeable with the stick shift starter. It has a more torque and has the bushing built into a nose cone on the starter.......That's all I use. " Drclock"
Well that should keep it ticking...
Guys, you're awesome. But, you know that, right?
I've put 11,000 km on the car this year. Is this normal wear and tear for a starter?
OEM ones seemed to have lasted 20+ years or so. A year is not normal at all. If you engine is higher HP it probably takes more to turn it over - plus it could generate more heat that designed for too. The quality of many rebuilt starters, generators, and alternators --- even new Chinese one is questionable. I'd clean all your connections (start and battery plus grounds) - add dielectric grease to connections then see if that fixes it - if not remove starter and see if you can find obvious issue. You might be able to find an old school place that can test it but if you can find the AT starter inexpensive with a lifetime warranty I'd do that. Just remember that lifetime is not really lifetime - so keep the receipt.
"I've put 11,000 km on the car this year. Is this normal wear and tear for a starter?"
Not with the original VW ones, but the Chinese reproductions are junk (as you now know!) The Originals often lasted 100,000 miles, the Chinese ones maybe a quarter of that.
You could get the one you have rebuilt (usually around $75) if there is an automobile electrical/starter repair shop nearby, or you could go the VW route at Bug City <that's their link) but the originals will be $100 for a tested, used Auto-Stick and over $200 for a New Old Stock one. Used and new regular VW starters are each about half that money, respectively.
You could get an IMI High Torque starter for just a little more than that nos auto-stick starter.
Yup. And it spins the engine over nice and quick too. And is VERY resistant to heat-soak.
""It's just a VW. How much could it cost, really?"-- famous last words
I am still using the relay I added for my old starter with y IMI.
I'm going to Pierside Parts in Huntington Beach, tomorrow. They service bugs and were a supplier of VS. I'm not surprised about quality from Mao's worker paradise. There are a bunch of people down in Ladera Ranch who paid top dollar at the peak and have water leaks in their homes due to cheap Chinese copper.
Days have their ups and downs. The folks at Pierside Parts are experts, that impart great advice. That was the highpoint of the day. I bought the IMI high torque starter. If I ever upgrade the 1600cc, I won't be replacing the starter.
I attached a picture of the proper orientation. If you do it the wrong way, you'll come nigh to pulling a spleen. So, after putting it in wrong, then installing it correctly, I discovered two things : 1) part of the wiring that attaches to the starter solenoid had fallen in the gap between the starter and the fly wheel; and 2) another wire that attaches to the starter solenoid is not long enough to reach the post.
This is where I give up.
The wiring floats above the drive train and below the back seat. So how do you access it? The wire that got pinched is exposed and compromised.
Anyone know a mechanic in the Irvine / Lake Forest area?
Access the starter by removing a rear wheel, the two wires run directly from the ignition switch so you'll have to slice then to extend then at the starter .
I came off the roof. I'll wrap the one wire with electrical tape. The other wire has been snipped. I'm going to match the gauge with a length of wire I buy. Then I'll crimp the existing and new wires together. Finally, I'll crimp the metal hoop onto the new wire.
The top starter bolt has a D-shaped head. With the original starter it's kept from turning by a step in the flange.
The high-torque starter doesn't have this step.
I used JB Weld to stick a square key on the flange to restrain the bolt.
Also, if I recall the bolt replacing the D-bolt needs to be longer. I have one if you need a measurement.
Michael McKelvey posted:You could get an IMI High Torque starter for just a little more than that nos auto-stick starter.
And aren't they a fair bit lighter too?
I reused my D-bolt.
VS packed my speedster with a regular bolt on the original! You're right that the "V" that would trap the head of the Daddy bolt is not available on the IMI. @ALB, it's worth buying the IMI based on the weight alone. I'll say one more thing about pulling the starter. If you have T-Rex arms, this job will be a pain. There's quite a bit of torquing and pulling and pushing at arms length!
I'm still getting a delay and, when the starter fires, it does sound like your drill powering up, which is expected. I'm going under tomorrow to splice the frayed section. I'm thinking the electricity is getting impeded on that wire.
One last thing. This point is purely speculative. I drove 6,000 miles on a brand new starter. Glenn at Pierside Parts pointed out that the original starter had way too much wobble in the rotation. This was caused by the bushing wearing away in the block. Or, maybe the bushing was never installed in the first place!
