Subaru engine code

Yeah, we never have to do anything like that on our aircooled engines, Ray.  Quickjack or no Quickjack….     🙄

Well for that I gave myself a like

@Gordon Nichols posted:

Yeah, we never have to do anything like that on our aircooled engines, Ray.  Quickjack or no Quickjack….     🙄

I think the worst problem I’ve had on my Spyder was the PO put the Weber carbs on with standard 13mm nuts. 2 of them on each side were a regular PITA, but one in each side took a combination of 1/8 turn with an open end wrench, tap, tap, tap with a screwdriver and a hammer, 1/8 turn, rinse and repeat.

When I installed the rebuilt Dells, I used the proper 12mm special nuts and now there’s only one that’s a little bit difficult.

Even better, I think CB sells manifold-to-head nuts that are 11mm for even more clearance!

@Gordon Nichols posted:

Even better, I think CB sells manifold-to-head nuts that are 11mm for even more clearance!

Yup.  I used those and they helped a bit.

And JayCee has ones with 10mm 12-point heads, for even MORE clearance. They have a nice thick washer-like shoulder.

Well, I thought I had it fixed but out came the code again so tomorrow a new oil sensor  goes in, should be easier   Update after

@Gordon Nichols posted:

Even better, I think CB sells manifold-to-head nuts that are 11mm for even more clearance!

We’ve had this conversation before. I may be mis-remembering again. I know there’s a special manifold bolt for Weber/dells that the flats are 1mm smaller than a typical nut for the size/thread pitch. I always default to 13 vs 12, but it’s probably 12 vs 11.  
I bought a box of them and a box or proper copper exhaust lock nuts from Au-Ve-Co back in the 90’s when I was working on my 912 and I’ve never looked back.

"...but it’s probably 12 vs 11."

I think you're right, David.  That's how I remember it now.

I think Webers or the manifolds come with 12mm(wrench size) nuts, makes it easier to lock them down to the manifolds.

Both carbs and heads have 8mm x 1.25 threads.

I know I've had to clearance every single aftermarket manifold I've ever installed on a type 1, whether for single or dual throat carbs on the head end.

I found some 12mm thread nuts that drive with a 10 mm socket for the manifold. Those and a wobbly extension, and the deal is easily done.

@El Frazoo posted:

I found some 12mm thread nuts that drive with a 10 mm socket for the manifold. Those and a wobbly extension, and the deal is easily done.

Tardis nuts?

The nuts I have I can do 3/4 with a wobbly socket I have, the fourth seems to work best with a long socket. It’s pretty easy with the smaller bolts.

@El Frazoo posted:

I found some 12mm thread nuts that drive with a 10 mm socket for the manifold. Those and a wobbly extension, and the deal is easily done.

You must mean 8mm.

I'll check. Pretty sure not 8, that's really small.

Kelly, the thread is definitely 8mm x 1.25mm pitch, obviously the wrench size will be 10, 11, 12, or 13mm. All are available and are used to good effect.

The EARLY(1965 and down) single port heads had tiny 6mm x 1.0mm studs to secure the manifold with a crushable metal washer/seal. Even the early single-throat carbs all had 8mm threads to attach to the manifold.

I was referring to the wrench size not the thread size. Cute little buggers.

@IaM-Ray posted:

So the other day I was out and all of a sudden I was riding a bucking bronco at 4K it just was not wanting to be smooth running at all then all of a sudden my cruise control idiot light  started to  flash that is what the ecu does when a code appears.  
Read the code P0028 VTT left solenoid.  

I just finished changing it …. It took me a heck of a long time as the bolt that holds the bracket of the sensor is essentially locked behind a piece of the head and would not allow it to be extracted I has to grind away just enough of the brace, which is excessively big in any case so that the bolt head 10 mm can come out.   I then proceeded to take the nut and with a Dremel cut a slice in the top of it so I can use a standard screwdriver to put it in as no socket can reach then the torque spec is something like 14 pounds. I only put a Dab of thread locker blue near the top end, I screwed it down using a short then longer to reach flat head screwdriver to tighten it up.  Wow what a challenge.  I have to say that my Quickjack came in pretty handy to get underneath that car.

I was wondering how much simpler an air cooled car might be at that moment.

Still no premanent solution so I went down the rabbit hole and it took TWO vvt sensors and I even changed the Oil pressure switch on the driver side bank 2... still no resolution. Then, to compound the issue my MAF sensor decided to give up the ghost and the car would not even idle.

So I was finally able to get an appointment with my tech who advised me to unplug the MAF with allowed me to drive the car to Lachute Performance, a near 2 hour drive.  They checked it out got a new MAF sensor and then plugged in a hand held oil pressure guage to confirm proper oiling to the head area,  then we tried a used ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT SUBIE oil pressure sensor and it cured the issue.

So we got a new pressure sensor in there and then was told that they will not install any Non Subie parts at their tech shop as they have found the specs are not in the range of the original subie manu, and they chase problems or have return service calls with jobber parts.  Just saying.

Things you learn...for a subie install

1- in an emergency, try unplugging the MAF , when you clean the MAF use MAF cleaner and not brake cleaner.

2- get original parts it seems the tolerance range in electronics are not what they claim to be.