Oops!
Another mod for the new build.
The hits just keep on comin'..........
I have used clear nail polish to seal the edges of holes.
I made the mistake of using epoxy to seal the edges of the holes for my Tenax posts. It was very difficult to screw them in without breaking them, the epoxy was too hard for the screw threads to bite in.
My hood latch is exposed to the open bottom of the car. Can't it be reached from there?
I made the mistake of using epoxy to seal the edges of the holes for my Tenax posts. It was very difficult to screw them in without breaking them, the epoxy was too hard for the screw threads to bite in.
My hood latch is exposed to the open bottom of the car. Can't it be reached from there?
... and speaking of wanting to put gas in, but can't open the hood, just this week while in/near El Paso, I was beating my way back to the airport in a new Mitsubishi Galant rental, and was going to fill 'er up before turing it in. Pulled into the gas station and went looking for the button to push to open the fuel door. Said door was flush mounted on the body w/ no finger grip, so there had to be a release gizzmo somewhere, right? None to be found anywhere. No Operator's Manual in the car either. Tried pushing the door, thinking maybe it was a pressure-release sort of thing -- no dice. Asked two other fellows there if they had a clue, and none did. Ended up just leaving, and when I turned the car in explained my frustration. Tank was about 1/2. Avis agreed not to charge me for gas (would have been about $30 or more) and the gal showed me how it is done. No, there is no button or lever; Yes, you do push on the door, but just on one side, gently like this (you dolt!!, she did not say, but did not need to) and it tilts out neat as you please. DOH!!! BUT SHTOOOPID!!
Mike: I duuno; can it?? Go have a look and try to open the hood from outside w/out using the pull knob, then you tell me. I think it may be possible to attach a string or a nice tough cord and lead it out through a small hole in an appropriate spot. Then, if push gets past shove and you need to open 'er up, just pull the string -- not my finger. Anybody ever seen this?
One of my buddies grabed on to the ZF steering box out of the last basket case 356 we had. He replaced the old VW box with the ZF, pretty much a bolt in operation if you have the earlier tie rod ends on your car, other wise you will need the smaller dia rod ends used by earlier VW and Porsche 356's. It steers far better than the VW box, seems to have far less wander just driving down the road....they are not cheap but may be the best solution short of rack and pinion steering.....
I took my IM out for a short drive today. The steering is slightly better. I'll leave it for now.
I noticed that the steering shaft was rubbing on the top of the steering shaft tube that runs through the IMs body. This may be what is causing the heavy steering and the steering wheel not returning to center after a turn. I was able to adjust the steering box to give the steering shaft about 1/8" clearance. Not much, but I didn't want to change the steering box's angle (in relation to the steering shaft) too much. I'm not sure how much 'give' the steering rag-puck has.
If your car is a widebody and you have rims with more offset than normal? That can cause heavy handed stearing.
I had 3/4 spacers on mine and it did this.. Mine is not a wide body but i didn't like where the tires tracked.
I learned to live with that. to get the better handling. It's all about compromise..
I had 3/4 spacers on mine and it did this.. Mine is not a wide body but i didn't like where the tires tracked.
I learned to live with that. to get the better handling. It's all about compromise..
Mine has the standard 356 body - no flares.
I ran this tire/wheel combo when I first owned the car, with no steering problems.
I ran this tire/wheel combo when I first owned the car, with no steering problems.