Stroker crank help ! ! ! !

Anyone know how to decipher the numbers stamped on aftermarket cranks?
I've got a stroked crank. H-beam rods, knife edged counter weights, came attached to a lightened wedge mated flywheel, makes my 74 look like a stocker.

It's got stamping of "D14776 AR 94-03-176" on the front counter weight. Need info on what stroke it is before I bring it to the shop to get polished.

The "D" might mean Demello, but not sure at all.

I'd think you could get a rough idea with your vernier caliper. Just measure centerline of a main journal out to centerline of rod journal and multiply by two.

Thanks ! ! !

Evil -- Just wondering, have you ever given any consideration to putting together an actual preconceived bill of materials for your engine build?

It sounds like you are on an el-cheapo expedition of collecting a mish-mash of cast-offs that is somehow going to all fit.

I'm not being critical, because I did what you're doing once myself. Guess what I learned -- stuff that doesn't fit, doesn't fit. In the end it all goes to the trash. Most important, in the end it cost twice as much and takes three times as long to try and go cheap as it would have if I did it right to start with. "Right" (for me and others) would have been buying a complete kit from CB (someone that actually knows what they are doing).

Suggestion: If you don't know what you have, don't use it.

You'd be correct if all of the mixed and matched bits and pieces that I ask for help with were destined for the same engine or even project. Right now, we working on six different engines. The project vehicles number around seven or eight, depending on how far your definition of "vehicle" stretches.

As for going for the cheap, it's really the only way to go for us, it's where ALL of the fun and challenge is. So VERY many parts are offered up for sale or trade just because folks don't go the distance, that it's hard to resist.

Take the 94 case for an example. Someone had the best intentions and ended up with a really nicely done flowed and welded case, cut for 94s but then got the wrong inserts. The case was essentially free, and after spending small change for a few small changes, it's ready to roll. Easily a three/four hundred dollar item for nearly zip. If I can sort out this crank, it'll result in a super sound basis for a 2165cc engine built with known good components. I'll be into it for $30 plus gas money.

What's not to love? ! ? !

Making things work or fit is the essence of making these weird little engines into monsters. I mean, building an over two litre engine, stroked to the point that you may have to remove material from the cam itself as well as the case and crank. THEN fitting it with a couple of Ferrari/Ford GT40 racing carbs and putting it on the street? Why not, especially if you scrounged the parts and traded for the labor. It's kinda what this hobby as ALL about. It's way too easy for me to just buy it, no fun to have someone build it. I like the problems, you know? It's fun, not frustrating. Building stuff in this way is much like the equivalent of stone soup. Start with a rock and some hot water, and see how far you can take it . . . start with a free case and trade something for a stroker crank, see how far you can take it.

Don't you still think like that? Maybe not . . . too bad.



Oh

Well spoken Evil. ;-)

Mike

ps.... Is this the infamous DR Evil who posts on the 914 world site also?

Thanks !

No, the 914 Dr Evil is a MUCH better man than I am. I've seen some of his door panels (diagonal pleats as I recall) in a car at the Museum of Transportation lawn event, and they were SUPERB ! !

When I owned the 914 I was an avid follower of his posts, I sold the car to concentrate on the Pre-A, but was offered it back just recently, I may go for it. I LOVE that model Porsche and the 914 site(s) are frequented by some EXTREMELY helpful folks. When you see one done correctly, all of the small touches taken care of, it's just SUCH an obvious Porsche, I don't see the lack of acceptance by some of the Chosen Few. A 1971 in Guards Red, black interior, center console, three gauges, leather wrapped steering wheel, and Pedrini wheel options. Lower door PORSCHE lettering in white . . . perfect !

Nice!! I am selling mine. Built a raby inspired 2056 for it a few years ago. Kinda over the 914, after 13 years, and want to focus on the speedy.

Mike

Evil -- I know what you mean about the adventure is in learning something for the first time. My comments were intended only to save you from making the same mistakes I did -- the first time. If you are in it for the adventure, then you are on the right course.

I am totally an amature. I built my engine (a heavy breather)three times. The first time was much on the same course as you are taking. That one lasted half way around the block before needing a new crank and flywheel. The second one was a "more educational" experience. The third one was basically complete tear-down and rebuild "just to make sure". That one has gone 15,000 plus miles, so far.

