Finished do a brake bleed and pedal cluster assembly upgrade. Was so close to being done, but the last wheel I put on looks like I stripped the hub. My chassis is a 67 this is the rear passenger drum. What are my options at this point? New hub? If so anyone got a link? Follow up question, I am assuming I need to remove the Axle nut then change out the hub.
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Doesn't look like enough metal left to retap. New ones are $95 w/free shipping/no tx from CIP1.
Thanks Wolfgang, any thoughts on the rock auto one? It is half the price.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/mor...=1351774&jsn=400
No country of origin so suspect India or Far East. CIP1 says European origin.
Thanks says it is made in Europe might take a chance on it. Also, going to see if I can find one locally before the weekend.
If you order fromCIP1 you could get one of these at the same time:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...uctCode=ACC-C10-7036
There's a lot of torque on that big nut and these work great for getting the proper torque when putting it back on.
James, if you need the torque-multiplying tool Michael refers to above, I can ship mine to you and back for under $30 if you want, it really does work great!
Will
Thanks for the offer @Will Hesch. Ended up buying one and another drum. I am SOOO not looking forward to ever have to work on these drum brakes again. Reason enough to switch to discs in the rear.
Nice looking garage floor, James. Is it tile? linoleum? ...???
I am too cheap for race deck, so I opted for the peel and stick tiles from Home Depot. Couple hundred dollars and couple hours of my time and done. Had it for over a year now and no complaints.
James Garrett posted:I am SOOO not looking forward to ever have to work on these drum brakes again. Reason enough to switch to discs in the rear.
Yes. Yes it is.
Lot's of drum-brake lovers on this site. Not sure why.
You won't regret converting...
A lot of folks end up with wheel/tire clearance issue when converting to wide 5 rear disc brakes. I hear it can get quite expensive! Check if it adds to track and how much space you have available.
I am seeing the same issue.I have 185 and 5.5 wide wheels and swing axle, not sure I can make them fit
Use a keen sert. I had two strip out and they worked perfectly. Best way is with drum off and in a drill press or mill. If you are careful, you can do it on the car making sure you are drilling and tapping at right angle to the drum face. Use a shop vac when you are drilling so no chips get inside the drum and use grease when you tap it and you will keep the chips out.
The safe way to repair a striped hole is to weld it closed then drill and re tap. Personally speaking, for a few bucks and piece of mind, I'd opt to buy a new German one.
Alan Merklin posted:The safe way to repair a striped hole is to weld it closed then drill and re tap. Personally speaking, for a few bucks and piece of mind, I'd opt to buy a new German one.
I just drilled mine out and re-tapped to the next size up. Modern VW Golf size I think it was.
All this looks like the best argument for studs I've yet seen.
What’s everyone running for studs and nuts? For wide 5’s
Looks like these might work.
Well I may be a little late to respond. But here's my two sense. Stripping the threads is no big deal. Just put studs in the drum. One can spot face the inside of the drum and drill the holes for a press in stud. I done them for either 12 mm or 14 mm. When I drove my bug daily 280 miles round trip I was adjusting my brakes sometimes twice a month. Once I put studs in I never had another issue. You can buy the studs from either dorman or sway a way. Don't use the empi crap! Send them to me and we can do it.
Anthony posted:Well I may be a little late to respond. But here's my two sense. Stripping the threads is no big deal. Just put studs in the drum. One can spot face the inside of the drum and drill the holes for a press in stud. I done them for either 12 mm or 14 mm. When I drove my bug daily 280 miles round trip I was adjusting my brakes sometimes twice a month. Once I put studs in I never had another issue. You can buy the studs from either dorman or sway a way. Don't use the empi crap! Send them to me and we can do it.
I like this idea Anthony and thanks. Not knowing much about pressing in studs, could you please say a couple of words about the meaning and purpose of "spot facing the inside" ? Do these studs come in a kit with a special sized drill for their use like a helicoil kit would do ?
I've re-drilled and tapped several failed holes so far to 14mm bolts but your solution would be the final fix.
Spot facing (grinding the back side parallel with mounting face) ensures the stud is not seated at an angle when pressed in. You want the threaded part perpendicular to the mounting face. A machinist can do this with a mill/drilling machine.
WOLFGANG posted:Spot facing (grinding the back side parallel with mounting face) ensures the stud is not seated at an angle when pressed in. You want the threaded part perpendicular to the mounting face. A machinist can do this with a mill/drilling machine.
Just as Wolfgang commented on. The back side or inside of drum has a rough cast finish, spot facing is removing the material around the stud hole to a smooth flat even surface. Therefore each stud hole will have a even surface and the stud end flange stays straight or parallel. The studs come in boxes of five or ten from dorman. They are purchase separately from sway away. One must measure the OD of the splined area then drill a slightly smaller hole for tight press fit. That's the basics.
Be careful drilling the holes. When I did mine the drill bit got caught in the drum several times and started flinging the drum around. I didn't spot face and wish I had.
Michael McKelvey posted:Be careful drilling the holes. When I did mine the drill bit got caught in the drum several times and started flinging the drum around. I didn't spot face and wish I had.
Ok, Michael, I've done enough "I won't bother to clamp it down and I'll just hold it" (very stupid, guys; spend the time finding a clamp! even small parts can really hurt when the bit grabs and they spin. And don't bother asking how I know this...) on the drill press to 1- be glad that you never (seriously) hurt yourself (I'm sure you got "whacked" a couple of times!) and 2- know that just picturing it is really funny!
PS- @James Garrett- measure the diameter of the stud at the root of the splines- that's the size drill you need (or very close to it). For my rotors and rear drums with oe Porsche studs used 37/64". It does take a little bit to press them in, but then you know they're not going anywhere. And even if you drill them yourself, James, if you don't have the equipment to spot face the back sides, take the trouble to get them done, as the studs will sit properly and won't be able to work themselves loose. It doesn't take much; just enough so you know they're sitting flat. Al
thanks guys!
I had a bit grab (hand drill) once and it spun the drill wrapping the wire around the trigger...almost burnt out my drill.
