Anyone on here that has done this or knows someone that has ?
I was looking at an AISIN AMR 500 "Roots Type" blower for small engines. I think it would fit on the opposite side of the alternator mount where an A/C compressor would normally go.
See...I'm already looking at ways to pump out more power. I must be nuts !........Bruce
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Bruce, you won't need all the power you already have. You'll be lucky to get any traction as it is.
While I agree with Paul, if you find out anything about it I'm sure there's a bunch of us that would be all ears!
After all, you can never have too much power...
Yes, please keep us all informed of what you find out.
I wouldn't even consider doing this until I've driven the car for a while. I drove a turbo'ed car a while back and spun it out easily coming out of a corner when the turbo finally came up to speed, then it was way too much to control the turn. In a straight line I absolutely loved the severe power surge and thats what got me thinking about blowers ! Not much to do right now so I might as well do some homework on nutty stuff like this.. Greg says it will be 3 more weeks (I think more than that) before he gets anything started for me.............Bruce
I think that little Aisin one is cute and more suitable for like a 1.5. Maybe put one on each bank of a 2.5.
There are SC roots kits for Subies.
And the inevitable How-To forums.
But all-in-all I suspect there's a reason so few people do it this way. I think if you want boost you just buy an STi motor and plumb the turbo to your own liking.
Thanks for that lead Ed.............Bruce
Ed, I looked into doing it and my race shop Subie guys kept telling me, we can do it but for what it's worth let us do a turbo set up and you'll have oodles of power for a lot less. I think Marty has a good set up with around 240hp and a bit less, turbo lag, kick making it a bit more N/A like ...
if you could do a 3.0L subie 6 it would be 50lbs more but then you save 50lbs in turbo, intercoolers etc etc... it would be a bomb as it give about 240 n/a
EZ30D: 2999CC DOHC, 245ps (180 kW) @6600 rpm, 297Nm@4200 rpm. Bore 89.2 mm, Stroke 80 mm. Compression 10.7:1. This version had three exhaust ports per head, a drive-by-wire throttle, a black plastic intake manifold, VVL and AVCS. It was available in manual and automatic unlike the old EZ30D. Found in the 2003–2009 Legacy 3.0R, Outback 3.0R and 2006–2007 Tribeca Engine horsepower reported as 250 hp, in Subaru of America publications in 2005. It made its debut in the 2005 USDM model year.
IaM-Ray posted:Ed, I looked into doing it and my race shop Subie guys kept telling me, we can do it but for what it's worth let us do a turbo set up and you'll have oodles of power for a lot less. I think Marty has a good set up with around 240hp and a bit less, turbo lag, kick making it a bit more N/A like ...
if you could do a 3.0L subie 6 it would be 50lbs more but then you save 50lbs in turbo, intercoolers etc etc... it would be a bomb as it give about 240 n/a
EZ30D: 2999CC DOHC, 245ps (180 kW) @6600 rpm, 297Nm@4200 rpm. Bore 89.2 mm, Stroke 80 mm. Compression 10.7:1. This version had three exhaust ports per head, a drive-by-wire throttle, a black plastic intake manifold, VVL and AVCS. It was available in manual and automatic unlike the old EZ30D. Found in the 2003–2009 Legacy 3.0R, Outback 3.0R and 2006–2007 Tribeca Engine horsepower reported as 250 hp, in Subaru of America publications in 2005. It made its debut in the 2005 USDM model year.
This is my my Subie:
The second generation of the EJ255 is used in the 2006-2008 WRX, the 2007+ Legacy, and the 2006+ Forester. It uses a slightly different cylinder block and cylinder heads.
JDM Forester STI used VF41 turbocharger, WRX III - VF52 (0.92 bars). The Legacy GT up to 2009 used VH46 (0.96 bars, 250 hp at 6000 rpm). After 2009, the Legacy GT engine uses VH46 turbocharger produced 0.82 bars and 265 hp.
We deleted the CAT in the UP pipe to the turbo and replaced with Grimm Speed which adds another 10-15hp.
@Marty Grzynkowicz 200 in subie is fun but 270 is more fun. I have to checkout the supercharger. I hope it fits under the hood 👍😇
I found out that the ASIN 500 super charger is only good up to 2.2 ltd engines. Too bad, I think it would've fit nicely right next to the alt..........Bruce
aircooled posted:I found out that the ASIN 500 super charger is only good up to 2.2 ltd engines. Too bad, I think it would've fit nicely right next to the alt..........Bruce
Bruce,
You may want to read Ed's comment above.
Here's a picture of one that will work (Ed linked us to it):
Ed said:
edsnova posted:I think that little Aisin one is cute and more suitable for like a 1.5. Maybe put one on each bank of a 2.5.
There are SC roots kits for Subies.
And the inevitable How-To forums.
But all-in-all I suspect there's a reason so few people do it this way. I think if you want boost you just buy an STi motor and plumb the turbo to your own liking.
Everything you'd need...
FWIW I think it's absolute insanity to stuff much more than 200 foot-pounds in these things unless both the suspension and the driver have been very upgraded.
