Stengthing up the rear subframe???

I saw a speedster that had additional supports for the rear 2x2 framework .

They welded in a length of 1-1/4" box steel from each side of the 2x2 up to the top of the shock towers...sorry I don't have a pic.

Ben , Look at this site www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=50229
Its a traction bar system that bolts from the shock towers to the engine mount. I have one for my car. It does add additional support. Check your side firewall panels also to see if they are secured.

Part of the problem with this car is that the side panels are attached to the frame. The extra weight from the rear hanger bar has pulled the rear clip down some.(2299) Since I am running the Porshe 5 speed special mounts were fabricated and I don't have much problem with torque. 2298 shows how the sub frame comes off the main frame. I would like to tie this area together with the VW pan.

2296 shows the rear engine hanger.

I can see the weight concern by your pictures. The original CMC frame design apparently wasn't make for that setup. So here is a suggestion- Look at your supporting design sort of like a suspension bridge ie Golden Gate Bridge. You'll need a central tower two angular supports. The object is to hold the cantalevered( excuse the spelling) , the rear of the car with other vertical structures towards the front. I have done this by incorporating a small roll bar that mounted underneath behind the rear seat area. The angular braces are 1" CrMoly tubes w/adjustable hiem joints. Make it easy to tighten up . Look at the sketch below.

That's what I'm looking for. Never thought of making it adjusable though. Have you had it on the road with that configuration yet? Do the hiem joints rattle? Great Idea!

A rough design was on the road about a year ago. The doors never opened when I went over RR tracks. Over the last year I decided to do a complete rebuild after the motor locked up. The joints won't rattle while in tension. I'll post some more pictures later.

Joe,
I have made all the peices, modified the body and welded up the hoop. I can find the heim joints but not the bar part of the adjustable link. Did you make yours? Or where can I find them?

Ben

PS Measured for the traction bar system. Can't use it, the Porsche starter is too tall.

You can use VW beetle tie rods too!

"You can use VW beetle tie rods too! "

Wow, what a terrific idea! I NEVER though of going "there" but you right!

Thank you VERY much, Alan ! ! ! My eyes are opened . . .

TC

The tubes I used were chrom-moly basically for strength. The ends of the tubes have threaded caps welded into the ends. One cap is a left hand thread the other a right hand thread. Same with heim joints. So all you have to do is loosen up the jam nuts and turn the bar like a turn-buckle for adjustments. The parts are available at www.Chassisshop.com
Joe

Thanks Joe.

Alan,
I looked at the VW tie rods but one is too short and the other is too long,at least type one is.

Ben & TC

I stand corrected, I went in the shop last night and did a dry fit both the long and short tie rods, well in theory it made a cheap and easy fix, hence I was wrong .

Joe's post is a correct way to go. Alan

The only issue I had with the tie rod idea was that it would not be as ridged. The ball socket would have too much play. The turn buckle would allow you the tighten up the rear . It will stop the doors from opening when hitting bumps.

Alan: No biggie. It was worth a shot. Would have been cheaper than the $80 I spent on new radius rods and heim joints.

I have everything together. Here is some pictures.

Here is what I have done so far..

1) Cut relief

3) I made a mark on the frame at the firewall and set the hoop 1.5 inches in front of the fire wall. I then measured so that the supporting tubes would reach to the end of the frame in the back. It ended up 23 inches.

4)I then took the measurements I know form my right triangle (H=6", L= 23") and applied Pathagreom's theory and came up with the angles of 21 degrees and 72 degrees. and a length of 23 5/8in for the support. (Actually I used a handy, dandy website to figure the angle; Pathgreom's theory just sounds cool)

5) armed with this knowledge I made the supports. I took the buck and supports, set them up on the floor, measured back 1.5 inches (the distance between the firewall and hoop) and obtained the supports would pass through the firewall at 5" up.

6) I then cut 2 1/4 in holes in the firewall centered 5 in up from the frame.

7) I then scrounged metal from a buddy who I wired a hotrod for. He had some 1X3 box steel and 1X1 square tube. Sounds good to me, it