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On the recent Tail of the Dragon Run I was privileged to have Lou (friend of Hoss' whose last name I've forgotten), a Porsche driving instructor, drive my car for a bit. I asked him for an honest opinion and the main thing he mentioned was that the steering ratio seems a bit slower than the real 356s he's driven. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to change the steering ratio in a VW steering box, or if it was feasible to fit a 356 box on a Speedster replica. I also explored rack and pinion, but none of the hotrod shops seem to know of an application that'll work on a VW-based front end. I know a dune buggy setup could be adapted like Cory did, but that's more work than I want to do. I'm wondering if there's a relatively easy, bolt-on improvement as I have nowhere to do much in the way of fabrication.

Formerly 2006 Beck Speedster (Carlisle build car), 1964 Beck Super Coupe

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On the recent Tail of the Dragon Run I was privileged to have Lou (friend of Hoss' whose last name I've forgotten), a Porsche driving instructor, drive my car for a bit. I asked him for an honest opinion and the main thing he mentioned was that the steering ratio seems a bit slower than the real 356s he's driven. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to change the steering ratio in a VW steering box, or if it was feasible to fit a 356 box on a Speedster replica. I also explored rack and pinion, but none of the hotrod shops seem to know of an application that'll work on a VW-based front end. I know a dune buggy setup could be adapted like Cory did, but that's more work than I want to do. I'm wondering if there's a relatively easy, bolt-on improvement as I have nowhere to do much in the way of fabrication.
I know of no "upgrade" kit to change the ratio of the VW box that you have, and I've seen original 356 boxes and the mounting tabs on the ones I've seen are different (although anything can be modified, but there might be diminishing returns).

The Super Beetle Rack and Pinion, or those fited to 411/412 cars should fit, but you might need a bracket fab'd for it.

Also, those made for dune buggies should fit, with the same caveat.
Hmmm... I wonder if the differences of the Beck frame might be an issue.

One of the reasons Carey doesn't offer it is that he's concerned about bump steer. Can someone explain how that would come into play? I would guess that the longer the tie-rod ends are, the less likely bump steer would be as the change in geometry would be less than with a short tie-rod end. Cory's rack had the tie-rods connected to a center mount rather than coming out of each end of the rack.

(DANG!! Hoss shoulda never let me drive his Subytub! Nice steering.)
Lane, please! It's Tubaru....we don't want Vince to get his hackles up do we? I know, Vince, hackle this. Thanks for the kind words about my steering. It is pretty neat isn't it? After driving yours I can say, from a layman's point of view, that it is pretty good and you probably shouldn't mess with it. Alan's right, as usual.
ps. It's Lou Livengood....his former '65 356 SC graces my photos on this site.
Lane...
As strange as this is...I just finished swaping out the steering sector box in the Spyder....Steering was somewhat loose during the run on the Dragon's Tail.....

A trick we used years ago on street rods was to alter the sector arm length to achieve either a "quicker" or "slower" reaction..... of course this also altered the torque required to spin the steering wheel......

Larry J. may have some input ....I've never done this with a VW arm...

Just a passing thought.....

Leon C.
Back in 1969, I had a Karmann Ghia and I installed the quick steering device that lengthens the pitman arm. It will, without a doubt require a complete front end alignment but, it did speed up the steering, even back then, they said it was for off road only but it seemed to work well on the street. (I believe it's a vicarious liability issue)

Additionally, when Carroll Shelby built the firt GT350's he installed a longer pitman arm to give quicker steering. On both clones that I built, I installed the same pitman arm and it really did make a big difference but it required much more force to turn the steering wheel, especially when parallel parking. The extra force wasn't an issue of the Karman Ghia due to the front being light.
To make it correct you would need the ZF-1 ratio porsche box like they also put on some mid sixtish Audi's.. Rarer than a 50 year old virgin.

But a good rack will also give you the same result. Im on the fence with this one. I have made a wider beam with a rack to go on the D to also lose the spacers. I don't know for certain if its geometry completly correct . But it is very close..

But unless your a pro ?

Alan is right it's very hard to beat the factory stuff.

P.S. Im no pro.

All too often I get a wild hair and have to improve the stuff that already is proven to work, this equals much time and relieving pocket jingle.
Driving the T'Bucket was kinda a fun chore, always had to take into consideration the crown in the road prior to standing on the throttle Never ever throttle up on a interstate ramp, she would lift and go straight...350 / 350 hp the front end regularly defied gravity :)
My mino is also a wicked beastie that has got me in trouble a time or two.

A 350 cnc circle track street monofied engine with 418 ponies. It will haul buggy better than any race horse..

Many upgrades and monofications threw out, All costing me a lot of time and money.

i often catch myself with a new line saying Keep it safe and keep it simple..
that has a certain Vw german sound about it. I may go ahead with the beam upgrade but after this last car going sower. I am very reluctant.
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