Also it's too easy to get too much power for the chassis. Much harder (and more rewarding) to make a well-balanced package.
X2 what Ed said. Unless you have the chassis and brakes to handle the power it's a waste of $$$$ and it will be less enjoyable to drive.
FWIW, Stay away from the Sprintex. I upgraded a 2005 Mini-Cooper S with the kit Sprintex offered and I had 4 of their SC units go bad. They replaced each unit without much fuss but the labor to swap the SC out in a Mini Cooper is large so I had to either do it myself, 12-15 hours or pay $1200.00 to the shop each time which Sprintex would not cover. I also had to increase the injector size, install and larger intercooler and have the ECU remapped to get the car set up correctly. I did have a 280HP at the front wheels which was a hoot but man the cost was high and the end product was fragile. Sprintex may have a better SC product now but I would do your research first.
Jimmy...I talked to an owner of one on a Subaru. He's on his 2nd one now. He said that it's a snap to R & I but still, it's the idea that you have to do it even once. He thinks that either the quality of the material or the tolerances are bad. I have to say that it is a nice and clean installation but the price and the reputation are not...........Bruce
Not sure how Sprintex is in business. I guess they continually find new unsuspecting customers. Their kits a very pricey, maybe to cover the replacement S/Cer's they will be sending out. LOL.. It would definitely be easier to swap out the unit on a Subaru installation compared to the Mini Cooper, the entire front clip of the car must be removed along with the radiator and alternator. I had my Mini 30 days and then took the front end of the car off to swap in the Sprintex. My wife was looking at me sideways..Lol.
edsnova posted:FWIW I think it's absolute insanity to stuff much more than 200 foot-pounds in these things unless both the suspension and the driver have been very upgraded.
Also it's too easy to get too much power for the chassis. Much harder (and more rewarding) to make a well-balanced package.
Marty Grzynkowicz posted:X2 what Ed said. Unless you have the chassis and brakes to handle the power it's a waste of $$$$ and it will be less enjoyable to drive.
@aircooled (Bruce) isn't that guy, gentlemen. The dude just polished a Subaru transaxle, and he's waiting for the first IRS Spyder Greg's ever made. He's been looking at A-arm front suspensions. I doubt he's going to cheap out on brakes.
It's valid to point out (I guess), but nobody tells Marty or Bob Carley they've got "too much". We live in a world with 700+ hp Mustangs. Part of being a car-guy is wanting at least a little bit more.
"It's valid to point out (I guess), but nobody tells Marty or Bob Carley they've got "too much". We live in a world with 700+ hp Mustangs. Part of being a car-guy is wanting at least a little bit more."
Amen, Stan. Henry did tell me of a Suby powered IM that is making around 350 hp, so that has Marty and me beat. It all comes down to the overall build: how stable it is at speed, and how it is engineered to not go completely squirrelly when you hit the gas.
Nice, fat wheels and tires on the rear help.
To paraphrase Mel Brooks, 'It's good to have more power'. 
Guys, that's not out of line (money wise) for an aftermarket supercharger kit. A supercharger for the 4 liter Toyota V6 (later 4Runner and FJ Cruiser) is up around $5900. Ya gotta pay to play...
Stan said it best-
"Part of being a car-guy is (always) wanting at least a little bit more."
I have no problem with linear acceleration with a N/A engine. It can get unmanageable.
The issue I have is mostly when the jets get turned, when the throttle becomes more of a switch then no matter what you do you have to hang on for dear life. It is a cool feeling but it feels more like a take off of a jet engine and the rear end goes loose.
Case in point, Tomm lost his IM in wet weather, he has 350hp plus with an Audi 1.8T engine blown out and chipped with big turbo, big injectors etc etc.
Bob you have a lot of power and your power curve is N/A so you could lose it but it won't come on like your driving a rocket ship or lighting a fire cracker under your ....
@IaM-Ray I agree. I drive a chipped dual turbo as my daily and fun factor is for sure very high. Rocket and hold on is good description. On super light car you need to learn how to drive them.
My normal aspirated Suby can use a little more but how much more i a good question. Someone mentioned matching it with chassis and brake would be good start for sure.
I think we can agree that more power is good thing as long as balance is still retained.
Bruce, there is no need to boost a Spyder. I know I'm a little late but I've been busy lately.
I know Greg is building you a special chassis with IRS(and people this is NOT the same as a Bug IRS), but is he also getting rid of the front beam? The beam is your limiting factor.
The car is smaller and lighter than any Speedster(except that one with an aluminum frame). Others have spoken and I agree with them, namely Ed and Marty. A balanced car is better than one with too much power. Brakes, handling, and how the car behaves over bumps(especially variations in the road) are all as important as gobs of power.
Bob, Marty, and Tom all have the 911 suspension in their IMs along with that beautiful frame Henry makes. Tried and proven.
Your car will be a guess at best as to handling when you first get it. This is over 40,000 miles of seat-time in a Spyder talking, some of it at and over the limit. Part of that limit is tires, as you can't get as much stick as the 911 IM has. Trust me on this, the life you save may be your own.
Anything more than 200hp is a fool's errand in a Spyder. 170-180 is just right IMHO.
