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Here's what I do for customer cars.. If they want a billet plate with an oil drain bung and they don't have a remote filter, I usually try to talk them out of buying the plate. 

If they have a remote filter. when I install the plate I leave out the factory strainer, use one gasket with a thin layer of Threebond 1194, Yamabond or similar sealant (a very thin layer on both sides of the gasket) and I use the copper washers.     Once that plate is on the bottom of the engine, the only reason to remove it is when the engine case is split.

I use a billet plate as well with copper washers, one gasket with a light coat of Permatex copper sealant and a magnetic drain plug. Full flow filter, no screen. Years of use without a problem or a drip.

 

Make sure the washers are copper and not steel. If a magnet sticks to them, they're no good. Same for the drain plug.

When I assembled my engine, I used a small dab of Permatex copper sealant on each stud before installing the stud into the case. When I install the sump gasket, I put a light coat of sealant on each side, install the gasket and sump cover with the nuts finger tight for about 5 minutes and then torque them after 5 minutes.

 

I've never had a leaky sump plate with the billet setup. Installed properly, you shouldn't either. Make sure you get a good sump plate that comes with the cap nut hardware and double-check the washers to ensure they are copper and you should be good to go. I hate oil drops on my driveway and haven't had any in a couple years.

Last edited by Jimmy

The plate "gasket" is no longer made of gasket material, but is cheap paper/cardboard, and oil will leak through if it is not sealed. If using a stock steel sump plate make sure it isn't warped (2 hammers on all the holes will often straighten the plate out), use a sealer on both sides of the gasket, use copper crush washers, don't overtorque the 6mm cap nuts (if you've left out the screen and extra gasket make sure the studs are not too long or the cap nuts will bottom out) and you shouldn't have any problems. A small round magnet (Berg called it a cow magnet and could be bought at a supply store) strapped to the oil intake tube or a round magnet attached to the bottom of the sump plate will take care of any ferrous pieces. I've been told that a source for the drain bolt crush washer is a good parts guy at an automotive store(there should be something from another manufacturer that fits), but haven't checked it out yet. Al

Last edited by ALB
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