Steering not centering

Follow the Bentley manual re:adjustment. Adjustment is easiest out of the car, and yes it is kind of a PIA to R & R the box.

Large nut first, small nut on top second. I have 1/2" play and plenty of self-centering on mine.

DannyP.  Thanks, is the Bentley manual available online or is there anywhere I could get that section?

I don't know. I bought a 66-69 Beetle manual, it covers everything except link pin front ends. The steering box is the same for all years, and it covers swing axle and IRS rear ends.

For the link pin front end, you'll need a 61-65 1200 manual.

@EugeneB

It's currently 9am here.  

Give me an hour to get organized and I'll scan the pages you need from Bentley and post them for you.

@EugeneB - Attached are the two pages on how to adjust your steering box from my Bentley manual.  

The steering box adjustment is exactly the same for link pin and ball joint.  It should be done with the car on a level surface (floor or drive-on lift).  I have found it easier to turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock by placing two Linoleum floor tiles underneath the front wheels at rest, one on top of another on both wheels.  The tiles slide against each other making the turning process a bit easier - And they're cheap.

The big locknut on the front of the box is a 41mm.  If you can't find a wrench, most DIY stores have an adjustable wrench that big in the plumbing section.  It's used to tighten the big nuts on sink drains.  to adjust the hex socket held by that big nut, I used a piece of 1" wide flat steel stock and bent the end at 90º to form a short wrench.  Loosen the big nut, put the short end into the hex and adjust.

To answer your other question, if either of the adjustments are too tight, the gears will bind and become tight, keeping it from returning to center when turned.  My money's on them being too tight.

Happy Holidays!!

To be clear: LOOSEN that little screw on to of the box FIRST. Then read what Gordon and Danny are saying and sending you. Then follow those directions.

Cranking down the “adjuster screw” to “tighten up the steering” is the number one way guys bugger-up the steering box.

Great thanks guys! I’ve found an adjustable wrench that fits the nut and will have a hunt around the workshop for some suitable steel to use on the hex socket.

merry christmas!

I welded a nut to a piece of 1/8" x 1" steel. The nut measures 7/8"flat to flat, which is pretty much the same as 22mm. The screw on the front of the steering box does indeed have a 41mm locknut, but the 12 point allen-type screw will work with a 22mm(or Gordon's 1" steel).

Caster:  The greater the amount of positive caster, the more self-centering and responsive the vehicle will be. Also, increasing positive caster will have the effect of increasing negative camber on the outside front wheel of the vehicle in a turn.

You say you've inserted caster shims.  Are your caster shims inserted for positive caster, not negative caster?

That's right.  The caster shims go behind the lower torsion bar tube.

RS-60 Mark, I fitted 5deg shims on the bottom tube as the certifier wanted more caster… I initially had 2deg shims and that was confirmed with the wheel alignment. I’ll try adjusting the steering box now I have made a tool to fit the hex nut. Thanks guys!

Surprised it's not been mentioned: toe-in should be set right too for tracking to be right.

Once I’d crafted a tool to fit the hex nut and made a few adjustments to the steering box followed by test drives, I was quite surprised in the feel of the steering, it now centres as per the manual and isn’t as heavy! here’s a few more pics…

Thanks for the help!

Onto the next bits on my fixit list for the certifier😉

cheers

hope you had a good holiday and New Year!

I'm glad you got it sorted.