Thanks Danny...I have sort of talked myself out of it anyway. Maybe later if I get a hair in my _ _ _ . Theres a friend of mine that has a 911 who does 6.9 sec. in the 1/8 mile here at Irwindale. I'd like to punish him once in a while and shut him up. Maybe I'll bring up my Manx from Mexico and start a new project just for the strip. At age 77 you'd think I'd gotten it out of my system but almost every Thursday night I'm sitting on the bench watching the lights and practicing my reaction time. Sometimes I enter my Honda Element or my GMC Canyon to get a little real feel. ha ha. They have a drifting corral also and I'm contemplating putting the Canyon in there when the first set of tires are close to replacement. That ought to be a Hoot too.......Bruce
Danny....I'm looking at Vredestein Sportrax 5 summer tires. What do you think ? However, I can't seem to find any in the size I want. 205/65R15 and 175/65R15.
I’m playing with this brand and starting to test the limits 😎
What is it ?......bruce
@aircooled in case your asking what brand the tire was
its toyo r888r summer tire so far it’s been good
gardie
aircooled posted:Thanks Danny...I have sort of talked myself out of it anyway. Maybe later if I get a hair in my _ _ _ . Theres a friend of mine that has a 911 who does 6.9 sec. in the 1/8 mile here at Irwindale. I'd like to punish him once in a while and shut him up. Maybe I'll bring up my Manx from Mexico and start a new project just for the strip. At age 77 you'd think I'd gotten it out of my system but almost every Thursday night I'm sitting on the bench watching the lights and practicing my reaction time. Sometimes I enter my Honda Element or my GMC Canyon to get a little real feel. ha ha. They have a drifting corral also and I'm contemplating putting the Canyon in there when the first set of tires are close to replacement. That ought to be a Hoot too.......Bruce
Have Pat Downs race him. His fastest time with his NA non-turbo bug is 5.901 seconds.
5.901 ...please tell me that was in an 1/8 run. I crewed with a B' Econo Dragster normally aspirated 710 HP best 1/4 run was 7.12 @189 mph
Alan Merklin posted:5.901 ...please tell me that was in an 1/8 run. I crewed with a B' Econo Dragster normally aspirated 710 HP best 1/4 run was 7.12 @189 mph
Yes, that was in the 1/8th mile. His 1/4 mile time, the last I asked, was 9.43. That's with all of the Pro Stock requirements being followed such as carburetors, no power adders, weight requirements etc.
A normal Beck type Spyder with an N/A Suby 2.5 @200 horses should give your 911 friend a run for his money. 1500 pounds plus the driver is 1700. With a good differential and the right gearing should get you into the 12s on the quarter mile. Mid 8s on the eighth.
That's a fast ride even by modern standards.
Of course, to truly spank a sub-seven second eighth mile car you'll need to specialize. Turbo'd Suby and some massaging of the 'puter, pipes, etc. You'd need about 350 horses to get the ET you're targeting. I wouldn't waste a Spyder (or a 911) on that kind of mission; better to cage a Manx and boost it.
A good chuckle for me ! Thanks Ed ! You said pretty much all there is say. The Manx would be my choice too. There's a guy with a blue Manx that shows up once in a while who smokes my friend's 911. That always gets a cheer or two !
Two weeks ago there was a guy with a brand new 650HP Mustang who went heads up with a pro gas VW. The Mustang finished first on the first round but the second round the VW did. Their reaction times were within .02 . (Mustang had the lowest) That race had everyone standing. Fun Night ! I'm lucky to be so close to the Drag strip. (2 miles) and it's only $10.00 to get in. $20 if you want to race.........Bruce
It's been over 20 years since I put my car on a drag strip. You can damn well bet that if I lived 2 miles from one I'd be there more frequently.
About those Toyo tires: 195/50 15 or 205/50 15. They're OK for the track or strip, but might look a little funny going down the street on a Spyder. 205 is way too wide in the front.....and the tires are pretty short height-wise.
As to the Vred Sportracs, I'm looking for 185/65 15 and 205/60 15. The 205/65/15 is a little tall for the back of a Spyder. 195/60 or 205/60 are good rear choices.
DannyP posted:About those Toyo tires: 195/50 15 or 205/50 15. They're OK for the track or strip, but might look a little funny going down the street on a Spyder. 205 is way too wide in the front.....and the tires are pretty short height-wise.
As to the Vred Sportracs, I'm looking for 185/65 15 and 205/60 15. The 205/65/15 is a little tall for the back of a Spyder. 195/60 or 205/60 are good rear choices.
Danny.....Quatro Tires in Montreal still stocks Vred 195 60 /15'5 for $98. CAD but shows no 185 65 / 15 today.
your correct they are 205 /225 x45 x16 installed on wide body. The correct size would need to be bought for the 550.
Compared to my conti they offer smooth ride and grip is better. The Suby is playing in the twisty road
@David Stroud IM Roadster D There is a Vred distributor in Northern New Jersey that I've got to call. US-purchased tires have got to be stickier than those cold Canadian ones LOL!
Hey Bruce I had a brain wave on the way home today: NOS.
