steering box

Hi ,Need some help from the gang. My steering has some slack, 2-3 inches . I have tried to adjust the steering box , with no luck. I've decided to replace the box as it has been about 23 years since it was installed in my car. It's from a '71 so it's 40 years old. Are there any tricks to removing the old box and installing the new . I had car aligned about 3k miles ago and don't want to disturb anything in that department. Thanks, Tom

Check the pinch bolt on the pitman arm too. Even being a little loose can cause a lot of slop.

Check the tie rod ball ends and spindle ball ends for ware ou have 2 adjustmen on that box the screw on top and the big thrust nut and cap screw on the forward end .

Check it all before you decide to buy anything Know wha you have Then get what you need.,

Tom.... If you do pull the box, mark the clamp as to which end is top and which is bottom..... This clamp is asymetrical so that it can be used in sedans or Ghias.... Improper installation will alter the steering shaft alignment and place undue stress on the "rag joint". And when re attaching the pitman arm, You can't get it too tight...And be prepared to retighten in about 6 mos....

I know the box is Kaput , has input but no output . Is it neccessary to remove the tie rods from the pitman arm in order to remove the pitman arm from the box output shaft or is there enough playin the tie rod joints to simply drop the pitman arm from the shaft? I do not want to disturb the wheel alignmemt.
Then when the new box is in will the pitman arm simply slide onto the output shaft or will I need to loosen/ remove the tie rod ends to reinstall the pitman arm ? Thanx, Tom

It's been a while since I swapped a steering box on a sedan, but let me try answering you;

Is it neccessary to remove the tie rods from the pitman arm in order to remove the pitman arm from the box output shaft or is there enough play in the tie rod joints to simply drop the pitman arm from the shaft?

There is enough tie rod play to drop the pitman arm while they're connected, but the pitman arm is often rusted to the output shaft and unyielding so you may need to heat the heck out of it and/or use an arm puller. A two-arm pulley puller should do the trick if it's really stuck - heat the arm for this, too. Once you get it loose, if it won't release because the tie rods are binding, simply loosen the box mounting clamps to get more freedom.


Then when the new box is in will the pitman arm simply slide onto the output shaft or will I need to loosen/ remove the tie rod ends to reinstall the pitman arm ?

The pitman arm only goes onto the output shaft one way, so you'll have to rotate input/output shafts to align with the arm so it'll slip on. Do this without the steering shaft coupler attached at first so you can keep the mounting clamps loose to get some additional play in the box to allow it to line up with the arm and vice versa. There are three inner teeth to keep the arm aligned and they are very slightly tapered to get it really tight (part of the reason it's hard to remove) so you'll need to line them all up and then it should slide right on. Lightly sandpapering the inside of the arm hole and teeth is always a good thing, just to clean it up. I don't recall the torque spec on that pitman arm nut, but it should be in your VW service manual. I wouldn't exceed the torque spec at first. It'll take a lot but it WILL stretch the threads if you really get on it and exceed the spec by 50+%.

If you're careful about keeping everything straight while doing this, then you can replace the steering shaft to the input shaft and it'll still be straight. If you mess up, then just loosen the clamp on the steering wheel shaft side of the coupler, pull it out, straighten it and put it back. I think the splines (shallow tho they are) will give you about 10-15 degrees of movement each.

gn

Stumbled on to this (anyone jump in to confirm if any disagreement):
http://www.chirco.com/tech_articles/?p=153

another:
http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/tighteningtorque.htm

Important: If your steering shaft has a crush cage, carefully check it for cracks or lines of rust, most of these are reused from a donor VW and need close inspection as they can snap with age.

So, then....the cracks lines and rust don't just give it "character"??

Well not exactly, I had "character" show up twice, once while loading a speedster on trailer right after Kim returned from a spirited drive (it just snapped) and the other was flat on the shop floor ...rocking the steering wheel (checking the steering and the cage cracked)
Steering shafts, rag joints, pitman arm bolts, all suspension components and the crush cages are one of the first things I check out on each speedster. I found that a lot of the home built CMC's had the steering columns bolted to the dash force bolted up against the underside of the dash causing alignment presure on the steering shaft, over time it weakens.
Try this, loosen the bolts that hold the column against the dash, if there is any pressure as you loosen the bolts, you need to address the issue.

Thanks guys, The new box is all in and car now goes where it's steered.
One thing I might add is that the clamp that holds the box on is indexed to the beam with two the notches. The beam has two tits. If you get all these lined up the box is much easier to install. tw

If memory serves (a HUGE assumption at my age) the use of those two tits for alignment depends on how your chassis was lowered. If you used lowered spindles, you are probably OK. If you used puma or avus adjusters to rotate the torsion leaves to lower the front beams, those tits are way off because of the new geometry. I had to grind my tits off (!) and rotate the steering box to get a straight alignment of the shaft to the coupler.

Just be aware. Enjoy.

"...had to grind my tits off..."

Yeeesh! Sounds painful, Dave.

I'm about to do the same thing, sloppy steering! Arrgg

Titties are there for a safety reason, if you relocate the box at least tack weld the titties back on the beam i.e. in the U bracket cuts to avoid a possible rotation of the steering box. ( Vince is get'n excited reading this)

My alignment guy tried to tighten up this box, it's pretty sloppy. Is TRW the brand to buy new? Any suggestions?

"...tighten up this box, it's pretty sloppy."

Oh KW, you are taking us down a dangerous path ;-)

Guess the hookers here aren't Vegas style!