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Hi all, first time posting here, and I'm starting from scratch knowledge-wise, so apologies in advance if my questions aren't on point to start with.

I'm researching and collecting parts for a 550 build I'm about to start, and looking to get some info on swinging arm transaxle gear ratios. The car will be running a stock 2.0 or 2.2 Subaru motor, on 15" wheels, and I've read different things about changing gear ratios for a better cruising speed, but also to make sure there gaps between gears aren't uncomfortable.

Any guidance on a fairly common and practical set of gear ratios would be appreciated. If there's a better year/model transaxle to start off with that information would be helpful too.

Cheers 👍

Last edited by 550aus
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Not so fast, Ray.

First of all, the Subaru transaxle needs to be converted to 2wd. This can be done fairly easily. Second, you need to figure out swing axle, which Subaru isn't. I don't know of a kit, so it would have to be all custom.

Or, you'd have to fabricate rear IRS and then get custom axles for the Subaru transaxle.

Others can advise of which gear ratios to go with for a Subaru engine with a VW trans.

The Beck folks put Subaru engines in Spyders with a VW swing axle all the time, I'd contact them.

If you use a VW transaxle, you'll need a shortened oil pan for your engine.

Like Ray says .....Try to use the Ruby 5 speed along with the engine. No $500.00 adaptor to but. Starter mounted on top out of the way for exhaust piping plus the 5 speed for a pretty good total reduction gear package.  The trans will have all the sensor pick-up points to feed info to the ECU too. Rear suspension can be set up with coil over shocks and Greg at VMC can help you to some extent with getting the drive axles in. He also has a wealth of information on the cooling system. Also there is OUTfront over in Buena Park Ca. who can help with other drivetrain issues.

Good luck on your build !  I recommend you join up with us here too !

Bruce in Calif.

@550 Phil posted:

IMG_3219Looks like that’s the tranny in my Spyder. It’s great for scooting around but not great on the highway. I never go on the highway in my Spyder so it’s great.

I don't get it. At 3100rpm, you're doing 70 with 195/60R15(24.2" diameter) tires. You're doing 80 at 3550 rpm. My 3.44 with 0.89 is very close to that, maybe 100 rpm less. You're certainly not going to hurt the Subaru at those revs, or a VW if you had one.

They're both a far cry from the 4.12 or 4.37 stock ring and pinion with the 0.89 4th.

I'm building a 3.44/1.93/1.30/1.0 close ratio with a 3.44 final. It will be perfect for mountain roads. I'm in the yard today painting trans cases. Now that I trailer the car, I can have optimal gearing for mountain thrashing.

Last edited by DannyP
@550 Phil posted:

Danny in my Spyder I’m at almost 4000 rpms in 4th at 70 mph.
I’m trying to get to more like 3000 rpms at 70 in the IM. I’d like to take the IM on the highway. Spyder just can’t run on the highway.

Something isn't right.  Gear calculators don't lie.  Either your gearing isn't what you think, your tire height isn't what Danny thinks, or your speedometer or tach  is way off.

@550aus posted:

Hi all, first time posting here, and I'm starting from scratch knowledge-wise, so apologies in advance if my questions aren't on point to start with.

I'm researching and collecting parts for a 550 build I'm about to start, and looking to get some info on swinging arm transaxle gear ratios. The car will be running a stock 2.0 or 2.2 Subaru motor, on 15" wheels, and I've read different things about changing gear ratios for a better cruising speed, but also to make sure there gaps between gears aren't uncomfortable.

Any guidance on a fairly common and practical set of gear ratios would be appreciated. If there's a better year/model transaxle to start off with that information would be helpful too.

Cheers 👍

I ordered two VW transaxles for my projects, both with identical gears: 3.80/2.06/1.26/.93–I.e, stock late Bug ratios, with a 3.44 r&p. Hardened keys, welded 3rd and 4th and superdiff with aftermarket side covers.

the first one went in my TD replica in front of a stock EJ22 rated at 135 hp. The trans works very well with this engine, because its torque curve is really broad. 3000 rpm in 4th is 70 mph.

That trans is IRS.

the more recent version was swing axle, and went in a Spyder behind a 1914 cc Type 1 rated at 120hp.

worked well in that application as well.

Danny and others have built other boxes with smaller gaps between the gears, trying for a better fit with a particular style of driving or mission—like canyon carving. The stock ratios work very well overall when paired with a taller r&p.

.

A gearing story:

When I first got my VS, it was also pretty much undriveable on the freeway — nearly 4000 rpm to do 70.

Some research proved the '3.88' was not at all as advertised (although '3.88' was painted on the outside of the case in two places).

