super hard clutch,what to do.

here is the deal.i have a new motor and trans.the motor is a 2110cc and the trans is a freeway bull.the clutch is a 200mm hp 1700.the clutch is really hard to press.the machinic that installed the motor and trans said it was the hardedest clutch he had ever seen.(he is a vw macanic)the clutch is so hard after about ten minutes of stop light driving your leg gets tried.my wife cant drive it at all.w2hat can i do.am i missing something.should i go back to a stock clutch.i am not a hard driver.

Blake, there's a lot of reading and a lot of sources for you, if you've never experienced some of this stuff before.
I'd suggest (as I did) that you get a copy of John Muir's book; How to keep your Volkswagen Alive; a Step-By-Step Guide for the Compleat (sic) Idiot.
It's not an indictment -- it's the most valuable resource EVER.
Also, while you're waiting on that to come in, try sites like this one:
http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqindx.htm
It could be as simple as a misaligned disc (if the installer didn't use a clutch alignment tool) or a Bowden tube kink -- but if you got there by upgrading from a stock clutch disc and now you've got problems, I'd ask for a stocker back as the easy answer.
The tranny sounds like it might be built for more than you're ever going to ask for from it, and the clutch only gets you in and out of gear.
If you're not going to be slamming it around, why not get one you know you and your missus can push easily?

i got the kit from a guy that had started the kit,the trans was allready installed,the motor was a crate motor with the clutch already on it.

Blake,
I have a Stage 2 (2100 Lbs.) pressure plate in my spyder. It isn't hard to push at all. However it wasn't always like that. There was a time when my left leg would start shaking and quivering while waiting-out a stop light. So I know the feeling.

My problem (I have a hydraulic clutch system) was I had a 3/4" master cylinder instead of the correct size: 5/8". Not only was the clutch a bear to press, but I was over-stroking the pressure plate fingers to boot. I was lucky I didn't damage them -- many have.

So, if you have a hydraulic system, the wrong size MC may be your stinking fish. Stage 1 (1700 Lbs.) pressure plates are almost standard for guys pushing 2000 cc. Don't worry about it being "too heavy".

Mark

Hi Blake: I have a stage 1, 1700 lb clutch and the pedal effort is only a bit more than stock. I also have the shorter of the 2 different length clutch leaver arms. The longer one will give a bit more travel but will be easier to push. I think the shorter one is 90 or 100mm center to center and the other is about 10mm longer. You probably have an issue with the cable or Bowden tube.

could it be the spring on the through out barring.

I'd start by disconnecting the cable from the arm on the trans -- and see if the cable or pedal are binding. My bet would be that its binding in the bowden tube. With cable off see if the clutch release arm can be moved (it will be hard to move by hand).

KEP 1700LBS Clutch should not be hard to depress at all. I went thru a ton of them from my racing(read High School)days. You have an issue with your bowden tube or something similar. If your not mech inclined take it back to the guy who intalled it and tell him to fix it. If hes a VW guy he knows something is not right and just doesnt want to deal with it.

D

Is the bouden tube and cable housing secured in the tunnel??

Many, Many VW owners have had to cut open the tunnel and weld up a broken tube mounting tab......

Good Luck ...

Leon C.

As Wolfgang mentioned: Start at the source by first backing off the wing nut from the threaded cable end, operate the arm with a deep socket that will fit over the arm and an extension, followed by moving the cable back and forth checking for an obstruction,( bowden tube broke etc) then check for free pedal movement.

I think you have a mechanical mismatch somewhere in your system, maybe a throwout bearing? But besides potential Bowden tube problems - and that CAN cause hard clutch effort - do not overlook the simple stuff. Put a small amount of grease all over the clutch cable. When I installed a new clutch cable I did a number of alignments, including grease. End result was I cut the clutch effort in half!

this is what i did today,i removed the wing nut and check the cable to see if it was moving freely.i regreased the cable and reinstalled.i check the bouden tube and all is good.i think the problem is coming from the spring on the throughout bearing.it is a really strong spring.really hard to get it to move by hand.take a lot of effort.more than it should.is this right.could it be the return spring on the throughout bearing.has anyone ever heard of this.

They will always be hard to depress right at the throwout bearing. The clutch pedal is also a 1 foot lever. Since the tranny is stabbed, it has to be aligned right otherwise you would have a violent vibration. I think it may be in the throwout bearing or the clutch fork mechanisim inside the bell housing. Hav him pull it again. I honestly think he screwed up.

My car was in getting the oil changed and a/c charged and I asked them to take a look at the whole car front to back and especially to see if they could fix up the clutch feel (tight and hard like yours). They greased everything they could get to and its WAYYYY better now. I hope you find out what the problem is.. and nobody tell my wife that mine is better now as thats my excuse for her not to drive it... lol.

James

Most, if not all of this was mentioned up above, but to summarize:

90% of the time, a clutch that's hard to work can be vastly improved by removing the cable, greasing the hell out of it (Molybdnum Grease is my favorite) and replacing it (it's really pretty easy to do this).

Then, make sure that the Bowden tube is adjusted correctly and that the bracket holding the rear (engine side) of the bowden tube is angled correctly to mimic the line of the cable exiting it to the clutch actuator arm.

If that doesn't improve it then it's probably the clutch actuator arm inside of the bell housing, and THAT requires pulling the engine to get at it.

It should be really hard to move the clutch lever on the side of the tranny by hand without some sort of lever assistance. I have a special tool I made (similar to a tool the VW mechanics had years ago) that is an 18" piece of 1/2" ID pipe with a "tooth" on one end. It's positioned in front of the clutch lever pivot point, and catches the arm just below the clutch cable. You then move the bottom of the pipe/lever to the rear and the clutch is disengaged to make adjustments, grease the wingnut, etc. That 18" lever makes moving it pretty easy, whereas just using pliers or an adjustable wrench was usually pretty hard to do.

Gordon,
That's a real good summary. Could you please go back through some of these other threads and summarize? I'm thinking maybe anything over 37 responses, less the hijacks. Your editorial services would be greatly appreciated.