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According to Gene Berg, motors that spend much time above 6000 rpm need more oil reserve than what a 1 1/2 quart sump offers to avoid oil starvation; hence the reason for their 3 1/2 qt model. Without drains from the left head/valve cover, removing the casting flash and smoothing out the inside of the case oil can take longer than you think to return to the pick up. Dry sumping does sound like the answer.... 

If you have the Berg sump with the long studs and tubes it is old , I ran one back in the 90's, very tough unit. With the newer style I remove the short studs and put bolts in from the top, that way they never pull out. On the engine block it is about impossible to do it with the engine together but worth doing it while freshening it up.The reason I started doing it was exactly the problem you had, bottoming out , in my case at the drag strip.

 

  

Mike McCarthy

Lane:

 

thin-line sump with 6 qts and full flow is barely ok for street use under Kelly Frazer-styled, "spirited driving" (lots of short bursts and spending most of your time over 3,500 in 2'nd and 3'rd with lots of tight curves).

 

If you track it with that set-up, you really have to watch your oil pressure gauge, especially on hard right turns as it pushes all the oil into the left side valve cover and the sump starves.  Suck a few bubbles into the oil line and your oil pressure goes to Calidonia.

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