Suggestions for a "sissy-mary" engine

OK, just to be clear here, The engine I have has about 90K miles on it and I'm gonna do a rebuild. It's a dinky little 1600cc. I'm not looking for anymore power than it's capable of without going crazy. The engine is out and the guy doing the work on it is doing it for free (well, not actually free, he gets to eat in my restaurant at no charge. - we have a "deal") So, I'm looking for suggestions of things to do while I have the opportunity. I'm going to put a standard Tri Mil exhaust on it. I decided to go with the 36hp shroud even though some suggested against it. (I saw in Hot VW an Engine Builder Showdown that Clyde Berg, CB Performance, Performance Workshop, So. Cal. Performance and others did their engines with that style shroud so I figured it couldn't be that bad)and beside the standard rebuild kit what else should I consider? Any suggestions are appreciated. Remember, I'm just looking for a good ol fashion 1600cc sissy-mary that will give me reliability. Thanks

Hey Mickey...
Just wondering, do you have a web site for your restaurant? Love to check it, if I'm ever near ya.

www.mybistro.com

There's always free coffee (or other "beverages") for speedster owners!!!

Micky: Check with JC Whitney, or any other engine part suppliers for some new jugs and pistons. I bought a set that increased my 1600 to 1680 . I added dual 40mm webers and a pair of zoom tube exhausts. The second day I got a speeding ticket when I did a jack rabbit take-off in a 45mph zone. The cop said I was headed past 70 as I slipped into third gear.

I would tap case for full flow oil filter - and perhaps add oil cooler with thermostat. I'd also look at electronic pointless ignition if ya haven't already done so. Wow, 90k is great for a VW engine as #3 cylinder valves tend to snap off at 50k.

As suggested by Wolf, get the case tapped for full flow oil filtering. Obviously replace all valves and guides on the heads. If possible get your crankshaft counterweighted (if it's in rebuildable shape) or get a new counterweighted one and make sure it's forged. With regards to cylinders and pistons stick to the stock sized ones for longevity or if going larger bore use machine-in ones (not slip-ins) such as 88mms or 90.5 mms maximum. Get your engine components balanced (from the crankshaft pulley going through the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel and clutch assembly (disc and pressure plate).

I agree with Ricardo, his advice is spot on. But really, do yourself a favor and loose the 36hp shroud. The high HP engines you saw running them only run for minutes at a time, and are not driven alot as your car will. If you look at the 2 shrouds side by side, you can see a HUGE difference in the internal fins, ect....

A stock 1600dp motor could eaisly go 150000mi if it's maintained well. I have a 1600 in my beetle that was rebuilt 70000mi ago by the previous owner (and rebuilt meaning lapping valves, and new P/C set), and then i put another 40000mi on the car and it still purrs like a kitten, getting a little tired, but still runs perfect.

Spend the $ on the bottom end like Ricardo suggested, balance rotating assembly, forged counter weighted crank, nice quality pistons/cylinders, and run away from slip-ins; but you could consider a 1641cc (87mm pistons, Mahle), and proper shroud, thermostat, cooling flaps, ALL the stock tin (including under engine), and stock carb, with a good SVDA vacuum advance distributor, setup properlly you'd be blown away how nice they run and how much power they really make.

martin

Mickey....I was checking out your menu at your place...yummmm!!! the brie loaf would be something I would order there... hey I also noticed some Cuban food in the menu, what made you decide on that? ~Esther

Thanks Esther,
We call that Brie Loaf "The best grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup you'll ever have!" The cuban influence comes from my time spent in Tampa. I used to frequent this cuban place in Ybor City, they had awesome food! I did my best to pay tribute to some of those dishes. As in most things on our menu I choose to do them simply out of selfish indulgence, I serve what I like to eat. Ironically we were just written up in our local paper for our Cuban Sandwich, it alwasy nice to get free advertising! Keep the rebuild suggestions coming, I'm going to swing by his place later this week with my list. Thanks

Oh yeah, is it stupid for me to assume that my wrench will know where to tap the case? If I recall I normally see this done on the left side (looking from the back of the car). Or is there a reference for guidance? And what about the filter, will it sit high enough to be out of danger? I've never seen this done on a car, not in person.

Near stock air cooled VW engines last forever. While attending university I drove a 1970 VW beetle, with dual Kardon carbs and a header exhaust system. I bought the VW with 50,000 miles on the odometer and sold it with 115,000 miles on the original motor, with only one valve grind at around 75,000 miles. I adjusted the valves and changed the oil evey 3000 miles....that was it. The Kardons were near trouble free.
Going with an external oil filter and electronic ignition is a good idea.

Go here for full flow technical info.

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=127_2742

And here for the kit:

http://www.geneberg.com/product_info.php?cPath=2745&products_id=480