Too bad I didn't know you wanted junk stuff. After looking at it for nearly a year I just chucked a $150+ chromoly flywheel with stage 2 pressure plate and cushlok disc that probably had nothing wrong with them. On the way down to the Morro Bay event last year I was hot-rodding and sheared-off the flywheel gland nut (the one you are using, the "cheap" stock one). I could have reinstalled the flywheel, it seemed ok to me, and that seems like it would be cheap thing to do. But I wasn't absolutely sure the dowel holes did not become even the slightest ovaled. Because if they had, I knew from previous experience (half a lap around the block) that it wouldn't be long before the dowel holes in the $500+ crank would be ovaled too. So I wisely did what is ultimately the cheapest thing: Bought a new $150+ flywheel with new PP and Clutch and never worried about it further. Oh -- and I also spent a few extra bucks for a Scat chromoly gland nut, so I don't need to worry about that either.

On second thought -- be glad I didn't give you the flywheel. Even though I honestly felt it was probably ok, what if it wasn't????

What you should have done was to send the pressure plate and disc back to Kennedy. They will rebuild their products "cheap" Seems to me the pressure plate rebuild cost is $50.00 and the disc is $25.00?? I've rebuilt several and they work like they were brand new.

As a foot note to above: Evil -- somewhere in your text above you mention griding on the crank for stroke clearance. I am not a professional, but I don't think grinding on what would have been a previously balanced crank is the correct method of clearancing.

And, as a second footnote: Did you know that you can buy new cams in the popular models that are already stroke clearanced at the factory? For less than 100 bucks? I learned that myself after already grind clearancing a cam. I should add that it was a cam of mysterious origins that I had "acquired" during my el cheapo phase. When I split my case after the first engine failure I replaced that cam with a known product, already preclearanced -- ae: money well spent.

Thanks for the tip Larry! Folks on this site probably don't know that whatever bad experience I've had in engine building is my doing, and whatever good experience I've learned is your doing! LOL.

Let's not remind them some of the things I've done!

Anyway, there was absolutely nothing wrong with the PP and clutch, other than almost 20,000 miles (if YOU can believe I'd ever get that kind of miliage out of my build!). There was nothing wrong with the throwout bearing either. But I had the trans split from the case, it would have been crazy to not take advantage of the moment and replace the PP, clutch and T.O. I possibly could have sent the flywheel out for redrilling but I wanted to get back together quickly.

All together; $140 for a new flywheel, $145 for new PP and clutch, $30 for a throwout bearing -- for barely 300 bucks I'm outta there with everything all top notch and new withing 2 days UPS shipping. Maybe it could have been done cheaper, but not better and not faster, and $300 isn't THAT much money.

Oh, I forgot, there was the $28 to replace the gland nut, which was the only part that was actually broken.

I was lucky, the crank came with a Chromoly gland nut and H-beam rods, so I kinda lucked out. Plus the wedge mating will probably prevent things from ripping apart if I end up beating on it. My buddy is making us a bunch of those pulley "nuts" with the swaged hole in it that accepts a 3/8 ratchet handle so I've got both ends covered.

Oh, the crank ended up being a 78mm; it'll fit in the case without a ton of fuss.

Still poking around for some decent used heads, so this will probably get built and bagged as a partial long block (out to the barrels) then put on the shelf 'til later. Came across a cheap nitrous fogger plate to put under the carb on the Johnny's Four Skin manifold that I grabbed. Ed used to install NOS systems so he'll take it from here once we locate the heads. It'll be a good engine to beat to death since it's been pretty much a gift so far, you know? We actually found two NOS bottles with the valves at the dump and had one re-certified and filled at Epping last year, so we're pretty much good to go. Our dump is like a high end mall most of the time, seriously beyond belief until you've been there. Last great dump score? Three eight inch wide Porsche five spoke Fuchs alloys, with caps. OK, they WERE painted white, a bit this side of lame-assed, but still . . .

Build it out of junk and THEN pump it full of nitrous? Careful, Evil, you might run afoul of some of them new-fangled terrorism laws!