Sticking throttle?

I'm inching up on getting everything ready to go...after reconnecting the throttle (accelerator? Is my Model T stuff showing up in here?)cable, it won't "snap" shut - the throttle(s) won't return to the idle stops. Do I need a new cable? Is there some way to adjust the spring tension? Thanks.

I use two throttle return springs on each Weber plus another spring on the cable itself - total of five! The purpose is to take all the slack out of the mechanisms. It probably sounds like the throttle pedal would be real heavy, but that is NOT the case. Careful selection of the spring tension results in a throttle feel the same as in any new car.

If you get the return sprin(s) too strong, driving the car become a chore rather than a thrill....If you are running dual carbs., two light springs, one on each carb, should be plenty..... If you have been working on the car and have removed the throttle cable, even if only one end, check cable routing for any sharp bends or tight radius turns.... Gordon N. has a single spring, based on the original VW design...It seems to work well.....

Basicly, if it was working well before, check everything before adding springs....

Good luck....

The heim joints on the rods extending from the arms of the hex-bar linkage could be tight. Take the rods off, and check. If they are tight, it'll stick open.

"Sticking throttle"

Here's my sticking throttle story. On the way back home from Carlisle my throtrtle was sticking and it took an few seconds for the engine to slow down to idle---maybe 4-5 seconds longer than usual which was about instantaneous.

I was in Nashville and phoned Kirk at Vintage who said that it sounded like my coco mat was pushing on the gas pedal --that that was about all it could be.

Kirk's a frikkin genious because that's exactly what it was!

Check your coco mat--they're pretty heavy and get pushed forward by your feet driving mnay hours.----Jack

Everybody sing along now:

SHIMMEY SHIMMEY CO CO MAT - SHIMMEY SHIMMEY YAH!!!

Thanks for all the helpful advice. Here's my easy, though not particularly elegant, solution: a #61 spring from Ace Hardware, mounted on each carb.

Here is my sticking throttle story. After have my carbs replaced with 40 Webers by Vintage, my throttle would stick any time I was slowing to a stop. I would have to tap it a few times to get it to finally idle down. I couldn't see anything wrong, so I replaced the cable, but it still stuck. Finally, I took the carbs off and they functioned fine with the throttle slamming shut like it should. So I put them back on and tightened them and could see that without the linkage, the left one was the one with the problem. So, loosened the the two nuts and the problem went away. Tightened them again and the problem came back. Took the damn thing off and inspected the manifold and could see that it was not machined perfectly flush, so when I tightened the nuts, it would bend the carb body just enough to cause the throttle shaft to bind. Kirk sent me a new manifold and that solved the problem. I am still wondering if just putting a slightly thicker gasket on might have also solved the problem and if you have not tried putting on new gaskets, I would give it a try. If it works, then you can get rid of the extra springs.
Troy
PS. It's July and my rear end is showing. Check your calendars.

Troy, she's looking a little big in the hips.
Not that there's anything wrong with that ... I'm just sayin' ...

Yup Cory. Just the way us wide body guys like them!
Troy

Sir Mix-a-lot would love that picture.

"I like big butts and I cannot lie..."

I have some bumbers for the "fat bottom" girl for sale.

I have bumpers for mine, but I much prefer the nerf bars over the bumpers.
Troy