Started happening today...

For this first time, now when I floor it in 3rd or 4th I can spin the revs...... clutch slipping? Time for a clutch change? You think I can drive the rest of the summer (October) with this and have a clutch change as a winter project?

depends on if u have towing privledges.

Did you try adjusting the clutch cable?

Just came back from a boot and seems better. I think the clutch disc is starting to go and YES I do have towing service. LOL

I will look at the slack, seems I have a little more play in the pedal than usual. I did adjust it 5-6 years ago.

When I was climbing the 700 foot hill to the house I was givin' 'er all she got and it wasn't slipping. But earlier after a 3 hour drive it was....heat must also play into the equation.

Heat typically doesn't play too much in this scenario, either it's going to slip or not.. What could have happened is that the cable could have a burr or strand of wire that stuck somewhere withing the clutch cable system thus mimmicking you having pressure on the pedal.

Having more slack in the cable means more free play in the pedal which means that the clutch is engaging as best as it can under the circumstances. In other words, if the clutch cable were too tight, it may prevent the clutch from fully engaging (as if you had your foot on the pedal and were pushing down on the pedal a bit) Having the cable too tight will also cause the throw-out bearing to wear out prematurely.

So, the bottom line based on what you said is that you probably need need to do a clutch replacement. While you're there also replace the throw-out bearing

And if you replace it when it first stsrts you can save the flywheel and perhaps even having to resurface it. When abused - they turn a lovely shade of heat induced blue.

Mike,

Take a close look at the clutch arm while you are there as they do bend and or break over time. When in doubt, replace it with a more substantial aftermarket arm. ~Alan

Alan,

Indeed, everyone should take a look...

Michael, I think Alan was talking about the arm on the trans.

It looks like the pedal can be an issue too.

If the clutch pedal cracks or if the throw out bearing arm bends or cracks, the clutch won't slip as was described. The symptom of these problems are as follows: the clutch won't disengage the engine from the transaxle and it will be difficult to get the car into gear and when shifting between gears.

Besides the potential cable problems, if you have a lot of miles/years on the clutch, the linings could be very worn which will cause a reduction in spring pressure leading to slippage. Or the pressure plate could be weak from age causing the same. You could also have oil contamination from a leaking main seal or transmission input seal, but you normally notice chattering/jerking with that in the early stages.

I had a similar problem awhile back....clutch started slipping in 3rd and 4th gear...only got worse, on my 2109 small engine, about 120 hp or less. What was strange about it was I had put perhaps 25K miles on the engine/flywheel. No crazy driving, no burnouts, no real clutch abuse....

Changed clutch plate to new. Same problem. Changed pressure plate to Kennedy stage I. Same problem. Removed flywheel after discovering it had "cupped" and was no longer dead flat. CB Peformance lightened flywheel.....I replaced it with a new lightened Bugpack that a local shop had available, no shot at CBP intended.

New flat flywheel, worked like a champ....still don't understand that one fully...

Can't a flywheel be refaced? (I'm not sure of the "limits"...)

"Can't a flywheel be refaced? (I'm not sure of the "limits"...)"

Sure, but for $100 a new flywheel made more sense than pulling the Spyder engine one more time if it didn't work out.....R&R on the Spyder was a LONG job....and beside that, what caused it to cup in the first place, and what would keep it from doing it again? And it was at the lower limits of thickness already, which may have had something to do with the cupping too...