sump plate leak

Has anyone else experience oil leakage from a CB Performance drain plate on a thin line sump (8 bolt)? I have replaced the gasket w/ a new one, done the gasket sealer, torque down the nuts, replaced the copper washers. Still leaks. I was told double gasket, grease, gasket sealer on the bolts, don't help much. The plate does not appear to be warped. Oil pressure normal. Anyone with a fix?

Bruce

When I've worked on customer engines with a CB thin line sump, I use Orange high temperature Silicone to seal up the plate and so far, no leaks. Spread a 1/8" bead around the circle pattern on the sump plate, (complete the circle around each stud hole) install, and torque the nuts snug but not too tight as they can easily strip. Let the engine sit for about 10 minutes before dumping in the oil.

Bruce, Are you sure where the leak is coming from? Could it be following the stud and not passing the gasket? Also, don't know what cover you are using but the stock stamped steel type get dimpled at each bolt hole and have to be tapped back into flatness sometimes. With the dimples the torque force is placed around each stud first and doesn't compress the gasket evenly.---Good luck!

The sump plate on a CB thinline is a large diameter plate made from thick aluminum. Personally I don't like them as they have no provisions for a drain plug and as with some VW sump plates, you have to remove the retaining nuts to drain the oil and as such, oil tends to go everywhere.

It 's so much easier to remove the drain plug, drain the oil then remove the sump plate.

Larry,
I use the orange Copper for my exhaust, is that different from the orange high temp silicone that you are talking about?

Thanks

Yes, there is an Orange Copper that works wonders on exhaust gaskets and there is an Orange Silicone that is heat rated silicone, that's good for making gaskets such as intake, oil seals, etc.

Thanks for the replys. The silicone I used was the red hi temp rtv. Still leaks. I may have to try the orange if thats better than the red. Oh, Bruce I do believe it is coming from the bolt area.

Thx Bruce

If the case split is un even??

You have one more trick But it means you need the vw stud remover. or some thing simular.

You remove the studs and glue a 400 grit silcone carbide sand paper to flat peace of glass cut just the right size.

Re surface the stump suface by hand in circular honeing motions.

It does work !!!!!! I was taught this trick by the folks at Pelecan Parts. And it also works on leaky oil pumps. I had both.

The leak is from oil seeping down the threads of the studs. Mine does the same thing. It leaves a neat little circle of drops right unter the sump. It only drips about one drop from each stud every few days -- marking its spot, as they say. The solution on mine is to put some thread sealant -- not locktite -- on each stud and around the copper washers before putting the cap nuts back on. I just got in a hurry the last time I changed the oil and forgot to do it.

Oh, and you have to be fairly liberal with the sealant. I use something called Loctite Thread Sealant Stick. I went out to the garage and got it out of my tool kit. Didn't know it was Loctite brand. Sorry for any confusion. This is not the red or blue stuff that locks the nut on. It's in a gluestick-type tube about four inches long and is a white paste.

Here ya go. Most like this locktite just pan down.

http://www.mainelycustombydesign.com/engine_components.html#dipstick
Mainely Custom by Design - Engine Component products

Here's a couple of pictures of the stuff I use. It doesn't cure and harden like the regular Loctite thread locking stuff. I don't think I would want that on the little sump studs. You might break them or just back them out instead of taking off the cap nut. This stuff doesn't harden. It's more like a soft paste that is specifically for sealing threads but not locking on the nut.

Hey Bruce , hope you get this leak fixed , give me a pm I'd like to see your Tub. Cabanaboy

Bruce and anyone interested...

Locktite also makes a "hydraulic fitting sealer". This requires extracting the leaking stud, coating the threads with sealer and reinstaling it, with a 1 hr. dry time.

Removing the stud should be no problem as it is well lubed, right? Just double nut it and go.

Also check your drain cover for casting pits that did not clean up when it was machined....this caused me some grief. Cured it with some J B weld after a xylene clean up...

I'm with Larry J. wishing the thing had a drain plug..

Good Luck...

Leon C.

Regarding fitting these sumps with a drain plug, I can drill, bore, and tap your sump plate for a standard magnetic plug available from AutoZone, Pep Boys, and others for $25 plus shipping. It will be placed on a lathe and bored on center and neatly tapped. By the way, this can also be done with just a proper sized drill and tap, but a couple I have seen done that way were off center and crooked and tended to leak. If you do decide to do it by hand make certain the tap goes in straight up and down, not at some angle....

Of course shipping it to me will put you out of business for a few days, but I can offer next day turnaround from here at the moment. Get it to me today, it is on its way back to you tomorrow....I can also supply the magnetic plug, highly recommended so that we are certain it fits, for another $5.

By the way, I offer this just as assistance to the group, this is not going to be a big money maker for me....if you were standing in my doorway with your sump plate in hand I would be happy to do it for free.....

Jimbo - that's VERY cool of you (and other generous SOCers) to offer your time and skills to help with these kind of projects!!

Thx guys,
I've noticed that the red sealant has slowed the drip, better than b4 but not dry. I'll have to try adding the Loctite or the hydraulic thread sealant on my next oil change. Oh, do these sealants require a clean surface...its awfully hard to keep the threads "oiless". I've heard of people tapping the plate for a drain plug...excellent idea may take the offer in the near future, thx!

Hey Desi, yeh anytime you wanna take a ride up here is fine, or maybe my speedy is running better I'll roll on down ur way. I'll be in Maui the better half of next week.

bruce

Bruce, for that type of leak you will have to remove the studs, clean the studs/area, apply sealant to threads, install wet,wait
and then finish your oil change.
Good luck!