We pulled the engine, put some tape on a tire sidewall, put the stick in 4th, pushed the car down the road one tire rotation, and counted how many times the tranny driveshaft went round. A lot more than it should have for a '3.88', it turned out. Eventually, we tore it down and found, besides a '4.12' r&p, it also had a 0.93 fourth.

Another complicating factor was the Chinese repop speedo said the car was going much faster than it actually was. But, using a GPS app on my phone, a real 70 did come up at nearly 4000 rpm.

Eventually, we subbed in a gearbox with a gen-u-whine 3.88 and a .89 top gear. I still have to do nearly 3400 rpm to hit 70, but my tires are a little smaller (in diameter) than most -— 175/65-15.

I'm hoping to help this a little. I've just gotten some of those spiffy V190 alloy rims and some 175/70 Vredesteins (taller sidewall than previous tires), so revs per mile should drop a bit.

Don't know if this has any bearing on the problems you're experiencing, Phil, but if there's a lesson here, it's that there are a lot of potential sources for error in the gearing game.

And around here, being able to cruise comfortably and quietly at 70 is really the bare minimum for easy freeway motoring. You need to be able to get up to 80-85 pretty easily, too, for occasional merging and passing situations, if nothing else.

I've had this car up to three digits occasionally, and it will get there pretty handily with just a modest 2-liter, and at under 5000, but this is an engine that speaks to you, and what it is saying over 90 is not really repeatable in polite company.

.

@edsnova posted:

I ordered two VW transaxles for my projects, both with identical gears: 3.80/2.06/1.26/.93–I.e, stock late Bug ratios, with a 3.44 r&p. Hardened keys, welded 3rd and 4th and superdiff with aftermarket side covers.

the first one went in my TD replica in front of a stock EJ22 rated at 135 hp. The trans works very well with this engine, because its torque curve is really broad. 3000 rpm in 4th is 70 mph.

That trans is IRS.

the more recent version was swing axle, and went in a Spyder behind a 1914 cc Type 1 rated at 120hp.

worked well in that application as well.

Danny and others have built other boxes with smaller gaps between the gears, trying for a better fit with a particular style of driving or mission—like canyon carving. The stock ratios work very well overall when paired with a taller r&p.

Thanks mate, and to all that have replied, especially seeing as this has obviously been discussed a lot previously. I'm taking it all onboard 👍👍

@chines1 posted:

We worked with Rancho over a decade ago and created a version of their Pro-drag gearbox intended for Subaru EJ253 applications in a spyder.  We called it the "Pro-Suby" and it seems the name has stuck...

Geared as follows:

3.11 1st, 1.93 2nd, 1.22 3rd, 0.82 4th

Thanks for that, I'm going to get in touch with them and see what I'm up for to get something built and sent over here. I'm assuming they'll do a swing axle setup?

"Thanks for that, I'm going to get in touch with them and see what I'm up for to get something built and sent over here. I'm assuming they'll do a swing axle setup?"

I believe they're all swing-axle unless custom ordered.

Nope, swing axle is actually a bit more complicated, unless you get one without axles and tubes installed. If axles are installed, it is larger and heavier and needs to be strapped to a pallet. So shipping would be a lot more than just the trans case/internals alone.

IRS is far more common today, a lot of early Beetles have had pan swaps or IRS brackets welded in.

If it was me, and I was getting a swing, I'd get it shipped without the axles installed. Especially if I was getting it shipped down under. I'd install the axles in my garage before stuffing it in the car.

I’m going to Charlottesville this weekend (where my tools are located) to put new rotors and pads on my Fiat. While I’m there I’m going to try to get mph readings in each gear at 3000 rpms. Then I’ll calculate for the R&P. Hopefully it doesn’t give me 4.12. I won’t be happy. I have a GPS speedometer so hopefully that is accurate. Assuming I should measure the diameter of the rear tire for the calculation?

@550 Phil posted:

I’m going to Charlottesville this weekend (where my tools are located) to put new rotors and pads on my Fiat. While I’m there I’m going to try to get mph readings in each gear at 3000 rpms. Then I’ll calculate for the R&P. Hopefully it doesn’t give me 4.12. I won’t be happy. I have a GPS speedometer so hopefully that is accurate. Assuming I should measure the diameter of the rear tire for the calculation?

You can look up your tires and get an accurate number. Tire rack is good for that.  What are you running on the rear?

If you have limited slip.  Why can't you jack up the rear wheels and manually turn over the engine as many times as it takes to make the wheels turn exactly one revolution and determine the final drive ratio in 4th ?  

Or with no limited slip.  Jack up only one wheel and turn the engine over manually until the one wheel turns exactly two full turns and determine final drive ratio in 4th ?...........Bruce

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