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Sorry if this is a silly question, I'm still new to all things mechanical (I'm used to debugging software, very different from a mechanical beast).

 

My steering wheel was getting loose (in the fore/aft direction) so I figured out how to remove the wheel from the hub adapter and see the big nut the holds to hub down onto the splined steering shaft/column.  I tightened it down as much as seemed reasonable and all was good.  I then found myself 50 miles later with the same steering wheel looseness.  I've now done this a couple of times and it keeps slowly getting loose again.  I have the correct size socket for the nut, but either can't seem to get it tight enough or am a little afraid of leaning on it and over torquing it.

 

Anyone know what the appropriate torque is for this nut and any tips to keep it torqued down?

 

Separately, about how much play is normal in the steering wheel (side to side)?  Love to find a way to tighten up the steering (although far from critical).

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Justin's right on with the torque setting and the recommendation of Locktite, but this is often caused by a dead top bearing on the steering shaft.  It won't affect play in a telescoping direction, but if it's dead it'll allow movement all around and quickly loosens the shaft nut.  If you can get the nut off and remove the steering wheel (which might need a puller to get the wheel off of the shaft splines) the bearing should pop right out using two screw drivers for leverage.  They're available in lots of places; Mid-America, CIP1, etc. and are made of conductive copper and stuff so that the horn will continue to work.

 

Try Locktiting the nut first, and if that doesn't work then replace the bearing.

CAUTION ! Have you checked the bottom end of the steering column where the flex fitting is ? The flex fitting can deteriorate and if your top end fix continues to need fixing, you may be pulling that flex fitting apart. Get under the car and look at the bottom end of the shaft. I checked mine out while examining the tie rod ends one time and got a real shocker...I grounded my car till the part came in. It's easy to install. Just a thought...

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

David, will check the bottom end of the column.

 

Any group thoughts on Loctite vs a "wave washer" which I assume is the lock washer with the cut and slight twist in it?

 

Wheel and hub just flops right off once the main nut is out, will take a look and see what I see with the top bearing.

 

By side to side, I mean traditional play in the steering.  You have to turn the steering wheel a bit before the car starts to turn.  The opposite of "tight" steering where when you breath on the wheel the car moves (like in the MINI Cooper S I used to have).

Don't know what the pitman arm is, but determined the slop is in the box that translates the steering column into the vertical shaft (looks brass and appears to have splines and a whole in the center) that turns the y-shaped lever that moves the rods that do the steering.  How's that for non-technical lingo.  Other than the slop when you first move the steering wheel, everything down below looks clean and solid.

Some swear by the belt & suspenders method in these matters.  It's great that you are doing some wrenching, but steering is only slightly less important than brakes.  It never hurts to have a more experienced person look over your work if it's your first time.  Measure twice, cut once and all that stuff.  The steering system won't likely fail when you are driving straight ahead. 

Sorry, been crazy at work/home.  Did the loctite, couldn't find a wave washer at Home Depot or Do-It Center.  So far so good, have a long drive this coming week so we'll see how it goes.  Thanks for all the help.

 

On the play, based on some online reading and "How to keep your Volkswagen alive" the play in my steering is within the normal tolerances (1" and my play is about 1/2 inch).  Guess I'm just too used to modern sports cars.

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