Maybe not a bad idea; it’s always worth it to see what’s wrong with what you have; could be something that’s not catastrophic and by going through it can be worked out and solved.
@LI-Rick posted:I like your guess. I lost a flywheel on an SPG roller crank about 30 years ago. Sounds like “brrrrrp” when you rev it. Depending on how bad it is, crank and flywheel can be redrilled for 11/32 dowel pins.
Losing an SPG must have hurt! What stroke was it? A mechanic friend of mine put 1 in an engine for his brother- what a neat engine that was to drive!
@ALB posted:Losing an SPG must have hurt! What stroke was it? A mechanic friend of mine put 1 in an engine for his brother- what a neat engine that was to drive!
It was an 82mm. It was also pinned and welded. I got it in an engine that was sitting in a guys shed. He said it had been his fathers, and was in a bus. This was around 1992. It had 40 x 35.5 heads with some unknown porting. I tore it down, threw an Engle 130 in it and ran it in a Karmann Ghia. I paid $250 for the motor. As I’m leaving, the guy says I have some carbs that might work, they were his dad’s also. He reaches back into the shed, pulls out a pair of IDA’s and says you can have them for $50! Best deal I ever scored.
@LI-Rick posted:It was an 82mm. It was also pinned and welded. I got it in an engine that was sitting in a guys shed. He said it had been his fathers, and was in a bus. This was around 1992. It had 40 x 35.5 heads with some unknown porting. I tore it down, threw an Engle 130 in it and ran it in a Karmann Ghia. I paid $250 for the motor. As I’m leaving, the guy says I have some carbs that might work, they were his dad’s also. He reaches back into the shed, pulls out a pair of IDA’s and says you can have them for $50! Best deal I ever scored.
So what happened to the roller crank? Did you know to modify the main bearings?
@ALB posted:So what happened to the roller crank? Did you know to modify the main bearings?
I gave the crank away, but if I still had it now, I might try tig welding the end and redrilling it. Back then it was just easier to buy a welded stroker crank and be done with it.
The main bearings were notched to direct a spray of oil onto the rod bearings. I always wondered how well that worked.
Doesn’t appear to be flywheel. Oil came out like metal paste. Tony will do his best to get it back together by the West Coast Cruise.
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Wow, metal paste….catastrophic failure but look at the bright side. You’ll have a killer powerplant after all.
By the way I see you’ll need the new Bus H seal for the compartment. Being foam those tend to disintegrate; the last time I changed mine I doused it in black Flex Seal (which you can find at Home Depot, Walmart, etc). It rubberized it; I believe it will hold together for a longer time. I suggest you do the same when you install the new motor.
What year is your car? The motor looks like a Roland Rascon (RIP) built unit (the one my 2004 has).
@Ryan (formerly) in NorCal posted:Well, here’s what I’ve done so far…
- it’s not the fan. I removed the belt and it still knocks.
- it’s not a simple valve adjustment. I did that and it still knocks, growing fiercer.
- it could be related to my manifold. The right side has some left-right play. But holding it to one side doesn’t appear to “fix” the problem.
- it appears to be in the case.
@Anthony will break it open, diagnose, and fix… but he recommends upgrading the 25k mile engine to a new CB 2110 kit instead, for only a little more in price.
Unfortunately CB has a 12week delay. This would mean missing summer drives! 😞 This can’t be my only option!
But I can get an Aluminum case & kit with similar components from Aircooled Vintage Works in about 2 weeks.
I don’t see anything in our forum about AVW, but they’re all over TheSamba. Any reason I should avoid this option?
updated video:
On that video, apart from the knocking sound it looks like your right intake manifold is not tight and you have an intake leak. As you move the carb the engine response changes.
@Impala posted:Wow, metal paste….catastrophic failure but look at the bright side. You’ll have a killer powerplant after all.
From the looks of that filthy engine bay it could just be 100 lbs of SLO County dirt from the back roads Ryan likes to drive. LOL
This is an engine bay:
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@Robert M posted:From the looks of that filthy engine bay it could just be 100 lbs of SLO County dirt from the back roads Ryan likes to drive. LOL
This is an engine bay:
No kidding!
I actually just finished degreasing and scrubbing out my empty engine bay. It’ll be clean for a little while anyway.
@Ryan (formerly) in NorCal posted:Doesn’t appear to be flywheel. Oil came out like metal paste.
Oh man. I’m sorry. That’s gotta be a blow to morale. Good luck with the rebuild.
Just had to take a practical car down coast rd…
But I was able to fit more passengers.
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@Ryan (formerly) in NorCal- Any update? Was it a rod bearing (or 2)? You said the oil was like paste- what are the lifter bores in the case like? Is the cam gear ok?